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Thermostat...something simple

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This is a helpful article, thanks for posting! Here are my experiences, I'm in the process of replacing the thermostat on my '86 GN.

1) Bought a Stant 160° t-stat; indeed, I had to cut it down with tin snips as it wouldn't fit the hole in the block. I filed it smooth so there were no burrs. The unit I removed was a 180° unit.

2) I had to remove the up pipe, MAF/Turbo pipe; I had a helluva time removing the S hose however, as whomever installed it before positioned the front/lower clamp in such a way that the screw-head was facing directly to the passenger side of the car, instead of up. I had to loosen this to be able to remove the S hose; loosening the upper/block-side clamp wasn't enough for me to pop it off and out of the way of the thermostat housing retaining clip.

3) Once I had the S hose off, I reattached the upper rad hose to the t-stat housing and the housing popped off rather easily just by firmly jiggling the upper hose back & forth.

I decided I didn't want to re-use the original O-ring so I'm picking up a new t-stat housing after work today...I assume they come with the O-ring?

Thanks again for the how-to!
 
Chances are the 'stat will not come with the o-ring because the thermostats fit cars that do not have an O-ring.

The o-rings are a common part with GM's.
 
My t-stat housing included the O-ring in the box. The O-ring is specific to the housing so it would seem odd for it not to be included. I wouldn't expect an O-ring to come with the t-stat, just as gaskets never come with t-stats either. At any rate, my coolant puking issues haven't been resolved...looks like I might be buying a radiator soon.
 
One thing I add as insurance on most O-rings...a little swipe around with some Anerobic Sealer..or as GM calls it, Gasket Maker...
I am sure I will get flak for this, but after 20+ years in the automotive repair industry and now a decade in industrial maintenance, this is some the greatest stuff since sliced bread...next to the new and improved GM sealant....


 
I probably should've updated this thread. I installed a new F-body rad, added an external oil cooler, used the existing 5/16" steel lines & couplers previously connecting the OEM oil cooler lines to the rad to connect to my tranny cooler lines instead (some careful cutting/flaring/pipe bending was necessary), and after some issues with being sold the wrong fittings for the oil cooler (leaking 2 lines of oil everywhere) and getting the correct NPT fittings, the car drives cool, leak-free, and no more coolant puke-ups.
 
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