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Spun a bearing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Turbo Dog
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Engine builder said I "flattened", not "spun" the number 5 (?)bearing, due to oil starvation. The oil was full when I drove the car, and it was still full when it got to the engine builder. This leads me to believe that there was a dry start sometime after the chain was replaced. The mechanic who replaced the chain said he disconnected the orange wire and bumped the motor over until there was oil pressure. However, this is not the procedures recommended at gnttype.org.
The motor is out and we're waiting on a crank. Mine was turned 10-30 and so I'm getting one that's 10-10 from a 4.1 motor. It should be here this week. Getting JE pistons too. Motor will be bored 20 over. Anyway, I just mailed the oil pump priming directions (from gnttyp.org) to the guy who changed my timing chain. I guess I'm learning about my motor the hard way.
 
The same exact thing happened to me! I had the timing cover front seal replaced and the next day I drove the car home from work (did not have an oil pressure gauge hooked up yet) and started hearing all kinds of wrapping. I did not spin a bearing but all the bearings (rod and crank) were orange. Had to rebuild my engine and buy a new crank.

Take the advice of the others. Pull the pan to see whats going on before you spend any cash.
 
Hey Geoff.... You can do it. If your pulling the motor your halfway home. My wife goes to MB every other weekend to work, so I can come help ya on the weekends. If I were you.. I would contact Advance and put my name on the list for a 10/10 crank & bearing kit for $230. Be careful they don't try to give you a 20/30.

Sully
 
Originally posted by V6 Beast
Hey Geoff.... You can do it. If your pulling the motor your halfway home. My wife goes to MB every other weekend to work, so I can come help ya on the weekends. If I were you.. I would contact Advance and put my name on the list for a 10/10 crank & bearing kit for $230. Be careful they don't try to give you a 20/30.

Sully
I didn't know Advance kept a list. They sent me a 20/30 and I said "no thanks." The manager said he would call the warehouse and speak with the foreman before they ship one that is no good. I didn't take him up on it because the engine builder already located one. This is also a good time to send my steering wheel to Alan Faircloth at carmotorsports for a rewrap.
 
Sooo.. more than likely, the reason for the bearing failure was the oil pump not being primed correctly after the timing chain replacement?

I'm getting ready to do this, and am very interested. :D
 
I guess I dont understand why the pump has to be primed after a chain replacement.

I have never done the chain on one of these engines, only a BBC, but cant see the reason for it. I checked gnttype.org and did not see where it says anywhere that the pump needs to be primed prior to starting
 
Anytime the oil pump is drained, you should spin the pump or pack it to make sure there's sufficient oil pressure on startup, I would think that would apply to all engines.. :confused:
 
So what is the difference between what is being done here and changing the oil? I think I may be missing something here since I have not done a timing chain swap as I stated earlier. If the pan is dropped I can see priming, but it looks like the swap can be done with the pan intact :confused:
 
Originally posted by blackbuick87
So what is the difference between what is being done here and changing the oil? I think I may be missing something here since I have not done a timing chain swap as I stated earlier. If the pan is dropped I can see priming, but it looks like the swap can be done with the pan intact :confused:

The pan really needs to at least come down a bit to get the front cover off of the guide pins. In any case, the front cover has to come off..and the oil pump comes with it. Now you've broken the oil feed connection between the pump and the pickup. If the cover isn't moved around much the oil in the pump gears may not drain out and it may prime OK when it's re-started..or it may not. :)

IMO it's a great time to pull the pump cover, inspect the gears, re-pack the pump and re-assemble. If you don't want to do this, at least spinning the pump after re-assembly with a prime tool is a good idea; you can verify oil pressure.
 
Originally posted by blackbuick87
I guess I dont understand why the pump has to be primed after a chain replacement.

I have never done the chain on one of these engines, only a BBC, but cant see the reason for it. I checked gnttype.org and did not see where it says anywhere that the pump needs to be primed prior to starting

Click here, then go to step 42 in the instructions: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/timingchain.html
 
Thanks Kendall, now I see why. Since I have not had to go into the lower end (knock on wood) I am not familiar with the oil pump setup. Thx for the explanatory
 
I just read this thread, seems alot of people have gotten screwed on a simple job for a simple precaution.. I had my timing chain done by a mechanic that my friend referred me to.. my friend is pretty intelligent but has no idea what a turbo buick really is, anyhow, when i took it there, i was suprised to find the mechanic used to work for GN/T performance. in a way I guess i was lucky, he knew what to do and my bearings are still in good shape..

definitely NEVER take your car to any mechanic you dont feel comfortable with.. ESPECIALLY people at some hog dog shop! even the lead tech mechanic at the sears auto center I used to work for, he is an ASE master mechanic.. and couldnt tell the difference between a broken rod and a broken timing belt.. my moms lebaron was in there for a week because it broke when i went to leave work that day.. they said "you need a new motor" .. idiots.

*GO OUT AND FIND* a good mechanic. and just because they're ASE certified, doesnt make a damn bit of difference ..because i doubt they've been taught anything remotely specific to a turbo 3.8 motor!

$.02
 
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