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Tired of my door pull straps coming loose.

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LC2 ROD

The original LC2 ROD
Joined
Nov 4, 2002
Messages
465
Im done with the sheet metal screws coming loose for the door pull straps.
So I installed some rivnuts in the door, know I can use 1/4 by 20 screws, and can use blue threadlocker on them.
Its probably been done here before, just wanted to share.
 

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Im done with the sheet metal screws coming loose for the door pull straps.
So I installed some rivnuts in the door, know I can use 1/4 by 20 screws, and can use blue threadlocker on them.
Its probably been done here before, just wanted to share.


Where did you get the rivnuts, what special tool(s) are required?
 
Where did you get the rivnuts, what special tool(s) are required?

I would also like to know more about this. Those rivnuts look great. My screws come loose and end up pushing the plastic covers off when I open or close my doors and I end up loosing them. Haven't bothered to replace them since I couldn't find a permanent solution to keep the screws from backing out all the time.
 
That's pretty neat on the riv-nut. I always figured tack-welding a nut to the back of the door panel would do it too..
 
NICE!
I did that a few years ago as well.
I LOVE that tool. :cool:
Used it for the battery-body ground cables as well.

Dave,
It is a special tool, like a “rivet gun”.
Got mine at “Northern Tool”.
Get the 10-32 nuts and a step drill. :cool:
 
Thank You!

I am also at that point, I have new covers for the passanger side pull coming in and will need to address that fix 1st.

Thanks for the tip on what to do and also where to get the tool!
 
Yeah that mod works well for keeping them tight.
I removed my chrome strips off of my door upper completely as the chrome was start to bubble. SO now I dont have to worry with it.
 
Like I said, been done before :biggrin: . Ive been doing these for a few years.
The first one I did was to a customers car back in the early 90s.
Heres a few pics of what I use.
First one in the pic is the style that comes with the kit, called Poly nut. I dont use this style.
Next two I bought separately called Riv-nut or Rivet-nut, I think these work the best cause the head works better with thinner metals.
Middle one is made of steel, thats the one in the door.
Last one in the pic is made for aviation, high grade aluminum.
They install just like a rivet, and the aluminum installs easier.
Last pics are the tool to install.
 

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Yours has pic's though :biggrin: . I didn't have a digital camera at the time.

What this board needs is a good "how-to" or "write-up" section to collect all the fixes and repairs the Community Members have found over the years to keep these puppies going.
 
Like I said, been done before :biggrin: . Ive been doing these for a few years.
The first one I did was to a customers car back in the early 90s.
Heres a few pics of what I use.
First one in the pic is the style that comes with the kit, called Poly nut. I dont use this style.
Next two I bought separately called Riv-nut or Rivet-nut, I think these work the best cause the head works better with thinner metals.
Middle one is made of steel, thats the one in the door.
Last one in the pic is made for aviation, high grade aluminum.
They install just like a rivet, and the aluminum installs easier.
Last pics are the tool to install.

Riv-nuts, blind-nuts, this is the perfect tool kit to repair the door straps. Did mine 4 years ago and still hold strong. Used the 1/4 x 20 x 3/4 inch tapered screws. The taper permits replacing the strap covers easily.
 
This is also a great solution for those damn intercooler shroud screws. Plan on doing it to my dutt necked IC if I ever get it done.
 
Dave,
I have one of those guns if I can ever get a day free to drive the GN down by you Ill bring it with.
 
Dave,
I have one of those guns if I can ever get a day free to drive the GN down by you Ill bring it with.


Went to Northern Tool and bought one the other day, although it's not as nice as LC2Rod's set. I'll at least have something here for future use.
 
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