THDP bolts from Lowes!

[turbojimmy]

Hi all,

I've never had any trouble getting the bolts out of my THDP before, but since I'm racing today the TR Gods were making my little header gasket change as difficult as possible. I snapped the head off of one bolt and had to saw another one off with a hacksaw. I was able to remove both broken bolts with vise grips. But where to get special bolts on a Saturday afternoon? The guy at the auto parts store said "Lowes". I was skeptical but I went anyway. Sure enough, they had EXACTLY the right bolts (cap screws with the Allen's head). They actually have a lot of automotive-type fasteners if you look in the right drawer.

If you're ever in a bind, check Lowes. Their hours are better than most auto parts stores 'round here.

Jim

 

[John Larkin]

Just be careful if you go nuts one day and decide to install some stainless bolts. I guess no matter where you buy them they can seize and gall. BTDT. Next time I used gobs of anti-seize and no problems afterward. Lowes is a pretty good auto parts store for some stuff. I've spent as much there as Auto Zone.

 

[pacecarta]

home depot probably put more ponies under my hood than any thing ive done to date and it only cost me .38 , that was for the 1/4 rod coupler and 2 1/4 nuts to make my stock wastegate adjustable
they are also good for the eyebolt for the alternator and the ratchet tiedown holding my motor

 

[turbojimmy]

I did use gobs of Never Seez on the Lowes bolts. On the header bolts too. Seems to work great. I got lazy last time I had the turbo off and didn't use the Never Seez, hence my problems this time around.

Jim

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by pacecarta
home depot probably put more ponies under my hood than any thing ive done to date and it only cost me .38 , that was for the 1/4 rod coupler and 2 1/4 nuts to make my stock wastegate adjustable
they are also good for the eyebolt for the alternator and the ratchet tiedown holding my motor

But Home Depot positively SUCKS for anything else. Their stainless metric fastener selection is crap. The mom and pop up the street has heat treated grade 8, super-sized Home Depot has almost nothing.

 

[SITHV6]

I Have similar header bolt worries...

after reading a post here a while back about ARP having our header studs available i ordered them to protect my GN1s from getting stripped and wanted the peace of mind. after getting the studs i was happy til i noticed that on ATR headers on the Drivers side theres these two holes that had longer than the rest bolt sleeves that required me to get them eleswhere...theres a neat place down here called Mitchells nut and bolts (a fasteners toy box of sorts) and opted to get stainless allen socket heads for both the 2 header holes and my valve covers...after reading this post..it just reminded me to remind my mechanic to GLOB some anti-seize stuff on the bolts. sorry for the post...just wanted to share lol.

 

[gnxtc2]

The problem with SS is that it is too soft. I had the same problem with the allen head SS screws. I changed them to the black grade 8 allen screws and no more problems. Since then I changed to the ARP hardened SS studs for the DP.

Remember, common bulk stainless steel fastners are like grade 5 fastners unless hardened.

And gob the anti-seize on and hopefully you don't get any on you or will find anti-seize on everything you touch.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[J-Rod]

The other issue is stainless on stainless tends to gall. You need to be careful and use lots of never-seize.

 

[MSDGN]

I also find that the THDP bolts crack loose easier if the turbo is hot...so if I know I'm going to be taking the pipe off I get the engine/turbo up to operating temp then crack the bolts loose and when everything cools off they come right out...