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smoking problem found.... maybe

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obrut

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2001
Messages
297
My car would smoke on start up and at idle. It was blue smoke and its been that way since having the motor done over 4 years ago. I put about 3000 miles on the car since the rebuild and ended up hating it because of the smoking problem(see previous post from years ago). So i stop driving it and put it in a corner and forgot about it. I started to work on it a few months ago and decide it was just time to pull the engine again and go through it. Well last night i finally got some time to pull it. I pulled the engine and trans, put the engine on a stand and this moring i started looking it over. Before i even pulled the intake or valve covers i looked in the exhaust ports. three out of the sixs valves have oil build up around them and the other three seemed like there was a little oil on them. Needless to say the guy that did my heads screwed up. I'm going to take a few pics and i will post them later. The ports have like a glossy chare looked to them. If this turns out to be a simple thing as having the heads redone or just replacing them(i have two sets laying here) that would be great. Tomorrow i hope to pull the heads and intake and get a better look. but for now i'll keep my fingures crossed that its something that simple.
 
i also wanted to add that i had the turbo rebuilt twice and installed the pvc catch can and still had a smoking problem. I will be pulling the heads this week, can anyone recommed a good machine shop in IL?
 
Are all the valves with oil in one head or between the two?
You may have a leaking intake gasket.
 
obrut said:
the pics go in this order 2 4 6 7 5 1, so the problem is in both heads.
Looks like the guides as stated before.
 
i pulled the heads tonight and took some pics
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tpalm...hoo.com/ph/tpalmisano@sbcglobal.net/my_photos

i took two pics of the cylinder walls, they look like they have two very little score marks but i can't feel anything, its just visable. Also when i pulled the head gaskets part of the gasket stayed on the block except for right about the cylinder right by the intake. When the engine was together i did a compression test and all the cylinders were around 160. What do you guys think?
 
obrut said:
i pulled the heads tonight and took some pics
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tpalm...hoo.com/ph/tpalmisano@sbcglobal.net/my_photos

i took two pics of the cylinder walls, they look like they have two very little score marks but i can't feel anything, its just visable. Also when i pulled the head gaskets part of the gasket stayed on the block except for right about the cylinder right by the intake. When the engine was together i did a compression test and all the cylinders were around 160. What do you guys think?

Ok, Here is my $0.02.

Compression testing does not always tell the whole story. Leakdown and a tear-down usually do.

The pics are not very clear but if the “wet combustion chamber” coincides with the scored cylinder, it is “no bueno”. Pull the piston as you most likely have a broken ring which broke during assembly 4 years ago. Deglaze the bore, make sure it cleans up, verify the clearances, install new rings, break it in right.

Now, the other cylinders smoking is another issue.
If the rings in one is broke from previous rebuild, the other rings may not be installed correctly and you may have some issues there as well.

One cylinder (if bad enough) can also effect the others through the EGR. Smoke from the exhaust is re-circulated through the EGR/intake ……… yadi yada.
 
the wet in the cylinder is from antifreeze that spilled in when i pulled the cylinder head. The cylinder that has the score mark is dry. As i said before the marks can not be felt only seen. Plus the egr tower in the intake is ground down and welded closed. Is it possible that i screw the heads up when i ported and polished them?

BTW thanks for the help Jerryl, 260 something views and not many replies.
 
obrut said:
.......... Is it possible that i screw the heads up when i ported and polished them?

BTW thanks for the help Jerryl, 260 something views and not many replies.
Depening on the port and polish job, it is hard to say, but not likely the cause. As you already know, there are only a few things that will allow oil in the cumbustion chamber/exhaust path;
Turbo seals - Effects all cylinders
PCV (connected) - Effects all select cylinders
Valve guides and/or seals - Effects only select cylinders
Leaking intake gasket - Effects only select cylinders
Defective Rings - Effects only select cylinders
Cracked heads - Effects only select cylinders
 
i removed the spring from one of the exhaust valves today. with the valve open a little i can feel and see movement in the valve. Is there a way to measure this so i can tell if this is a problem or not?
 
obrut said:
i removed the spring from one of the exhaust valves today. with the valve open a little i can feel and see movement in the valve. Is there a way to measure this so i can tell if this is a problem or not?
You really need an ID and OD micrometer, or, you can do it with a dial indicator to get you close.

(Guide ID - Stem OD) / 2 = Clearance
With the dial indicator, your readings will have more error and may be skewed resulting from "Out of round" condition.
 
you need a micrometer and a, havin trouble remembering the name of this thing, ball guage? you put the ball guage in the valve guide and it has an adjustment to make it match the size of the guide. then you measure the ball guage with the micrometer, and compare that to the measurement of the valve stem. i dont know what the clearance should be off the top of my head. maybe you should have a maching shop check that for you, those tools can be real pricey and arent the easiest to use.
 
inner diameter mic? i think youre thinkin of a digital or dial caliper. those only measure the top of the guide and youd need a reeeeeally small one to use it on the valve guides.
 
i'll have to see if i have anything at work to check the bore size of the guide. So once i know the ID of the guide and the OD of the valve how do i know what is to much clearance?
 
alvin87gn said:
inner diameter mic? i think youre thinkin of a digital or dial caliper. those only measure the top of the guide and youd need a reeeeeally small one to use it on the valve guides.
You are correct. I meant "Bore gage".

Edit:
Clearance spec is 0.002"
 

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i had a problem with smoking also. i initially used a high volume oil pump when i built the engine before i knew about the problems these pumps cause. i replaced the pump to a stock pump and the smoking stopped completely. i guess the heads were being flooded with oil and overwhelming the exhaust guides. my exhaust ports looked just like that.
 
The spec is .002? I think this might be my problem, i can see the valve move back and forth. When i removed the valve i could see the buttom of the guide was wet with oil.

collins thats intresting because i have the high pressure pump, 50psi cold idle, 30psi at 160 temp idle, and woundered the same thing 3-4 years ago but i never changed it.

Anyone else have the same problem with the high pressure oil pump?
 
How do the valve seals look? Are they snug around the valve stems? My machine shop got me to use what they called "The japanese style" seals. They said they seal better that Felpro. I am sure my valve to guide clearance is too much, after leaving machine shop. I can move valve around alot. There is cranking smoke shich peeves me of bad, but no idle smoke , and almost 0 oil use.
 
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