some help please

[quickbrick]

i was out driving my daily driver tr today and whenever i gave it over half throttle it would die. i was pulling on the highway and it died for a half a second then was fine. so i tried it again and same thing. i waited to get closer to my house and gave it 3/4 throttle and it completely died. i pulled it to the side of the road and it started fine. it has no problems with regular driving. my car does have the original crank sensor and coil pack w/125,000 miles on it. does it sound like one of these things causing this. or is there something else i should look at.i just reset my idle and tps yesterday but i dont think that should have anything to do with it. thanks for the help.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Do you have a scan tool?

This usually has to do with a sensor. My first guess would be an air problem, such as an intercooler hose leaking, vac line blown off or a bad MAF.

 

[quickbrick]

all i have is a scanmaster. maf readings look ok. btw what is ats on the sm. it reads 130 at idle then the faster i go the lower it gets. on the highway its like 100. i thought it was alternator but wasnt sure. all other readings on it look normal. im about to check vac lines now.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Air Tempature Sensor - high tech thermometer.

It measures the tempature of the air coming into the maf, which really makes no sense to me, because after the turbo is done with the air it is like a bajillion degrees.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Maybe steve wood will jump in here. He is the master guru.

 

[Joe 1320]

IMHO, I would ohm the coil. Sometimes they seem to work fine in the grandma cruise mode and when you get into the throttle, they can't light the mixture and it cuts out. They don't always fail that way, but I had one that did that. Also, could be a fuel problem..... get into the throttle and the pump can't supply the fuel and the combustion event stops. The car will restart and run fine until you get into the throttle again. that could be the pump and/or regulator. also, the MAF readings should increase as airflow through it increases....... think about it. Under boost and higher rpm you should see definate increases in maf values. Are you absolutely sure that your intake hose isn't collapsing, causing it it choke off the engine? I've seen that before too. That would explain lower maf readings as well as the engine cutting out. It's pretty hard to collapse one to that point though.

 

[quickbrick]

i looked over my motor everything looked fine except, i sprayed some carb cleaner around the egr and it bogged a little. so i am going to get a new gasket now. when i push up on the egr diaphram it doesnt do anything( it hasnt since i bought the car 4 months ago , even when it ran good). i have a solid maf pipe so its not collapsing. all connections look good. ill check the maf readings on the way to get the gasket. also my ohmmeter is dead so i need a battery to check it. should i use some gasket sealer on the egr gasket. my fuel pump, hotwire and injectors are fairly new. i have an extra regulator i will try that too. thanks

 

[quickbrick]

i ohm'd the coil and it read, 13.3,13.6, and 13.7. these look ok? maf numbers start at 5 on idle and climb normally to about 100 at 1/2 throttle. maybe my car will idle better with the egr gasket fixed. i dont think that would cause it to die like it was though. im goin for a drive now.

 

[Joe 1320]

Coil ohms look good, the EGR... gotta fix that! Make sure that the vacuum line that activates the EGR is in good shape as well. Ya know heat takes it's toll on that stuff. A good item to have is a fuel pressure gauge that you can see while driving. It eliminates a certain amount of guesswork.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Dies??

Sounds to me like perhaps a ground is going away.... CHECK'EM ALL!!
Look at the starter stud too.. POS cable hitting the DP?? engine ,mounts could be letting the engine sag under throttle load and cause this to happen.. W/ 125,000?? Maybe a GOOD spring cleaning is in order, if not done yet..
Look at the upper, rear a-arm bushing on the pass. side, is the rubber cooked?? A good indication that the batt cables could be too.

 

[quickbrick]

ya, the two a-arm bushings closest to the dp are toasted. thats the next thing to do on my list, not sure if i can do it myself. my car had a torque strap when i bought it. the mounts are not bad either. i didnt know the pos cable was close to the dp ill have to check that.
i put a new gasket on my egr last night. for some reason there was a lot of oil in the bottom hole of the egr. that may be from the turbo, i know the seal is bad and i have a ta-49 that will be going on soon . it seems to idle better now, and i took it out last night and it didnt die when drivin hard. so maybe i fixed it(knock on wood). thanks for everyones help.

 

[Roger]

My coil was toast when it read anything over 13k ohms.

 

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by Roger
My coil was toast when it read anything over 13k ohms.

Could be some truth in that...... I've seen some that worked fine at that reading, others that didn't. Most of the time if all 3 are close, it still works. It just may be prudent to pick up a fresh one to have on hand when this one takes a puke, and sooner or later they all do.