Somebody please help quick

[OKTurbo]

This may sound a bit extreme, but it sounds like you've tried the easy stuff.

Fuel pressure GOOD....Spark Good....etc.

Personally, I would take off the up pipe / open up the throttle blade and spray in some starting fluid....crank it over and see if it will fire on the starting fluid. This will at least confirm the spark and let you know if it's not something more drastic....like the timing chain ~really~ screwed up.

Good Luck,
John

BTW....keep a fire extinquisher handy...

 

[.38 special]

John,

I think we must have gone to the same school or something. Of course that was one of the first things I tried no luck. And I always keep a fire extinguisher handy. That is the only thing I learned from my 2 (two) (dos) fires. Don't get me started on that.


I really just pray that it is the crank sensor. In fact, everyone just join hands and say a little prayer to the car gods for me.

 

[OKTurbo]

Hmmm....then you've got no spark.

Suggestion: Go to the ole' "no start" / Engine cranks but won't run list and start working your way thru it.

It's a pain BUT you will find the problem.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/maintenance/nostart.html

Good Luck,
John

 

[.38 special]

But I do have spark. When I pull a plug, and leave it on the wire, and, ground it out while someone turns the key I see spark. It just doesn't look consistant, and then it won't spark. Or if I pull the plug at the coil, I see the arch, but then I don't, and so on.

 

[LC2 ROD]

Well it is the new year, is it running yet?

You say it has intermittent spark during cranking.
Have you checked injector pulse during cranking?

 

[.38 special]

dalfkhasldnfkdnbaskfgjasdh@#%$@!!!!!!!

IT'S NOT THE CRANK SENSOR!!!
I guess I will tow it home tommorrow. I will begin tearing down the front of the motor to get to the timing gears. Im about 99% sure that I've grinded some teeth off or something. I did notice though the last times I tried to start it with the intercooler off after I changed the crank sensor that gas vapor was blowing out the plenum and breather I think. I think that means the initial timing is out of whack--wish I would have noticed it before.

I guess the reason for the nonconsistant spark was due to a bad ground on the plug.

Rod--I do have injector pulse--when I disconnect the power to the pump, the pressure does pulse down. I don't know how else to check it.

I hope my questions will be answered when the timing cover comes off.

STUPID QUESTION---That metal ring thingy on the back of the crank pully does pass through the first slot on the crank sensor, right? The further slot from the plug.

Again, if anyone sees something I have overlooked, let me know.
Ill keep everyone posted-----------Thanks

 

[LC2 ROD]

Sound's like you have compression blowing into the intake.
CAM TIMING!!!!

I use a noid light on the injector connector to test for injector pulse.

 

[GN87Mike]

Did you do a compression check? Fuel, air and compression. Should have good compression if timing chain is OK.

 

[.38 special]

Well, everyone who is interested, I finally got the time tonight to take off the timing cover. I do have my answer. It was the timing Thank God. The cam gear was pretty much bald. I read another thread earlier this week that stated that new valve springs can cause stress on an old timing set--makes sense. While mine wasn't that old, it must have caused the problem. I guess I should have mentioned that earlier, one of you guys would have mentioned something sooner.

Now I'm really worried though. When I was turning the push rods (trying to see if the valves were closing in order to find tdc), I noticed that one of my push rods is bent. Does this mean that I could have cam problems? What should I do about the pushrod?

Everyone----Thanks for the helpful information.

James, I lost the number that you gave me earlier--I didn't forget to call you back--so if you read this call me.

 

[LC2 ROD]

Sounds like your piston hit a valve bending the pushrod.
Most G.M. engines are interference design.
When cam is out of time, valves can and most likely will hit the piston.

 

[.38 special]

well none of the other push rods seemed to be bent, should I just replace that one? Should I worry about the piston being scarred and damaged? What about the valves, would they be bent? I guess after I get everything back together and replace that pushrod, then I will do another compression check.

 

[blueracer1969]

I drove my GN to the store the other day. When i came out, it wouldnt start. I checked everything. Looked ok. Replaced the crank sensor, but still wouldnt start. Turned out to be the timing chain.

 

[LC2 ROD]

Every bent pushrod from a timing chain problem
(piston hitting valve) that I diagnosed ended up
having a bent valve as well. I hope you have a
better result.

 

[gn79]

Trying changing your fan relay, the big one. I had that one go out on my car and the car wouldnt strat. It would want to strat, but It wouldnt. Finally someone tolded me it might be the fan that was cosing the problem. I changed the big relay and the car turned on. I have hear that those relays go out quickly and they cause some problems. Try that and see if it helps. If it doesnt strat it will be a sensor problem not a mechincal one.

 

[LC2 ROD]

Replace the big relay

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by LC2 ROD
Replace the big relay

Yes. Replacing the big relay - not the small one - straightens pushrods and valves. Replacing the small one only fixes blown headgaskets, which clearly isn't the problem here.

Jim

 

[LC2 ROD]

Originally posted by turbojimmy
Yes. Replacing the big relay - not the small one - straightens pushrods and valves. Replacing the small one only fixes blown headgaskets, which clearly isn't the problem here.

Jim

Thanks Jim for that info. I had it backwards.

 

[OKTurbo]

?!?! Good Grief ?!?!?