turbowrenchhead
Drive like you stole it!
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- May 25, 2001
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- 854
It still has to be welded up by a professional. So far I have 80 dollars into it with the larger puck from Turbomike.
Terry Houston style dp pics
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It still has to be welded up by a professional. So far I have 80 dollars into it with the larger puck from Turbomike.
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
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- May 24, 2001
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LOOKS GOOD SO FAR BUT I THINK ITS A LITTLE TOO SHORT...
turbowrenchhead
Drive like you stole it!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
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It is getting hooked up to an ATR dp.
turbowrenchhead
Drive like you stole it!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 854
I don't know if I would want to. I had to run all over the county to get this thing going. Not to metion the 2 hours I spent on it cutting and polishing. I think anyone with a hacksaw and a die grinder could do it. All you need is a stock elbow, a 3 inch elbow from napa and a piece of regular stock exhaust pipe to make the puck housing. I am sure I could of done what the exhaust shop did after I seen how they did it, but they only charged me 20 bucks. But I am having a professional welder do the rest. When I get the atr dp. I will have the local exhaust shop fit it all up and put in a couple 2 bolts flat flanges or donut flanges so it will come out without having to pull the header off.
I think I am the first person to do something like this. Correct me if I am wrong. I have never seen anyone attmepting this.
Has anyone?
I think I am the first person to do something like this. Correct me if I am wrong. I have never seen anyone attmepting this.
Has anyone?
turbowrenchhead
Drive like you stole it!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 854
I have another pic if anyone wants to see it. I can't get it to work on the ftp site. Email me if anone wants to see it.
That's ME!!!
But mine started out as a true TH upper that was cut and reangled and mated up to an Action Fab 3" lower...
As I've stated many times before, if I were to do it again, I'd have it made at the biggest 2 3/4" and the least 2 1/2"...In the hotair turbo location, you are limited on turbo size to roughly about the stock size turbo's(outside physical dimensions), which limits your airflow into and out of the motor...IMO, you just can't put a big enough turbo on the motor to outflow the 2 3/4" piping on these 84/5 configuration motors, period...
Just today, I pulled my pass side upper control arm to put in a rebuilt one(new bushings and upper ball joint)...That had to have been one of the biggest PITA's that I have had to do on this car(next to changing pass side spark plugs) with that d*mn 3" DP in the way...Try clicking a 1/2" Craftsman ratchet 1 click at a time to take the control arm alignment nuts completely off of the shaft so that the control arm will come off...
Note: If you need to change your upper control arm bushings, DO IT WHILE YOU HAVE THE DP AND HEADER OUT OF THE CAR!!! And change your spark plugs on the pass side, too...Trust me on this one...Oh yeah, be prepared to have the DP hit the upper control arm, the ac/heater box, the firewall, etc...It will be tight...Don't say I didn't warn you...
edit
btw, so far that looks pretty good...
But mine started out as a true TH upper that was cut and reangled and mated up to an Action Fab 3" lower...
As I've stated many times before, if I were to do it again, I'd have it made at the biggest 2 3/4" and the least 2 1/2"...In the hotair turbo location, you are limited on turbo size to roughly about the stock size turbo's(outside physical dimensions), which limits your airflow into and out of the motor...IMO, you just can't put a big enough turbo on the motor to outflow the 2 3/4" piping on these 84/5 configuration motors, period...
Just today, I pulled my pass side upper control arm to put in a rebuilt one(new bushings and upper ball joint)...That had to have been one of the biggest PITA's that I have had to do on this car(next to changing pass side spark plugs) with that d*mn 3" DP in the way...Try clicking a 1/2" Craftsman ratchet 1 click at a time to take the control arm alignment nuts completely off of the shaft so that the control arm will come off...
Note: If you need to change your upper control arm bushings, DO IT WHILE YOU HAVE THE DP AND HEADER OUT OF THE CAR!!! And change your spark plugs on the pass side, too...Trust me on this one...Oh yeah, be prepared to have the DP hit the upper control arm, the ac/heater box, the firewall, etc...It will be tight...Don't say I didn't warn you...
edit
btw, so far that looks pretty good...
Have you trial fitted on the motor yet??? Do you have the ac/heater box still on the car??? It just looks to me like that 3" main pipe isn't going to clear the ac/heater box when looking at a pic of mine installed in my car compared to the pic of yours...It seems like the angle where the pipe meets the flange needs to be steeper on the side opposite the flapper...Might be just an optical delusion or something 
If you can, get a pic of it(just that upper piece) installed on your car before you get it all welded up...I'd like to see it...
edit I just looked at my pics again compared to yours and you'll probably be ok...it's actually the side of the pipe to the right of the flapper on your pic that will be closest to the ac/heater box...
By all means, put a 2 bolt flange to connect that piece to the lower section of DP...I've found that a band clamp didn't work too well and if you use a muffler clamp, you have a heckuva time getting the 2 pieces apart...
If you can, get a pic of it(just that upper piece) installed on your car before you get it all welded up...I'd like to see it...
edit I just looked at my pics again compared to yours and you'll probably be ok...it's actually the side of the pipe to the right of the flapper on your pic that will be closest to the ac/heater box...
By all means, put a 2 bolt flange to connect that piece to the lower section of DP...I've found that a band clamp didn't work too well and if you use a muffler clamp, you have a heckuva time getting the 2 pieces apart...
I have the Lee Thompson 3" pipe that comes straight out of the turbo TH style. I had to cut and modify it a little to clear the KB headers but it has a ton of clearance on the heater box and it's a little tight by the upper control arm because I had to move it outward about 6" to clear the headers but it only hits if I bottom the car out which pretty much never happens. If that pipe hadn't been modified for the headers it would probably never hit anything. It's a shame it's not made anymore.
cool84, I haven't seen the KB headers in person, but is there a little bit more room between the ac/heater box and the flange where the turbo up-pipe bolts to compared to the stock headers??? Then again, I do have Poston's 84/5 headers on mine, so I think that the up-pipe flange on the header is a little thicker around the pipe there, decreasing my clearance some...
turbowrenchhead
Drive like you stole it!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 854
FJM568, I am getting a atr 2 1/2 dp. I will bring it up as far as I can to the flange and then reduce the flange down.
i've got lee thompson headers and 3" downpipe and the dp is 3 pieces for a reason!
i tried pulling my spark plugs without pulling the top piece of the dp off,i probably could have done it but it would have sucked.it only takes a couple of minutes to pull the top piece off and then you have a clear shot at the plugs and you get to inspect the exhaust side of your turbo.
later,sean
i tried pulling my spark plugs without pulling the top piece of the dp off,i probably could have done it but it would have sucked.it only takes a couple of minutes to pull the top piece off and then you have a clear shot at the plugs and you get to inspect the exhaust side of your turbo
.later,sean
turbowrenchhead
Drive like you stole it!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
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Got a call from the welder tonight. He charged me 80 dollars for the welding on it. He said that cast welding rod is very expensive. He also smothed it out on the inside for flow. I could of done that but oh well. I now have 160 dollars into this flange and it still has to be surfaced and when I get it hooked up I am pulling it back off and have the visable part of dp ceramic coated.
Damn, I totally forgot about the drier not being there. It's been so long since it's been on the car I forgot it's supposed to be there. I just got a new condensor, evaporator, and a low mileage compressor so I could have AC again. I'm going to have to figure out way to make it work I guess. And to think I've been wondering why everyone has clearance problems.
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