stall and backfire

[Spoolin Hooligan]

Ok well got the car back together. Started her up and after a warm up took her for a spin no problems. I was gonna go to the track at Numedia tomorrow. So I go to a long bridge and load up the boost and practice a launch. Well she lurches forward and back fires. I'm thinking crap. I must not have plugged something in right. Get to the stop light it stalls. Get it started again trying to make it back home. It acts up again look down at the gas gauge its close to E so I'm thinking no gas. Pull over put a little emergency gas I have stored in the trunk in. It starts back up get it a 200 yards from my driveway its up hill mind you. Stalls again and backfires. Now my dad thinks its the fuel filter from me sucking the bottom of my fuel tank. I hope its not the pump. Checked the fuel pressure gauge it was up to 50lbs. So I don't think either. Probably be going to Buick performance outside Philadelphia if I can't figure it out. Oh and it would run in idle but as soon as I put it in drive it would stall What do you think. Reposting it in this thread didn't get a lot of love in engine tech section

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

A friend that races Honda's said i may have blown a vacuum line or intercooler piping off. we shall see.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I told you check your couplings.

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

I told you check your couplings.

I know I know. I didn't check yet. I also didn't know that could cause that. I hope its that easy

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

I give up the car started for about 3 seconds and shut off again. I've checked the spark. Intercooler piping. Unplugged MAF sensor. Have 50+ lbs on my fuel pressure gauge. I don't know anymore

 

[turbotroy]

Sounds like its time for scanmaster / powerlogger

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

Sounds like its time for scanmaster / powerlogger

Got one. Scanmaster can't read it. If the car isn't running

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

I'm thinking maybe injectors are clogged due to me running it dry. And backfire indicates a fuel problem or timing but didn't touch the timing. My spark plugs look good. But my dad says they look dry for me trying to turn it over so many times. So injectors is where ill start unless. Someone else has any other ideas

 

[TurboBuRick]

Check the cam sensor wheel. The tab is known to break.

RL

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

Check the cam sensor wheel. The tab is known to break.

RL

Haha cool. Where is that. Talk slow I'm not known for my mechanical knowledge. Thanks for any info.

 

[turbotroy]

Another way to check cam sensor pulse is with a noid light. Unplug an injector and plug noid light into harness.

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

I'm just going to take it to a performance shop. I don't have time for it. Wish someone would buy it. Haha. I love this car until it doesn't run.

 

[87-WE2]

OK - you said you just got the car back together. What did you take it apart to do?

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

OK - you said you just got the car back together. What did you take it apart to do?

Replaced fuel supply and return lines to and from fuel rail.

Where the lines thread in under the engine. The rubber busted in the supply line so replaced both

Got flow going to the fuel rail. Gauge says 50+ and I took the line of and it has plenty of fuel when I turn the car over.

 

[87-WE2]

What kind of chip do you have? TurboTweak requires 43psi base pressure with vac. line off.
50PSI seems high. Does your chip require 50PSI for base pressure? If not, it might be too high and getting too much fuel.

 

[Spoolin Hooligan]

What kind of chip do you have? TurboTweak requires 43psi base pressure with vac. line off.
50PSI seems high. Does your chip require 50PSI for base pressure? If not, it might be too high and getting too much fuel.

Spark plugs looked pretty dry to me. Not flooded. Its been 50 since I've owned it. Chip I'm not sure. Because I can't find it thought it was behind the passenger kick panel. But the guy who owned it before redid the interior and its not removal that I can tell.

 

[87-WE2]

Hmmm.... There should be what looks like a button on the bottom of the plastic panel. Pull that out and that portion of the kick panel should kind of lift up and pull out. There should be a shiny metal box there that has two screws that hold a small plate on. If you take those two screws out, you'll see the chip. They almost always have SOME kind of identifying marks. If you post a pic, most times somebody on the board can help identify at least the chip maker. At that point, you can contact the chip programmer and get more info on it (unless they're out of business). If you see ATR on it, get a new chip - chances are it has WAY too much timing. I speak from experience!!

Do you have an adjustable pressure regulator? It would be worth a shot just to see, right? I mean it wouldn't cost anything to pull the pressure down and it just might work! Just because your plugs aren't wet doesn't necessarily mean that you're not too rich!

I know you've been at 50 since you owned it, but remember that you just replaced your supply and return line. If you had deposits in the previous lines, it might have NEEDED to be higher due to decreased flow volume. You now have NEW supply and return lines that should be back to stock spec and might be flowing more volume. If you're flowing more volume, you might not need the 50PSI. Just thought it would be worth a shot to try a free adjustment rather than to drop it at the shop where EVERYTHING costs $$$!