jim homick
Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
could anybody offer any tips for racing on a true street radial? i have bfg 275/60-15. thanks in advance, jim.
street radials
- Thread starter jim homick
- Start date
Practice and find a good track. A track with good prep will hook decent if your suspension works good. I ran a 11.92 @114 with a 1.83 60 ft on BFG radial TA 275/50/15. Tire pressures around 20 or below and big burnouts also work good. I ran 14 psi in some cheap 275/60/15's. Most people and magazines contradict that, but I race in a true radial class and that's what works best for us. I launch off of the tranny brake with about 4 psi of boost. Every car is different, you'll just have to see what yours likes. Good luck and have fun.
PsychoBuickBoy
The Money Pit
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I ran a 1.84 60' on Pep Boy's Futura radials. I lit them up good in the burn-out box and launched with about 1-2 psi and they stuck! Although I couldn't duplicate it again I was pretty impressed.
Donald McMullin
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Kansas T, I have a question regarding your experience with street radials.
Does tire siping help or hurt dry traction. I know siping is used for snow and ice, but was wondering if anyone has tested the dry traction at a drag strip.
I am looking at running in a clase that allows only street radial tires of a wear rating of greater than 180. I have not found a 15-inch tire in the 255 to 275 x 60 range of anything better than 440.
Feel free to e-mail me direct.
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
Does tire siping help or hurt dry traction. I know siping is used for snow and ice, but was wondering if anyone has tested the dry traction at a drag strip.
I am looking at running in a clase that allows only street radial tires of a wear rating of greater than 180. I have not found a 15-inch tire in the 255 to 275 x 60 range of anything better than 440.
Feel free to e-mail me direct.
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
I have never tried siping and I dont think anyone I race with is either. Several of us do use tire softeners though. I have tried Formula V (the pink stuff), but I dont think it helps on new tires. On older harder tires it might . Its put on before you go to the track. I've also used VHT track bite and it seems to help alittle, but you have to put that on before each pass (it might not be legal in your class). The 275/50/15 BFG Radial TA's that I run have a tread wear rating of 400. The 255/60/16 BFG Radial TA's also have a tread wear rating of 400(according to The Tire Rack). The fastest car in the class is using a 255/70/15 Grand Am (from COOP I think) with a tread wear rating of 440. He cuts high 1.6 60 fts in his Camaro and has gone 10.80's. I dont think the brand of tire matters much, its mostly the driver and car setup. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Donald McMullin
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Thanks for the reply, I know this post is a bit dated. I have used Track Claw on my drag radials. Around here (the Phoenix area)the both tracks have a lot of sand and gravel in the pit areas, therefore, I end up picking up a lot of rocks between rounds which hurts my 60-ft times after the first pass. When the tires are clean at the first pass the Track Claw helps, but after that my 60-ft times drop.
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
toddmingnworld
Undead1
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
Building Boost
OK....Don't laugh too hard now but here's my question..I have had my GN only since August of 01 and have done a few mod's to it but since I'm a new TR owner I'm allowed to ask a couple of dumb questions.lol....
How do I build boost lets say between 8-10 psi's @launch??
My boost is currrently set to 18 psi's with a Red 93 chip..It seems like the car is slow to get off the line but once it gets going its faster than hell....Seems like there's alot of technique involved with racing these cars?
Mods: Stock Turbo, THDP, 42.5 Injectors, ATR Pit-bull Exhaust, Airbag, Red Chip, Red Fuel Pump, Stainless Cross-over Pipe, Adjustable Wastergate, Boost Controller.....
*Planned summer mods include cold air kit, Racing Plenum, Suspension work (Bushings, Shocks etc...) Headers.
Todd
OK....Don't laugh too hard now but here's my question..I have had my GN only since August of 01 and have done a few mod's to it but since I'm a new TR owner I'm allowed to ask a couple of dumb questions.lol....
How do I build boost lets say between 8-10 psi's @launch??
My boost is currrently set to 18 psi's with a Red 93 chip..It seems like the car is slow to get off the line but once it gets going its faster than hell....Seems like there's alot of technique involved with racing these cars?
Mods: Stock Turbo, THDP, 42.5 Injectors, ATR Pit-bull Exhaust, Airbag, Red Chip, Red Fuel Pump, Stainless Cross-over Pipe, Adjustable Wastergate, Boost Controller.....
