switching from syenthic to 'real' oil..

[Vendor Defendor]

is it a bad idea to do this? just wondering, because i have something knocking in my motor, either a pushrod or a lifter. and it seems only to knock when i have 'warm' oil. so i was thinking of going to something heavier and real. i used to run SAE 40 in my el camino, and am thinking of running it in this car. btw right now i have 10w-30 Mobil 1 in there now.

thanks for any suggestions

-Neil

 

[1NASTY6]

great question!

I'd like to know the answer to this question myself...

Does anyone out there have experience with switching from, say, Mobil 1 to a "traditional" 10w-30 brand??

I'm just actually curious and looking for some feedback!

 

[XxDarkSidexX]

i have an undiagnoced ping too, but im pretty sure its my wrist pins or a lifter. but i use 10w-40 and it helped a lot!

 

[onefastjackass]

I would go to a multi weight not a straight 40 weight.Also are you sure it's inside the engine.Mine has a ticking that sounds just like a lifter but I am pritty sure it is a exhaust gasket leak.

Remember that these cars often get cracked manifolds that sound like a lifter.

 

[Red Regal T]

There is no downside to this changeover. I'd recommend this to anyone. There is no downside. The upside is that it will no longer cost you $24 for 6qts of oil to get the same or better lubrication you can get for $9. 10W40 or 20W50 is good for hot weather.

 

[BoostKillsStres]

I would stay with a multiweight oil maybe try a 10w40 although the greater the viscosity difference the less stable the oil is over time.

As far as switching back to a dino oil, the oil pump doesn't care whats there, its gonna pump it be it dino, dino/synth blend or straight synth. So, go with whatcha like, I run havoline synth since its usually 2.99 everyday at advance auto but I did run dino for 1000 miles after changing my timing chain to help flush the system then back to the synth.

HTH

 

[Ormand]

Aside from the fact that it will crud up the engine a lot quicker, there's no reason not to run "fossil" oil. You can get the same thing with a heavier synthetic, but maybe they aren't available where you are. Some years ago, I ran STP to accomplish the same thing, don't remember any serious problems that I could blame on the STP. If you don't drive a lot, and chance oil often, the regular oil won't make that much sludge, and won't be a problem. I stick with the synthetic, like lots of folks, because it won't gum up the turbo bearings nearly as quickly as "dino".

 

[Red Regal T]

Aside from the fact that it will crud up the engine a lot quicker, there's no reason not to run "fossil" oil.

This statement is crud.

If you don't drive a lot, and chance oil often, the regular oil won't make that much sludge, and won't be a problem.

If you check my sig, you'll see that most guys don't drive more than me. I have no sludge and have never had any in any car that I've ever owned. This is a fairy tale. Anybody who doesn't change oil often, deserves what they get.

I stick with the synthetic, like lots of folks, because it won't gum up the turbo bearings nearly as quickly as "dino".

This is just the hype the oil companies put out with their claim that the synthetics are better so you can pay more. You believe it if you want, but to me, I believe my own eyes.

 

[49-blues]

Why not try a 50/50 blend like castrol oil makes $2.00- $2.50 a qt, works well and guess it gets the advantages of both types of oil. definently feel an improvement over just conventional oil. im using it in all my cars.

 

[GNX]

I go with the PROS on this. John Craig who has seen thousands of turbos, said that he can tell when he tears the turbos down whether they have used synthetic or not. Less wear with syn.

Synthetic will hold up better than a dino oil...it's been proven under racing conditions for years. I was on a NASCAR team and when the engines were tested...THIS IS UNDER SEVERE ABUSE...the synthetics showed way less wear on the bearing.

Dino will definetly COKE in a hard running turbo according to John Craig, whereas Synthetic won't.

It may take 200,300, 500? thousand miles...but there WILL be a difference in the look and wear of the bearings +.?...

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by GNX


It may take 200,300, 500? thousand miles...but there WILL be a difference in the look and wear of the bearings +.?...

Well, that doesn't concern or include anyone here. All the cars on this board have under 50,000 miles.

 

[Vendor Defendor]

Originally posted by Red Regal T
Well, that doesn't concern or include anyone here. All the cars on this board have under 50,000 miles.

my car has 62,000 on it

-Neil

 

[GNX]

Originally posted by GNX It may take 200,300, 500? thousand miles...but there WILL be a difference in the look and wear of the bearings +.?...

That was my GUESS! Notice I said MAY?

Just spoke to one of the engine builders. He said he can tell microscopically what oil has been used (dino vs. synthetic) in under 5,000 (street driving) or ONE RACE!

He said with the tests they've done, Valvoline (Turbo?) held up the best for a dino oil. Something about using the best base stock? He also said that dino is OK, but if you are going for the longest time between rebuilds, synthetic will outperform dino oil.

I've gotta go with the EXPERTS opinion!

 

[equalizer442]

put a bottle of MMM in there on your next oil change, if its a lifter it will clear it up

 

[denn454]

i've seen a lot of stuff on this, personally i like synthetic oil more. i had a very slow vega before i got my buick, it was slower than a lot of power wheels and any little thing was noticable. i switched to synthetic and it made a noticable difference. I've seen tests (i think in carcraft or hotrod) that showed a 20hp gain in a v8 at the fly wheel. to me i would give credit to less friction, less friction = less wear. just my oppinion, maybe since ive seed the difference firsthand. you could try tome lucus oil stuff, it works pretty good.

 

[Vendor Defendor]

Originally posted by equalizer442
put a bottle of MMM in there on your next oil change, if its a lifter it will clear it up

what is this? how much is it? and has anyone else ever tried this? just wondering, dont wanna ruin something

thanks

-Neil

 

[denn454]

marvil mystery oil. its a really light oil, its the same stuff (or close anyways) to the oil used in k&n filters if you have used that. i don't know if it would help much out in the engine but i've never used it.

 

[Ormand]

Red Regal, I'm retired, but my pension will cover the cost of the synthetic. You can kid yourself, and say the dino oil is "just as good" but there is too much science on the other side of the argument. (Some of it noted above) Dino WILL make more tar and varnish. It's possible to change often enough with dino to keep the stuff under control, but in the long run, the synth is better, and if you change the oil more often with the dino, you aren't even saving money. Your reply to my previous post implies some kind of sensitivity on this subject. Maybe you've been oiled up before?