Stock Drive Shaft and Axles
- Thread starter MCH86GN
- Start date
Flyin Brian
Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2011
I believe many have done it but it is not recommended.
Most would recommend chromoly driveshaft with better u-joints and 30 spline aftermarket axles.
Most would recommend chromoly driveshaft with better u-joints and 30 spline aftermarket axles.
TurboWh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
I run 10's in my car and would recommend the best U-joints money can buy in the stock drive shaft and 30 spline axles. Although the stock rear will take the abuse for a while. My drive shaft has been just fine with the good U-joints. I recently rebuilt my rear end. The splines on the stock axles were starting to twist. They would have eventually failed causing a catastrophic failure. I went with the Detroit true trac locker and strange 30 spline axles with c-clip eliminators and roller bearings for street use. The rear end works very well now!
I should have mentioned the stock drive shaft with the best u-joints I can get. Also I have an Auburn posi, which works with my stock axles. I will probably go with 28 spline aftermarket, unless I need to get a different posi. I assume the Detroit True Trac Locker is made somewhere close to Detroit, I live a few miles south of Detroit maybe I will look into getting picking up when I can afford it.
TurboWh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
I wished they were made in Detroit. I believe they are actually manufactured overseas. Good ole China or Taiwan!! Bought mine from Jegs.
I should have figured.
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
What exactly does the best u joints money can buy mean? I would prefer a good stock driveshaft over one that has had the u joints changed....and if there changed to the type with zerks they better be assembled with the zerk hole under compression or your in deep crap. IMO there are no better u joints for a stock shaft than the solid ones gm put in there.
If the car starts to sixty foot good the splines in the trans yoke will twist and make the shaft hard to get out.
After market good axles at a minmum and c clip eliminators should be considered, when the axle breaks it is usually at the line when the car is not moving....but sometimes when it lets go the car is moving and you can run the quarter panel up on top of the tire causing some serious damage.
I don't know what best u joints money can buy means. I didn't say that.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
PST steel shaft, 1350 joints, MW rear diff yoke, Moser clips, axles, Detroit locker,T400, MT 10.5/28/15's, 3710#, t brake.
9's at 142. No issues.
Problems w/ stock shaft can be traced to repeatedly exceeding the critical rpm.
Paint a stripe on the shaft, and see what it looks like, after some repeated launches...1.8/2.2 short times don't count.
9's at 142. No issues.
Problems w/ stock shaft can be traced to repeatedly exceeding the critical rpm.
Paint a stripe on the shaft, and see what it looks like, after some repeated launches...1.8/2.2 short times don't count.
TurboWh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
Paint a stripe on the shaft, and see what it looks like, after some repeated launches...1.8/2.2 short times don't count.
Thats a great idea! Good way to ensure the drive shaft isn’t twisting. I'll have to do this to mine. Better safe than sorry
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Thats a great idea! Good way to ensure the drive shaft isn’t twisting. I'll have to do this to mine. Better safe than sorry
I also do it w/ the axles......
When they have the "barber pole" look, it's time to change them!
PST steel shaft, 1350 joints, MW rear diff yoke, Moser clips, axles, Detroit locker,T400, MT 10.5/28/15's, 3710#, t brake.
9's at 142. No issues.
Problems w/ stock shaft can be traced to repeatedly exceeding the critical rpm.
Paint a stripe on the shaft, and see what it looks like, after some repeated launches...1.8/2.2 short times don't count.
Thanks Chuck. It's highly unlikely that I will ever run in the 9s, not my goal. However, I will have a considerable investment in my 109 rebuild and transmission when all is said and done and I would hate to damage either because I neglected build the rest of the drivetrain the handle the power it will take to get my 3800# sled down the 1320 in the low 10s.
HighMileage
Albany,NY
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2010
I had some work done by a well known TR mechanic up here in the Northeast.
While my GN was up on a lift,I asked him to replace the stock u-joints with something stronger for safety's sake.
He told me not to bother,that the stock u-joints are super strong and you really can't get anything better.
He could have made a buck. But no...
While my GN was up on a lift,I asked him to replace the stock u-joints with something stronger for safety's sake.
He told me not to bother,that the stock u-joints are super strong and you really can't get anything better.
He could have made a buck. But no...
The guy that is rebuilding a 109 block for me is the one who suggested stronger u-joints or maybe he said new u joints. I will see.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
If the joints have never been replaced, I'd bet they are dried out, and likely have some rust in them.
The originals in my 59K T were stiff, so I replaced them. The needles were dry, rusty.
Joints in that condition are likely noisy, and can be stiff enuf to create vibration as the try to work.
Good point, I will check the maintance log that came with my car and see if the u-joints were changed within the last 10 years. Hard to believe I've had my car almost 8 years.
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