*Planned summer mods include cold air kit, Racing Plenum, Suspension work (Bushings, Shocks etc...) Headers.
Todd
Basically stand on the brake pedal as hard as you can until your face looks like this 
then press down on the gas pedal, about 1/4-1/2 throttle. Boost will start rising and when it gets as high as you want let off the brake pedal and floor the accelerator.
You need to power brake it w/o the rear tires spinning.
ks
then press down on the gas pedal, about 1/4-1/2 throttle. Boost will start rising and when it gets as high as you want let off the brake pedal and floor the accelerator.You need to power brake it w/o the rear tires spinning.
ks
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Slo leaving
w/ a stock turbo those 42.5pph inj's are a bit big and that, combined w/ red's chip, [most I've seen are fat on the low end] will cause the car to leave slow due to being fat.
Where is the FP? Do you have a scan tool? If so, where are the readings for blm, O2, MAF, etc??
Using race gas?
As for the hi boost leaves, that will be dependent on how well the brakes hold. [Some folks use a brake system mod to help w/ holding at the line.]
Without a good tire, brakes, and rear suspension, a 10psi leave will most likely result in ALOT of tire spin. Suggest you have someone watch the leave and see what's happening to the tires and suspension and go from there.
As for the "summer mods". I'd forget the headers until you have the car in the 10's. Stock headers will get you there easily. Spend your money on a turbo, converter, and the suspension . You will be far ahead in the bank acct that way!
PS: Before you do anything else, get the scan tool and some reliable gauges. Then you can tune w/ certainty.
HTH,
w/ a stock turbo those 42.5pph inj's are a bit big and that, combined w/ red's chip, [most I've seen are fat on the low end] will cause the car to leave slow due to being fat.
Where is the FP? Do you have a scan tool? If so, where are the readings for blm, O2, MAF, etc??
Using race gas?
As for the hi boost leaves, that will be dependent on how well the brakes hold. [Some folks use a brake system mod to help w/ holding at the line.]
Without a good tire, brakes, and rear suspension, a 10psi leave will most likely result in ALOT of tire spin. Suggest you have someone watch the leave and see what's happening to the tires and suspension and go from there.
As for the "summer mods". I'd forget the headers until you have the car in the 10's. Stock headers will get you there easily. Spend your money on a turbo, converter, and the suspension . You will be far ahead in the bank acct that way!
PS: Before you do anything else, get the scan tool and some reliable gauges. Then you can tune w/ certainty.
HTH,
toddmingnworld
Undead1
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
Building Boost
@Kevin....Thanks for the tips, I'll try those out and see what happens..
@Chuck...I have the important gauges (Oil & Water and of course a 30IB Boost gauge) With regard to the stock headers, the passenger side header was cracked and my mechanic welded it for me but warned that I should bank on replacing them in the near future though....The Red 93 chip coupled with the 42.5 Injectors was the combo recommended by the shop (White Racing in Michigan Suppose it TR Specialists??) Btw Chuck how much will a cold air kit help my TR u think and how much attention do u think I should give to my suspension??(My shocks are gone and I need bushing bad per mechanic)
Thanks,
Todd
@Kevin....Thanks for the tips, I'll try those out and see what happens..
@Chuck...I have the important gauges (Oil & Water and of course a 30IB Boost gauge) With regard to the stock headers, the passenger side header was cracked and my mechanic welded it for me but warned that I should bank on replacing them in the near future though....The Red 93 chip coupled with the 42.5 Injectors was the combo recommended by the shop (White Racing in Michigan Suppose it TR Specialists??) Btw Chuck how much will a cold air kit help my TR u think and how much attention do u think I should give to my suspension??(My shocks are gone and I need bushing bad per mechanic)
Thanks,
Todd
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
???'s
Todd, the Mi. shop must think you are going to upgrade the turbo to put that much injector in an unmodified engine. T-44/49's work well w/ inj's that size.
As for the header, if the "mechanic" didn't weld it w/ the proper weld, he'll be right in a couple yrs, or less.. it'll split again!!
As for the cold air intake. I'd use the big mouth sold by Mark Hueffman. I like it. have installed 1 on my son's car.
