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TE61 vs TA60

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streetknight

DCVING
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
1,105
I'm gonna be running a stock long block, 3" THDP, MSD 50's, Razor's Alky, and upgraded converter for whichever turbo I buy.

Which will be a better choice?

How fast have people went with similar combo with these turbos?

Also, what is the "big difference" between a TA series from a TE series. I know the inlet bell, but I heard something about the actuator being different?

I already have a new HD actuator off a friends TA60. Will this work if I buy a TE? If not, what do I need?

Thanks
 
According to Chopper, at Craig Limited, the TA-TE difference is less then 3%.
 
The actuator should bolt right up, you shouldnt need anything else. Holla at me Ben if you have a question about something. :cool:
 
Wheel is bigger on the 61.

The actuator has a different bracket on the TA vs TE
 
you can go mid 10s with a Te61

I have a PT54 turbo, which I believe is the same turbo as a TE61, and I have run 6.77 @102 in the 1/8th which equates to a mid 10 in the 1/4.
 
Originally posted by Grandnat
you can go mid 10s with a Te61

I have a PT54 turbo, which I believe is the same turbo as a TE61, and I have run 6.77 @102 in the 1/8th which equates to a mid 10 in the 1/4.

Only if it stays together :eek:

:D
 
Have you guys actually blown up a PT54/TE61s in the past or know someone who has?



or is it just that anytime you push a turbo to it's limit, failure is probable?
 
We are talking about the rest of the motor holding together for the 2nd half of the track...where it counts.
;)
 
Something bout igniting a bottle rocket and keeping it from popping ;)

The smaller the turbo at higher flow..the more heat it will generate.. the 1/8 mile is fine and dandy..issue is go past that... or a top end pull on a highway.. temps can come up pretty fierce.

Most issues are usually past the 1/8 mile marker :)
 
Originally posted by Razor
Most issues are usually past the 1/8 mile marker

Actually, while alot of problems start in the last 200' of the 1/4 mile, it's immediately after a run that generates the most failures.

A steel connecting rod can take ALOT of compression force, without distortion. BUT, in tension, it can bend rather easily.

When the butterflies snap closed there is a hellva vacuum in the manifold, and when the intake valve is opening, it put a huge tension load on the rod. And while most people think it's a compression load that bends rods, which in the case of detonation, is true, from a metal fatique *normal* failure, it's again as the piston rocks past TDC overlap the stretches the rod to failure. It's one of the reasons you can get *more* reliable HP from a boosted motor then N/A, is due to the load at *rock over* being lessened since boost is filling the cylinder, rather then the piston having to wait for atmospheric pressure to fill the expanding cavity above it.

The last I heard (it's been years, thou), Carrillo did't suggest using their rods in S/C, T/C applications, saying their rods were best suited for N/A use. In N/A you want H beam rods, and I beam for T/C, S/C applications.

Again, long stories made short.
N, I'm still not running 9s so you might not want to take me too seriously.
 
Originally posted by RICHIE HIGH PSI
We are talking about the rest of the motor holding together for the 2nd half of the track...where it counts.
;)

I do not know if this is a dig at me for posting 1/8th mile times or not....however I would like to add that I have also ran quicker and faster times than you in the 1/4 mile as well... and I am doing it with a MUCH smaller turbo and probably a heavier car at #3700lbs w/driver


;)
 
Grandnat,

Just Florida trash talking... :D

You know White cars are faster than Black cars.. Rite Richie :)
 
Originally posted by Grandnat
I do not know if this is a dig at me for posting 1/8th mile times or not....however I would like to add that I have also ran quicker and faster times than you in the 1/4 mile as well... and I am doing it with a MUCH smaller turbo and probably a heavier car at #3700lbs w/driver


My car weighs 3750 w/me, and those times are on pump gas.
I was not making fun of your times.
Many people think they have a fast car with there 1/8th mile times, but they have no idea what it will do in the 1/4.
 
Originally posted by RICHIE HIGH PSI

My car weighs 3750 w/me, and those times are on pump gas.
I was not making fun of your times.
Many people think they have a fast car with there 1/8th mile times, but they have no idea what it will do in the 1/4.


Pump gas with alky is not "PUMP" gas!
If thats the case then my runs were on Pump gas too!
( if you consider 50/50% 114oct/93oct pump gas)

Whats the differance? alky is an alternative fuel much the same way that race fuel is. They both add octane and allow higher dynamic compression ratios.


and it has been my experience without exception that I can predict, within reasonable accuracy, my 1/4 mile times based on my 1/8th ET,mph and my 60ft.

I have enough 1/4 slips to accurately make that statement.
 
Originally posted by Grandnat
Pump gas with alky is not "PUMP" gas!
If thats the case then my runs were on Pump gas too!
( if you consider 50/50% 114oct/93oct pump gas)

Whats the differance? alky is an alternative fuel much the same way that race fuel is. They both add octane and allow higher dynamic compression ratios.


Not if you mixed the race gas with the pump gas. Once you mix it with any oxidizer or fuel, then it's not *pump* gas. Heck, you can call race gas pump gas, if you want. After all it came form a pump.
Pump gas generally is accepted to mean 91-93 octane gasoline.

You can get about the same results with Water Injection.

Alky/Water Injection are about charge, and in-cylinder cooling. A google for NACA, and in cylinder cooling will reveal the tech papers, and original research on the matter.
 
Originally posted by bruce
Not if you mixed the race gas with the pump gas. Once you mix it with any oxidizer or fuel, then it's not *pump* gas. Heck, you can call race gas pump gas, if you want. After all it came form a pump.
Pump gas generally is accepted to mean 91-93 octane gasoline.

You can get about the same results with Water Injection.

Alky/Water Injection are about charge, and in-cylinder cooling. A google for NACA, and in cylinder cooling will reveal the tech papers, and original research on the matter.

Bruce... I have read those paper when you posted them a while back... and you are missing my point.

MY point is, once you mix pump gas with anything it is no longer just "pump gas"

once you change the detonation resistance by introducing another variable, (whether it be chemical or physical, such as in the case of water injection) it is no longer pump gas, and I am tired of people who run alky or water injection saying they ran "x" time on "pump" gas.

that is just bull****.... does anyone else feel this way???

This does not include physical bolt on additions that alter dynamic compression (ie intercooler, cam, heads, pistons etc etc, I am mainly talking about water\alky)

I have nothing against alky, more power to ya if you choose to use it... but don't go around quoteing pump gas times when in reality it is ALKY/water injection times you are quoteing.

Pump gas means PUMP GAS... you went to the local gas staion filled up thats it.
 
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