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Ruptured brake line

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87gninpa

Active Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2003
Messages
2,414
Finally got the car back together after rebuilding the front end, started her up and went to put it in reverse and the brake pedal went right to the floor. Smelled brake fluid and right under the drivers door was a huge puddle...

Anyway, the line from the prop valve to the rear has a hole in it, planning on just getting the pre-bent ss line from Classic Tube but was wondering is it just one solid piece from the valve all the way to the rear hose? Anything I should know as far as routing the new hose before I get into it?
 
That line is one piece with correct fittings. make sure wheel cylinders open. upgrade to bigger ones if bleeders dont open. I would just get the kit and get the rear braided brake hose as well.
 
Hope I dont have trouble getting fluid back to the cylinders. Do they also sell the two lines from the rear hose to the cylinders? Might as well replace everything from the prop valve back if Im going to do it. Strangely, the front lines look good so no reason to touch them at the moment.
 
Hope I dont have trouble getting fluid back to the cylinders. Do they also sell the two lines from the rear hose to the cylinders? Might as well replace everything from the prop valve back if Im going to do it. Strangely, the front lines look good so no reason to touch them at the moment.

They sell what ever line you need. Call classic. There is a guy that works there that has a Gn. Upgrade that rubber hose while your there. Bleeding should be no problem
 
I would buy the whole kit. I bought the axel lines and the master cylinder lines a couple of years ago from Classic tube- Tim is his name btw. I wound up chasing line from the rubber hose to the proportion valve. Its a bitch to bend the line that goes from about where the fuel filter is to the ruber hose on the rear.
 
Yea, going to just get the whole kit. Got under the car today and disconnected all of the hold-downs and the line going to the rear brake hose. The line going into the prop valve didnt want top budge so I just soaked it and going to let it sit for a day or so. How am I supposed to get the new line in? Even with the old one disconnected I have no idea how to get it out in one piece.
 
After yousoak it try the flare wrench. If that doesn't work. Cut thebrake line and use a deep socket to get it out. I had to cut the rubber hose out in the back it was soo rusted.
 
Thats what I was thinking, cut the line and get a socket on it. Funny, the rear brake line fitting came right out, thought that would be rusted solid.

The brass block on the rear brake line (that holds the lines going across the axle), does that attach to anything? Mine just floating over the axle.

Also, for anyone that put the line from the prop valve to the rear rubber line in the car in one piece, whats the best way to get it in?
 
Couldnt find an exact answer, does the complete kit come with the 2 axle lines? Also, since the car will never see weather again, is there any problem with just getting the OEM steel lines from Classic rather that Stainless? Just thinking if I have to persuade the long rear line in place it might be a bit easier with aluminized steel.
 
I replaced mine with two sections and an adapter to the prop valve from the parts store. I'm not sure you can get a one-piece line in without lifting the body.
 
Get the stainless. It will keep the brake system cleaner. Regular brake line is copper lined inside. The copper wears off the line and contaminates the system
 
Get the whole Kit. It comes with the rear axle lines. The brass block on the rubber hose bolts into the differential . The line from the Distribution block to the rubber hose should be two pieces. If it comes in one piece I don't think you can get it on unless the frame is off.
My stock piece I took off had a connector from the rubber hose to about where the fuel filter was. that piece has to make some sharp turns to get into that rear corner of the car.
 
Got the line out in one piece this morning, it was one long piece from the hose to the prop valve. Just had to unbolt the trans crossmember and snake it out. Would be nice if the new one comes in two pieces though. Going to order from Gbody today. Thanks for all the help.
 
I did the axle lines and both front's last year w/the kit from Classic Tube. Got the SS cause the diff in $ between that and the regular was minimal.
I initially only wanted the DF line as that was what went, but I'm glad I got the kit cause as I replaced a line, another one failed. They are close to me so I was
able to drive up and get it.

Which brings me to today when I went to pull the Regal into the garage for another go at the Front Suspension. Heard a pop and lost break pressure.
Well it looks like I'm in the same boat. Either that line off the prop valve now has a hole at the fitting where it connects to the hose in the back or the hose does.

This was one line I didn't do when I did the others last fall as I dreaded it.

Please post up how you made out. Called my shop and they won't do it so I'm going to have to go in myself.
 
I got the line in the car last Saturday in one piece, wasnt bad at all. Just have to "roll" the back section in first and then the rest just falls into place in the frame rail. You will have to unbolt the trans crossmember to get the line in/out but no big deal. Definitely do-able with the body on the frame and everything else in tact.

Still havent bled the lines yet, just have all the connections done and filled the master with fluid. Did that so I can see if there are any obvious leaks before I start bleeding. Hoping everythings OK.
 
Ok thanx, sounds easy enough. Couple of questions.

Did you run the front of the pipe into the frame first then "roll" the back-end in?
Is this transmission cross-member holding up the transmission and do I have to do anything w/the transmission to get this cross-member out?

I'm sure all might be self explanatory once I crawl under there but I don't like surprises and like to be all set when I go?
 
The line comes with two "shipping bends" in it so its much smaller length-wise and easier to work with at first. I got the rear section in first, then un-bent the line under the car along the frame rail.

As far as the crossmember, just unbolt the two bolts holding it to the frame on the drivers side and jack up the crossmember itself to slide the line in (no need to remove the whole thing). No need to jack the actual transmission either, the mount holds it to the crossmember so its not going anywhere. Like you said, self-explanatory once you're under there.
 
Checked on the car this morning and it looks like the fitting going into the prop valve is leaking a tiny bit (about a quarter size puddle over the past 3 days). Cant tighten the fitting anymore, what else can I do here? Remove it and use thread sealant?
 
I always use some red sealant on the brakelines but it also helps to have good treads in there too.
 
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