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Stock rod bolts or ARP

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MSDGN

Active Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2001
Messages
2,140
I'm going to be building a spare block I have to hopefully go 10's and was wondering what rod bolts to use...I have a new set of stock rods that I bought about 5 years ago which I'm going to use...should I use the bolts that came with the rods or go with ARP?...if ARP anyone have the part number...
 
I believe the ARPS are stronger, i will be going studs on mine if they make them.
 
ARP does not make studs for the rods. The rods are manufactured for bolts. The original rod bolts are from SPS and are for the most part as good as the ARP stuff. I have seen many 10 second engines with the stock SPS rods bolts. I will tell you however taht on my current build I am using the ARP hardware. My last combo was running mid 11's in the heats with only 23 punds of boost all day long. When it detonated, it did show in the rod bearings but all was still perfectly fine and together. Rods are perfect too. The SPS hardware worked flawlessly. Hope this info helps.
 
If the rod bolts are NEW then yeah I would use them.I NEVER reuse any internal fastners or studs.Thats just me,cheap insureanceIMO

From what ive read SPS are just as good as ARP.HTH
 
Rods and bolts are brand new...well brand new 5 years ago but never used...so old brand new ... :)
 
The Buick "Power Source" book recommends using the stock bolts. Hard to justify expensive bolts in a cast iron rod, like the stockers. (That's what the book says!) The Power Source also recommends using a torque wrench to dissassemble the engine, and if the rod bolts have relaxed, so they take less than 45-50 ft-lbs to break loose, then replace them.
 
The problem with stock bolts is not the strength issue. How many people have you heard break a rod bolt in a V6 buick? The issue is the stock bolts do not do a very good job of locating the cap in the same place each time they are torqued. You bought NEW rods from GM or you bought reconditioned rods from a machine shop?? I would put ARP's in them to eliminate a possible headache. They will need to be resized if you change the bolts.
 
These are brand new rods I got from the General...if I use ARP's they definitely need to have work done around the bolts holes so the bolt heads sit flat on the rod...I was thinking of having the machine shop clean up the rods anyways while I have my block in there...I think you're right for peace of mind just use ARP's...
 
Heavy pistons and high RPM is what stretch rod bolts. Turbo motors do have heavy pistons, but the RPM is not there. The stock SPS bolts are very good, and it would be very unlikely to have a problem with them. Have you ever heard of anyone having a failure due to the stock rod bolts-especially if they're new? Lots of motors broke because of main cap failures, and lots of head gaskets blow, but who has a problem with stock rods/bolts? I would say main cap studs and ARP head bolts are a must, but I put my money elsewhere for the rod bolts. Someone did say that ARP bolts locate the cap better than the SPS bolts, and that would be an advantage. I haven't tried them, but the stock SPS bolts don't locate the cap very well. That's just my opinion, but if it makes you sleep better at night-go for it!

-Jeff
 
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