My $.02...
The water didn't stop at the roof...
Look in the areas behind the kick panels, the qtr window areas, and the bottom of the qtrs near the back of the trunk.
Also, look at the body mount areas...
Could be, the entire car is a crusher candidate.
Should the majority of the problems be confined to the roof, whack that sucker off, and put a HT roof on it. That's not a difficult job.
Making repairs to the current roof is effective ONLY if 100% of the rust is removed. Miss some, and it's coming back... GUARANTEED!!
![Mad :mad: :mad:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
[In the case of the double panelled areas, there's NO WAY to be sure the rust has been removed].The shop guy knows this, and is covering his a$$, so when you bring it back for problems, he's covered from the $$ standpoint.
As far as repair costs are concerned.. Most body shops want ONLY the "quicky" jobs. [IE: wrecks] Bolt on the new, slap some paint on it, and it's gone. Sitting there, cutting out the rust, then cutting out the repair panels, then doing the welding, body working, is actually doing the job twice.
Labor at $35-55/hr, paint at over $150.00/gallon. [Some at near $400/gallon!], all adds to the cost.
Could be, they don't want the job, and rather than totally pi$$ U off, they shot U a price that exceeds the value of the car
In the FWIW dept:
My bud's streetrod shop is at $56/hr, for "custom" body work, such as repairs like this. A "done correctly" paint job, with minimal repairs is 15K...Sure, it's show quality, but why do it 1/2 azzed??
I'm "mr picky", so some of the above is opinion only.
![Big Grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)