I run 10's in my car and would recommend the best U-joints money can buy in the stock drive shaft and 30 spline axles. Although the stock rear will take the abuse for a while. My drive shaft has been just fine with the good U-joints. I recently rebuilt my rear end. The splines on the stock axles were starting to twist. They would have eventually failed causing a catastrophic failure. I went with the Detroit true trac locker and strange 30 spline axles with c-clip eliminators and roller bearings for street use. The rear end works very well now!
I should have mentioned the stock drive shaft with the best u-joints I can get. Also I have an Auburn posi, which works with my stock axles. I will probably go with 28 spline aftermarket, unless I need to get a different posi. I assume the Detroit True Trac Locker is made somewhere close to Detroit, I live a few miles south of Detroit maybe I will look into getting picking up when I can afford it.
I should have figured.I wished they were made in Detroit. I believe they are actually manufactured overseas. Good ole China or Taiwan!! Bought mine from Jegs.
I should have mentioned the stock drive shaft with the best u-joints I can get. Also I have an Auburn posi, which works with my stock axles. I will probably go with 28 spline aftermarket, unless I need to get a different posi. I assume the Detroit True Trac Locker is made somewhere close to Detroit, I live a few miles south of Detroit maybe I will look into getting picking up when I can afford it.
I don't know what best u joints money can buy means. I didn't say that.What exactly does the best u joints money can buy mean? I would prefer a good stock driveshaft over one that has had the u joints changed....and if there changed to the type with zerks they better be assembled with the zerk hole under compression or your in deep crap. IMO there are no better u joints for a stock shaft than the solid ones gm put in there.
If the car starts to sixty foot good the splines in the trans yoke will twist and make the shaft hard to get out.
After market good axles at a minmum and c clip eliminators should be considered, when the axle breaks it is usually at the line when the car is not moving....but sometimes when it lets go the car is moving and you can run the quarter panel up on top of the tire causing some serious damage.
Paint a stripe on the shaft, and see what it looks like, after some repeated launches...1.8/2.2 short times don't count.
Thats a great idea! Good way to ensure the drive shaft isn’t twisting. I'll have to do this to mine. Better safe than sorry
PST steel shaft, 1350 joints, MW rear diff yoke, Moser clips, axles, Detroit locker,T400, MT 10.5/28/15's, 3710#, t brake.
9's at 142. No issues.
Problems w/ stock shaft can be traced to repeatedly exceeding the critical rpm.
Paint a stripe on the shaft, and see what it looks like, after some repeated launches...1.8/2.2 short times don't count.
The guy that is rebuilding a 109 block for me is the one who suggested stronger u-joints or maybe he said new u joints. I will see.I had some work done by a well known TR mechanic up here in the Northeast.
While my GN was up on a lift,I asked him to replace the stock u-joints with something stronger for safety's sake.
He told me not to bother,that the stock u-joints are super strong and you really can't get anything better.
He could have made a buck. But no...
If the joints have never been replaced, I'd bet they are dried out, and likely have some rust in them.The guy that is rebuilding a 109 block for me is the one who suggested stronger u-joints or maybe he said new u joints. I will see.
If the joints have never been replaced, I'd bet they are dried out, and likely have some rust in them.
The originals in my 59K T were stiff, so I replaced them. The needles were dry, rusty.
Joints in that condition are likely noisy, and can be stiff enuf to create vibration as the try to work.