scanmaster 2/translator+/low boost

[trading t/a]

I have a few questions.... At idle it says my AF is 6 to 1, then i guve it some gas and it goes to 14 to 1. anyone else have this problem? Also I need to find out where to connect the white and grey wires(spark adj.) of the translator+. I couldn't find the white and grey wire they said to connect, I opened the harness for the coil and there were two whites and two grays(with red stripe). anyone know where to connect them to?

For some reason I cant get anymore than 10 psi, iadjusted the rod and get 10-12psi what could cause this?

 

[TNTTA]

Trading T/A,There are two wires from the Translator + one is white and one is grey.In the harness going to the coil pack there will be a white wire closest to the firewall this is where you want to connect these wires.Cut the white wire closet to the firewall and splice the white wire from the Translator + to the wire coming in the harness from the ecm.The grey will connect to the wire going to the coil pack.Are you using an extender chip?If so your AF on the scanmaster will read half value.Also the extender chip has a valet mode which will limit the power of the car such as low boost .If this is the case just disable it.Correct me someone if I'm wrong .Hope this helps.WES

 

[Razor]

The MAF will/should read about 6 at idle and go up as the air threw it increases..until it hits 255..with the translator plus and extender chip you can/will drop these values in half.

Boost has nothing to do with the translator..I always say..dont change a dam thing till eveything is/has been working 100 percent..else you'll chase your tail forever..these cars can sometimes be finiky as hell.....

Fix your boost and get the car working correctly..then **** with the electronics...words of the wise..

HTH

Julio

 

[trading t/a]

Nothing has been changed all values are set at 0, just so it will accept the new maf. There is a RA 93 chip in there now. I haven't bought the extender yet. One thing i did notice was my interregator was between 128 and 131(good so far) now the block learn on the other hand was 101 to 105. As far as the AF reading it seemed right(except for the 6 to 1 @ idle), then we go to around 14 @2000 rpm's. 21 @ 3000 rpm's, finally maxing out at around 3600 rpm's with 24 to 1.

I haven't had much time to mess with it. Today was actually the first day i got anything done.I swapped my control arms and panhard bar,then swapped maf''s,then wired the translator,then installed the scanmaster,fixed the power antenna from running continuously,then it was time to call it a day.

Also ran it on the highway for 10 minutes she moves good with only 10 lbs in it, but when i parked it i got codes 32 and 54 anyone know what these are?


Thanx for the replies guys!!!

 

[TNTTA]

Code 32 is EGR 54 is not used.Are your dip switches set correct?They should be on,on,off,off.

 

[trading t/a]

The translator+ says that it should be on,on,on,off if you are not using the extender chip. Do I have this backwards? That could be why it is running so pig rich. What are everyones AF when revving past 2800rpm's(mine is at 24)

When i took the connector off of the coil pack i found two seperate sides for the coil. There is a white one on each and the only grey wires have a red stripe down them(again 1 on each side of the harness bolted into the coil). Is this the grey wire or do I have to go into the harness before it T's off into the coil pack?

Also if this is the grey wire can i hook up to just one white and grey(with red stripe) or do I have to splice each side of the coil harnes?

Thanx for all your replies guys......


Pete

 

[TNTTA]

Pete,Forgot you weren't using the extender chip.on,on,on,off.What mass air are you using?You will splice into one wire going to the coil pack and its white .After you cut the wire you will have two ends.One coming from the coilpack,and one from the harness. Connect the grey from the T+ to the white wire that you cut going to the coil pack.This leaves two wires the white from the harness and the white from the T+ connect these together and your done.Remeber you only cut one wire the white one closet to the firewall.Hope this clarifies it.Maybe someone has a pic of it.

 

[trading t/a]

Fantastic that was the answer i was looking for.thanx for the clarification TNT!


Here is a new one I switched the third toggle to off and my rich o2 code went away??? I finally figured out what injectors I have now I gotta see if thrasher will take back the unopened stock injector chips for 2 868 chips.

Now I gotta found out how to identify the turbo! It seems the last owner or the previous one threw a lot of money at this car then gave up and i cant get any info on it.

There are a lot of upgrades on this car and I dont know if they match correctly.

Upgraded turbo(last owner had maintenence work done and they said it was a te-44(checked with turbonetics web page and they dont offer a 44, but it is definately a turbonetics turbo)

RA93 chip(runs like crap),Plenum spacer,868 injectors,upgraded pump,hotwire kit,K&N,chrome up-pipe and maf pipe,AFPR(at least i think it has an adjusting screw on top, but is made by Bosch),flowmaster cat back(I know),braided trans lines,high stall non lock up converter,shift kit(shifts hard),boost gauge knock sensor gauges,fuel pressure gauge on rail.

With all that I bought subframe connectors,LCA'S,panhard bar,LT1 3" MAF($10),translator+,scanmaster 2,and two thrasher chips (for stock injectors that i gotta return).

Right now I can only boost to 10 then it drops to 8 then maxes out back at 10(checked the hoses,adj. the rod,cant get anymore boost).

It is running rich BL is anywhere from 99 to 115,interregator is anywhere from 115 to 131, fuel pressure is set at 45 psi.The only thing I can think is that the chip is for stock injectors and the larger injectors are dumping to much fuel.

Anyone in northern NJ that has and is knowledgeable with TTA's and wouldn't mind going over the car with me I'd really appreciate it.

Sorry this post is so dam long

Pete