tips on installing front springs

Way2QWK

Turbo Spooled by CORN
Joined
May 25, 2001
I just cant get the new front coil springs in. Ive used a couple different spring compressors but no luck. What is the best style compressor to use? Any tips or tricks.
 
Its a fun job isn't it?

My compressor is the internal 4 arm type. A long and a short arm at each end of the screw. I am assuming you got the old ones out already and your question is just the install.

Make sure the arms are hooked on well and are at least a turn and a bit away from the spring ends so they don't become trapped when you expand the spring in the car. I partially trapped one once after fighting to get everything in place and I nearly cut the tool apart rather than fight any more. After an initial squashing, I throw the whole thing on the floor to make sure it won't let go, then I crank her down.

I was surprised at how much I had to squash it to get the spring in. The GM manual explains how close you can bring the coils together before you damage the spring. Don't let the coils come any closer than about 3/16" if I recall correctly. The allowable spacing is a spring dependant number.

Make sure you get the spring seated properly around the upper perch fingers, the spring would be down by about an inch otherwise making it impossible to get in.

I found I had to keep squeezing the spring down bit by bit until I could get the control arm bolts in. The upper arm and spindle are all connected at this point. The floor jack lifts up on the inner most edge of the control arm (edge closest to car centerline) to give it the most leverage against the spring. Lifting under the spring pocket will only lift the car up in the air. The car lifts a bit anyway. Also I found the jack wanted to roll in under the car if I came in from the side so I pushed the jack in from the front so it wouldn't move on me.

Overall a scary job.
 
I hate coil springs

so your putting the spring in with lower control arm disconected from the frame?? From what I understand is, you have the upper ball joint connected to the spindle and the lower arm ball joint connected. Then you place the compressed spring on the lower arm a jack it up until you can get the bolts through the arm/frame.

Is this correct???
 
You are correct. This is the GM recommended method, primarily to protect the installer if the spring launches itself. Keep a chain on it to give it a leash of sorts.

In my 1971 Pontiac manual, the A-Body description is the opposite, leave the bolts in (loosened to allow bushings to swivel), break the bolt joint at the spindle and lower the control arm until spring flies out. Reverse to reinstall. The GM methods assume soft stock springs and use no compressor at all which I find amazing. If the is on a lift and you lower it down onto one of those tall fixed jack stands I can picture not needing a compressor but I couldn't do it without.

Look at the control arm and I think you will find the jack has more leverage by using the opened ball joint method, but it is less safe. I frigged with using the control arm bolt method leaving the ball joint intact.

The worst part was lifting the arm and getting the bolts holes to line up. I did it alone, with a buddy one of you could be shoving the assembly in or out to get the bolts to line up.
 
Thanks for the tips. I finally got the springs in and the rest of the suspension done. Major problem now. The car sits way to low, I replaced the stock spindles with the Belltech 2in drop spindles. I think with the drop spindles and the soft springs I put in it sits to low. My front Centerline rims wont work. The tires are hitting the top of the wheel well.
I hope the stock T-type wheels fit with the differant offset.
 
Spindles suck and do not maintain proper geometry. Pull 'em and assuming you're running adequate spring rate, trim springs.

-Matthew
 
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