About 2 months after I got my GN I made a stupid mistake. In late August I decided to take on the challenge of replacing the timing chain, rear main seal, front seal, oil pick up, water pump, etc. Well, I started the project about 3 weeks before I went back to college and the farthest I got was pulling the entire motor apart and getting the timing chain on, but not the cover. Well, after going to college the car sat in my garage until late september with the oil pan and front cover, and valve covers off. In september my father decided to tow it to a shop and have them finish puttin it back together. Well, it's running but I'm really really scared that moisture could have gotten in the motor and could lead to rust and then well, I could throw a rod because of rust and an uneven surface or something. So, I sit here with $3000, and I'm wondering if I should have it rebuilt? I think it would be the safe thing to do. I don't think it would be wise to mod it and then BOOM. So, what are your guys thoughts? And if I decide to rebuild I will be looking to have a motor that can potentially hit high 10s/low 11s, so what besides the main caps and girdle and the basic rebuilding, should I do? If the rods are somewhat rusted where can I find stock replacements? Or where can I get some forged that aren't going to run me $1500? And should I get a forged eagle crank if that's rusted too? Or is it just cheaper to buy a new motor? Idk, I just need some advice.
Should I rebuild as a caution?
- Thread starter baller760
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Nothing important should 'rust' if it was assembled properly with lube n all...or had even been running... Rust on the outside of rods isnt going to kill anything, besides its probably surface rust if anything...
As far as leaving all the covers off... well the only difference is getting dirt in there but asfar as moisture is concerned... the block is vented anyways... it's not like you had it in the rain or a tank of water, right? Mine engines sat for almost a year before i finished everything and turnedkey... no probs and no rust on anything besides the outside of the block that wasnt painted.
I guess idk why you fear it would blow?
Here's the other thing... Dont rebuild it until it breaks - especially for such a little worry as rust or something.. ? Any mod you'll be doing isnt going to be the shortblock anyway and you can reuse anything that you'd put on.. When/if it breaks is where you do the shortblock and put in hardparts. Drive it, enjoy it, and then fix it when u blow it up cos you went too fast
Also your $3G sounds like a lot, but trust me, that will go so fast it will make your head spin and you'll be left with a car sitting there short of finished. Here's a quickie IF you rebuild like you've said: crank 500, balancer 300, flexplate 200, pistons 500, rods ?, machinework 500, heads/valves 1200+, girdle 300, cam 200, well, you get the point... money runs out really fast! If you really wanna do a project like this, keep what u have and start on another block...
Phil
As far as leaving all the covers off... well the only difference is getting dirt in there but asfar as moisture is concerned... the block is vented anyways... it's not like you had it in the rain or a tank of water, right? Mine engines sat for almost a year before i finished everything and turnedkey... no probs and no rust on anything besides the outside of the block that wasnt painted.
I guess idk why you fear it would blow?
Here's the other thing... Dont rebuild it until it breaks - especially for such a little worry as rust or something.. ? Any mod you'll be doing isnt going to be the shortblock anyway and you can reuse anything that you'd put on.. When/if it breaks is where you do the shortblock and put in hardparts. Drive it, enjoy it, and then fix it when u blow it up cos you went too fast
Also your $3G sounds like a lot, but trust me, that will go so fast it will make your head spin and you'll be left with a car sitting there short of finished. Here's a quickie IF you rebuild like you've said: crank 500, balancer 300, flexplate 200, pistons 500, rods ?, machinework 500, heads/valves 1200+, girdle 300, cam 200, well, you get the point... money runs out really fast! If you really wanna do a project like this, keep what u have and start on another block...
Phil
NHRA Super Gas
Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2005
- Messages
- 166
Don't worry
You didn't get rust on anything in a short timeframe, nor should you be worried. All the important stuff was covered in a thin film of oil.
While never a bad idea to rebuild if you're going after serious perf numbers, it seems with these cars the stock shortblocks can take a pretty good beating before you have problems.
Good luck, and congrats on getting involved early. I spent too much time partying in HS and not enough with my cars, it hampered the learning curve.
You didn't get rust on anything in a short timeframe, nor should you be worried. All the important stuff was covered in a thin film of oil.
While never a bad idea to rebuild if you're going after serious perf numbers, it seems with these cars the stock shortblocks can take a pretty good beating before you have problems.
Good luck, and congrats on getting involved early. I spent too much time partying in HS and not enough with my cars, it hampered the learning curve.
rodman99999
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2004
- Messages
- 1,215
Like Phil said: If you think a 10sec car is fast- wait 'til you see how fast you spend that $3K trying to build one. Although there are folks going 9s/10s w/stock blocks/cranks/rods, etc. Find another 109 block, and build it on the side, while you're still enjoying the motor in your "T". You're going to have to save more for the suspension, tranny, and rear end beefing to do those tens(consistantly) anyway. Do you go to the track w/your car? Figure in a rollcage too. 
Well yeah, I know the $3000 is nowhere near enough for a 10 second car, safely anyway. This project will not be done in a year, as I don't get money all that quickly being in college. IT would take time, and I will eventually over the next 2-3 years beef up the rear, beer up the suspension, tranny, etc. Then I will get new weatherstripping and fix those damn windows so I can wash my car without water dripping inside all over the place!!! lol. Obviously, the $3000 or more would be just for the rebuild to have a motor that is ready, whether it would just be driven around the block until I got more money to modify and whatever to it.
- Joined
- May 24, 2004
- Messages
- 2,168
I would say your fine, all the inside still had a film of oil on everything from running before you pulled it apart. Any moisture you got inside lasted about long enough for you to run it the first time and get it hot then the pcv ate it up lol. Run her. Daniel :biggrin:
Sam Colalillo
low 9's w/ a 109
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,469
Spend your time studying while you are in college right now. Keep saving your money, if you can. Enjoy your car while it is togethor. Then when you are done with school, and get a better paying job, that is when you turn that thing into the animal you always wanted. Right now you should be focussing on school not building a ten second car.
Like everyone else says, your car is fine, I agree with them.
Like everyone else says, your car is fine, I agree with them.
You dont have to wait till your outta school to do it... I'm just about done (last semester - ahhhh)
do it like me: be really really broke, have a car that hot girls hate to ride in, and fix it everyother day between tests, hw, and projects. sounds like a perfect plan for success to me
do it like me: be really really broke, have a car that hot girls hate to ride in, and fix it everyother day between tests, hw, and projects. sounds like a perfect plan for success to me