The suspension:
All new bushings, preferably poly w/ aftermkt upper and lower arms or at the minimum, boxed stockers.
[Need to get the pinion angle to somewhere in the 3-4* position too. Requires adj. upper arms]
Springs are most likely gone along w/ the shocks.
I'd go w/ stock replacement springs. [unless yoou want to lower the car.]
While you are under there, a new set of poly body bushings will stiffen the chassis too.!!
For the money for a driver, I use the KYB's. They are a good shock for the money.
When you do the springs, add a pair of air bags.
When you do the bushings, do the ones in the axle hsg too.
A set of S-10 non pwr rear wheel cylinders and soft shoes on the rear will help holding the boost on the launch. Buy 2 sets of soft shoes and use the longer shoes as pairs.
While you are at it, drain and flush the Powermaster... This should be done every couple years.
Don't neglect the ft suspension. Poor alignment can scrub alot of horsepower.!
HTH,
Todd, the Mi. shop must think you are going to upgrade the turbo to put that much injector in an unmodified engine. T-44/49's work well w/ inj's that size.
As for the header, if the "mechanic" didn't weld it w/ the proper weld, he'll be right in a couple yrs, or less.. it'll split again!!
As for the cold air intake. I'd use the big mouth sold by Mark Hueffman. I like it. have installed 1 on my son's car.
The suspension:
All new bushings, preferably poly w/ aftermkt upper and lower arms or at the minimum, boxed stockers.
[Need to get the pinion angle to somewhere in the 3-4* position too. Requires adj. upper arms]
Springs are most likely gone along w/ the shocks.
I'd go w/ stock replacement springs. [unless yoou want to lower the car.]
While you are under there, a new set of poly body bushings will stiffen the chassis too.!!
For the money for a driver, I use the KYB's. They are a good shock for the money.
When you do the springs, add a pair of air bags.
When you do the bushings, do the ones in the axle hsg too.
A set of S-10 non pwr rear wheel cylinders and soft shoes on the rear will help holding the boost on the launch. Buy 2 sets of soft shoes and use the longer shoes as pairs.
While you are at it, drain and flush the Powermaster... This should be done every couple years.
Don't neglect the ft suspension. Poor alignment can scrub alot of horsepower.!
HTH,
BlackBeauty
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2001
With these 275's, are you mounting them on stock (or other 7") rims? I want to keep a stock appearance, unfortunately 7" isn't wide enough. If you mount 275's on the 7" rim, will the tire bow?
Donald McMullin
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
If you are worried about the stock rims being too narrow, look for previous posts on having stock rims made wider (8-inches).
Contact:
Trudesign Wheel Inc.
Custom Wheel Builders
5890 N. Washington St. #4
Denver, CO. 80216
303-296-2585
fax 303-296-7665
They can also re-work stock T-Type wheels into different widths.
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
Contact:
Trudesign Wheel Inc.
Custom Wheel Builders
5890 N. Washington St. #4
Denver, CO. 80216
303-296-2585
fax 303-296-7665
They can also re-work stock T-Type wheels into different widths.
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
toddmingnworld
Undead1
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
Building Boost
Chuck,
Thanks for all the helpful information I really appreciate it....The shop I selected to "baby" my TR...lol.. is pretty reputable & trustworthy....Given my car was a stolen recovery and already heavily modified before I got it they really took care of it and me fixing and repairing little things without charging me..It idles and runs great...actually runs better than my 99 Camry...lol....
With regard to the suspension (Springs and Shocks) I'm not too mechanically inclined so most work I have done for me...How much do think it was run me out of pocket to knock out the Springs and Shocks at the same time?? Thanks again for your words of wisdom regarding my TR.....
Todd
Chuck,
Thanks for all the helpful information I really appreciate it....The shop I selected to "baby" my TR...lol.. is pretty reputable & trustworthy....Given my car was a stolen recovery and already heavily modified before I got it they really took care of it and me fixing and repairing little things without charging me..It idles and runs great...actually runs better than my 99 Camry...lol....
With regard to the suspension (Springs and Shocks) I'm not too mechanically inclined so most work I have done for me...How much do think it was run me out of pocket to knock out the Springs and Shocks at the same time?? Thanks again for your words of wisdom regarding my TR.....
Todd
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