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Runs at 2000 for 2-4 sec, then Stalls-After rebuild!

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OldGrayII

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OK, did a Mini Rebuild, Heads-Timing Chain, Blueprinted front cover, put everything back together meticulously as always primined the rail, and fired it up-Shoots to 2300-IMEDIATLY, then stalls, THATS IT, EVERYTIME! All the numbers on Scanmaster look good (Turbolink won't work for me now either, ARGG!), Doublechecked the Cam Sensor-Perfect-pulled all the plugs, look rich but thier all firing! Un-plugged the Mass-Air (was good before) and it seems like it will stay running, although only at 3500rpm, way to high obviously so I shut it down!!

Ideas?? Almost feels like a MASSIVE vacuum leak!!!
 
Did you forget to plug in the MAF?Revs real high, yea, I'd agree with vacuum leak.
 
Not trying to be a Nimrod here at all...You need fuel, you need air and you need spark. If you have all of these, then I'd start searching for the vacuum leak.
HTH
Jim
 
My car does the exact thing you are talking about every time I disconnect the power to the computer. It surges to 2000 and then wants to stall. I think nothing is wrong and once the computer orients itself it will be fine. But it will have a hard time orienting itself without a MAF
 
I had this problem about a month ago.. One of the leads on my chip became brittle and eventually broke. Try a different chip.. HTH


Mike Banas
87GN
 
Sounds like a massive air leak. When this happened to my (twice now) after a rebuild, I had forgot to:
First time I forgot to attach the MAF pipe to the turbo :rolleyes:

Second time, I forgot to tighten down the screws holding the vacuum block on the throttle body, they were there, just not tight yet. :rolleyes:

Look for something in the intake system between the MAF and the throttle body that may have forgotten to get connected or tightened.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys, my buddy canme over late last night, he mentioned th same things, we looked over everything with a fine tooth comb, no holes in mass air pipe, turbo to throttle body is leak-free, and its still the same, I guess we'll start Swapping parts next, BUT-before I took it apart it was perfect, hmmm......
 
One thing, I noticed shortly after I bought this car, when I changed out the stock chip, that it had GM Re-Manufactured computer, that I belive is the reason my Turbolink won't work, whereas the POS Scanmaster works perfect! Could the computer have somehow gotten Zapped??? Strange, but I guess possible? I be swapping that out with a known good one hopefully tonight.
 
One other thing, my Turbolink works on any other Buick perfectly! Just NOT my car!!
 
One more hint, although all signs seem to point to Vacuum, it smells rich as hell for the few seconds that it does run, and the new plugs were BLACK when I pulled em!
 
Is it getting fuel? It sounds like my car when I'm running outta gas... no joke.. Maybe it is priming the injectors but the pump isn't running...

ks
 
Thanks, but I CAN sort of keep it running if I keep pumping the throttle, but the Plugs are BLACK and it smells VERY rich!
 
By the way it holds good pressure, always around 40#, and dosent drop.
 
Do the paperclip/short-wire method of code getting....does it give you a code 13? Just saw a car here recently that had your described problems and the O2 circuit was u/s...owner tracing/replacing wires now.
Keep us posted,
Jim
 
Good Point, one quest. - How many flashes = a 13? Somebody here ha a car with the same symptoms and the timing chain was a Tooth off :eek:
 
The SES light will flash a 12 [normal] by blinking once, then twice. It'll do this 3 times in a row, THEN give you the rest of the codes...a 13 will obviously then be a single flash, followed by three more.
Jim
 
OK then, so it looks like its either:

1. New "Timing Chain" off a tooth - HIGHLY DOUBT as I had the dots lined up perfect and the Balancer Slid on directy on the 0 mark. Will double check with Standard Timing light.

2. "Bad Computer", somehow got zapped? It is a GM Remanufactured, and like I said above, the ONLY scan tool I can use with it is the Snap-On, Turbolink does not work (works perfect on OTHER buicks).

3. "IAC" simply needs Re-Setting?? Would this cause a NO-Idle at all situation??

4. Would the Crank Sensor somehow not clearanced correctly cause these syptoms?

Thanks in Advance!!
 
Double check the connectors on the ECM. Mine was pulled at a angle. I pushed it in and all my problems disappeared.
 
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