Starter problem

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Joined
Jun 24, 2008
Messages
449
Went to hop in my car, battery was dead (its brand new) charged her up amd fired it up. I got multiple rapid clicking sounds. I researched and it lead to a bad starter. Purchased a new (not mini) starter, installed it without shims, because as i was removing shims werent installed.I went to start it and what do you know? Same motherf€<##%% thing. I then research and it says to install shims.

Do these go on the long bolt or the short one, and damn what a pain in the ass. Any ideas?
 
In my experience not all starters will require shims. The necessity for shims is due to variations in the starters nose (aluminum part) or even in the engine block. Adding shims just sets the depth at which the teeth on the starters bendix and the teeth on the flexplate meet. If shims are required you need to make sure both bolts are going through the shim.

As far as the problem your having- sounds to me like poor connections somewhere, and possible draw that could be killing the battery. Check all starting/ charging system cables and double check all your grounds. HTH

Tom
 
Here's a bit that might help with the connections. I usually start diagnosing battery / cable connections at the battery. Sometimes crud is growing on one of the cable ends right at or near the battery. Once your battery connections are clean, di-electric grease on the cable ends and battery terminals will help seal up the connections and hopefully keep the connections clean. You probably know this.

Check the ground that goes from the battery to the engine block, at the engine block. Is it loose or is there anything blocking current flow? Both the block and cable end should not have paint, rust, or other corrosion. I usually use some di-electric grease here as well.

If you still can't find the point(s) of high resistance you might think about doing voltage drop testing. You likely know how to do this. If not, look it up online. You would probe across two connections while someone else tries to crank the engine. I would not crank all that long since you probably have something getting very hot.

Sometimes vaseline will serve the same purpose as di-electric grease. Engine heat can cause the vaseline to heat liquify and find its way out. Di-electric grease does not seem to have this problem.

As for the battery drain, do you have an amperage clamp for measuring amperage draw?

Paul Lohr
 
May sound dumb, but are you sure the battery is all the way charged? That's usually what I get out of one with a week charge. Just clicks the starter solenoid as you described.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Thanks all for the replies. Lol turbobuick just returned from carquest returning my 4 month old dead battery. Car works perfect now!!! A damn bad battery, at least I got a new starter now too lol.
 
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