SMC kit pressure switch

[GotGas8668]

I've had the SMC kit for about 8 months (3 of which I was rebuilding the engine). I've had great luck with it, but a few problems. Maybe someone could give me some ideas.

Okay, first problem was the old pump (cylindrical tank set up) sheared the gear. The guys at SMC were great and sent me another setup. But I noticed that the new pump takes a little longer to prime because it is so big. I usually just "perge" the system before getting all the way into the throttle. That seems to fix the problem.

Second, this may just be a problem with my car or my tuning, but I notice that I'm getting knock out the wazzoo off the bat. After the car has taken off, the knock drops to zero. That "transitional knock" just scares the hell out of me.

Third, the pressure switch. I noticed one day that the "spray on" light wasn't coming on. Scared the hell out of me. I checked out the system and used the test button to run some alcohol through the system, everything seems fine. Then, I slowly brought up the boost, definitely could tell the alcohol was on. I checked the leads on the pressure switch, and even pulled off the actual trigger part that the wires are hooked to, everything is good and i can depress the red button on the trigger and the light comes on. Is there something that can be keeping the switch from coming on automatically???

Does anyone know how to hook up the "power injection" light as well?

I'm running a bored out block with TRW pistons, lots of extras, 50# injectors and a T66 ballbearing turbo. It's hot as hell here (about 100-110 and no humidity in the day), so the car doesn't see much boost until dark.

 

[Red Regal T]

I can't help you with your multiple SMC problems but I can say that the knock your experiencing when accelerating from a dead stop may be wheel spin knock or possibly your downpipe hitting the frame causing false knock. Make sure your don't have anything loose that may be hitting some other part.

 

[GotGas8668]

well i just rebuilt it not too long ago nothing is loose and the torque strap is tight the car has always had transitional knock so i always wait and see if the knock drops which it usually does as far as spinning it really grabs traction pretty well just at about 17 psi and climbing it shows a lot of knock (10-15 degrees) but the next scanmaster datalog is usually half of that and then it keeps halving itself until the knock is zero then at the top of 3rd it might sometimes show 1-2 degrees of knock

 

[Red Regal T]

Alcohol not coming on soon enough? Try lowering your turn on point. I have mine come on at 8-9#s of boost. You really shouldn't have any from a dead stop. May also be your chip.

 

[Razor]

Red.ya didnt read 66 turbo..spools really fast and makes mucho power..he suffers from..

Big turbo with little alcohol kit syndrome.

You need a lot more alky on top and it has to come on earlier. Couple options are going to a twin stage or using something like my progressive.

Look at the video I posted..you'll notice a lot just when the pedal is mashed..hopefully this makes sense.

Anything above a mild turbo..you need more..thats if your making any power..sorry my kit is not compatible with the SMC pump..well it is.but you wont take advantage of running a BIG pump and flowing what you need...three passes and that bottle will be drained..assumming that the pump in the bottle is working as should.

Too early and ya bog..too late and it rattles..sounds familiar huh

 

[SMC]

advice from SMC on pressure switches

First of I'll I want to thank Red Regal for being nice!

As for the pressure switch......this is the most common problem people are having. We added this feature so that you will know you have line pressure when the lite is on. The 1st factory that supplied me the nylon switches assured me they were up to the task- it took some time but these older switches are crapping out. The new pressure switches look like the old ones except they have a METAL body. Anyone with one of the older NYLON (plastic) bodied switches can call SMC for a free replacement to the new switch.

As for troubleshooting- if the spray on lite comes on when the 2 wires on the pressure switch are jumpered, the lite and wiring are OK. The switches are preset to close at approx 35 psi spray pressure. Where is your pump speed set at? It should be set at 6 minimum on a TR, higher is better! Did you verify pump pressure with the guage on the tank? If you have good pressure then it's likely the pressure switch is at fault.

Got Gass- If you have your pump speed at 5 or higher it should trigger the pressure switch. Call or email me an address and I'll send the new switch.

This pressure switch issue will continue to crop up until we replace all of them. They will be replaced free of charge even if the warranty is expired. I'm very P.O'd at that switch supplier....but there is nothing I can do except to replace the buggers for you guys free. I'm also going to post this in a new thread- if the moderators want to make it "sticky" everyone on the forum will be able to see it and get their new switch.

 

[GotGas8668]

Thanks, Steve. I appreciate how good you are to your customers.