Rough warm up and idle SM#'s inside

[Hardway]

I just got my Scanmaster unit the other day and pulled the numbers off of my TTA. When it is cold or has just sat over night I go to start it up it starts up and surges up to 2K rpm then it will drop to 1K, then up to 2K again, then start dropping down to 500 rpm and surge back. It will do this many times and usually die once or twice until it warms up. I have to feather the pedal a few times to keep it from dying. The car is all stock, has 198K miles, and runs strong around town and even better on the highway, but it has a rough idle which I have heard is normal for these cars to an extent. How rough should it be?

Here is what I have done so far, full tune up with MSD wires, NGK TR5 plugs, new AC Delco 02 sensor, new ACD IAC, cleaned out the intercooler, replaced all the vaccum lines, put on an Accufab AFPR set static PSI to 40, put a new ES trans mount on it, new ACD coil pack, and ACD new ignition module. I did the IAC reset procedure the other day and the TPS is set at .44 at idle. I checked my fuel pressure and it is not dropping even after 5mins so I believe I do not have any injector leaks. Here are my Scanmaster #'s

O2 113-768-126-843 (they are all over the place at idle, with it rev'd up to 1.5K rpm it reads 76-85.)

AF 07
L8 38-41
Bat 14.3
Int 140
BL 150
Clt 154
r 825-850
TPS .44
IAC 44 (I know this high, how do I lower it?)
_
I I AL 00

I am still new to the world of self diagnosing/tuning so any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Quiky One]

You're BLM and INT are high. That means you computer is compensating for a lean condition. What chip do you have? TurboTweak Home if you don't already have one. His chip is really smooth at idle and fixes a lot of little issues.

Jason

 

[TTA850]

put on an Accufab AFPR set static PSI to 40

Int 140
BL 150

Sounds like you have a vaccum leak, that'll cause the idle to hunt and cause your high BL and INT numbers. Also your fuel pressure setting is a little low, alot of chips are calibrated for between 43 and 45psi static pressure.

Steve

 

[Hardway]

It has a stock chip in it and stock injectors. I will try turning the pressure up a little today. And see if that makes a difference and I will pull my Int and BL #'s again. I agree with you TTA850, it would seem like a I still have a leak somwhere but I can not find any vacuum leaks and I made sure all my new hoses were good and tight. Is there a paticular line or area that is prone to leaks? On the passenger side valve cover there is a little sensor mounted and I port with a clip over it but not hose going to it. When I got the car I replace the hose going to the other port with no clip over it. Is there supposed to be something where the clip is? Should I consider replacing the stock chip even though I have not made any modifications yet?

 

[Quiky One]

Replace the chip. You will wonder why you didnt do it sooner. The best $85 mod you can make. The car will idle better and have better throttle response.

Jason

 

[Scott89TTA]

Replace the chip. You will wonder why you didnt do it sooner. The best $85 mod you can make. The car will idle better and have better throttle response.

Jason

Like Jason said...get a stock 93 octane chip from Eric Marshal at turbotweak.com you will not be sorry. My car did pretty much the same thing untill it warmed up real good but after the 93 chip it all cleared up and runs great. It starts up and idles smooth right from the start. oh and change you thermostat to the 165 deg. as well...the chip requires one...turns the electric fans on earlier also.

-Scott

 

[Hardway]

I went out and turned up the fuel pressure to 43psi with the vaccum pulled off. It does seem to have better throttle response but I did not get a chance to drive it since I am working on a project. Here are the new numbers with the car warmed up and idling at 700 rpm.

02 179-224-719 (still all over the place, is this normal?)

AF 05
LB 34-36
Int 129-134
BL 150
Clt 170
Ats 75
r 800
TPS .44
IAC 36

Do I need to reset my IAC again to get the IAC number lower? I will look in to ordering a octane 93 chip from turbo tweak this week and get a 165 TS. I have spent a lot of money on this car so far and I would like to resolve as much as I can at this point.

 

[Quiky One]

Yes, the o2's are normal.

Jason

 

[Scott89TTA]

I went out and turned up the fuel pressure to 43psi with the vaccum pulled off. It does seem to have better throttle response but I did not get a chance to drive it since I am working on a project. Here are the new numbers with the car warmed up and idling at 700 rpm.

02 179-224-719 (still all over the place, is this normal?)

AF 05
LB 34-36
Int 129-134
BL 150
Clt 170
Ats 75
r 800
TPS .44
IAC 36

Do I need to reset my IAC again to get the IAC number lower? I will look in to ordering a octane 93 chip from turbo tweak this week and get a 165 TS. I have spent a lot of money on this car so far and I would like to resolve as much as I can at this point.

36 on the IAC isn't bad but you can get it down to 18 or 20 if you play with it, .44 is good for the TPS. You will have to go back and fourth on the IAC/TPS and the numbers will slowly come down. When you turn down the IAC the TPS will creep up...bump it down and the IAC will come up a little. It just takes a few trys and can be a PITA but you will get it. Make sure you are in closed loop while setting also...the little light on the SM will stop blinking when you are in closed loop.

-Scott

 

[Hardway]

Okay, it is good to know my numbers are looking better. I will try doing the IAC reset procedure this weekend. I drove the car to work and to class this evening and it is definitely running better, still idles rough but not as bad and starts easier. I could tell when I got on it I think I still have a vac leak somewhere when I put the ar under boost. My boost levels are not as high so I need to double check everything and get a real boost gauge as well. I will keep working on it but I think you guys have put me on the right path. Thank you everyone for all your help.

 

[Quiky One]

Do you get any knock?

Jason

 

[Hardway]

I don't think I am getting any knock. I got on it really good driving home last night and the boost gauge read a high of around 13 psi. I know the factory gauge is not very accurate but the car felt great and never let up till I eased off the pedal. I did not hear any knocking even at the highest RPM and boost. Went from about 30 to 90mph in no time flat.

 

[Quiky One]

Did the scanmaster read anything?

Jason

 

[Hardway]

I did not have it in the car with me. I will pull some new numbers this weekend and post them. The car is smoothing out some more at idle and I don't think it can get much better. Some new numbers will tell the story.

 

[Scott89TTA]

I don't think I am getting any knock. I got on it really good driving home last night and the boost gauge read a high of around 13 psi. I know the factory gauge is not very accurate but the car felt great and never let up till I eased off the pedal. I did not hear any knocking even at the highest RPM and boost. Went from about 30 to 90mph in no time flat.

Did the scanmaster read anything?

Jason

I did not have it in the car with me. I will pull some new numbers this weekend and post them. The car is smoothing out some more at idle and I don't think it can get much better. Some new numbers will tell the story.

You will not here knock unless it is extremely high and in that case it is way too late. You need get the Scanmaster permanently mounted in the car and keep an eye on the "Retard Degrees" numbers on the right...that is "knock". Go out and make a hard WOT run in a safe area and if you get knock you will see numbers in this spot...hit the "recall" button and it will display the highest level of knock (if any) during the WOT run. You proabably aren't getting any knock at 13 psi...the stock boost gauge will be pretty close...it really isn't that bad. You should start seeing some knock around 17 psi and up in most cases with a mostly stock car on pump gas.