Tps

[Joe Kelsch]

My car is hesitant off idle (like once the throttle is pressed there's a dead spot). My TPS was set by a friend and I assume it's still set where he put it. When the motor is stopped in the idle postion its at .45 milivolts and .46 when the motor is running. When the motor's stopped at full depression its at 4.50 milivolts, I'm not sure about when its running though. Are these the right settings? If they are, what's wrong with my car? If it was my Skylark, I'd have a new accelerator pump in there and be on my way. I'm stumped with this car though.

The car's also having a crazy backfire issue too, that I think is related to timing. I have a cap with the light bulb in it on order, so I'll get into that when it shows up.

 

[Joe Kelsch]

Guess no one sets their TPS. What do you guys do, just stick it on and hope for the best?

 

[CS99]

.42 to .44 at idle. Engine off, throttle smashed to floor 4.50 minimum.

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

Go to this web site and do a search Turbo Regal Web Site. From what I can tell your TPS is set within range for idle. However, your on the low side for wide open throttle. The dead spot you have in the throtle could be what many call tip in stumble. This can be caused by chips that run a little richer than others. Setting your TPS can be tricky trying to satisfy both the idle and WOT it's a jugling act. Good Luck!!

 

[BADazzBUICK]

what chip do u have? I had reds chip with my 009s, and it really stumbled at take off. Turbo Tweak chip fixed that!!!

 

[Joe Kelsch]

what chip do u have? I had reds chip with my 009s, and it really stumbled at take off. Turbo Tweak chip fixed that!!!

I have a TT chip for stock injectors. I've cleaned my IAC after the TPS was set that's why I wasn't sure if it was where it was supposed to be. I could of bumped it, but I guess I didn't. Last year at this time I had a stock chip in there and it ran insanely rich. Even after the chip and plug change it was running rich. I pulled a plug yesterday and the electrode was white and the black on the porcelin, but it still backfires hard after a WOT blast (but not right away, it seems to load up first). I'm going to throw a new set of plugs (probably cooler ones) in and start over. My car is down for the moment. The front bearing in the alt took a dump and it's at the alt shop. So no testing for a day or so. Seems like a good time to change out those motor mounts...yippie.

 

[GNRick]

Some have said a bad crank sensor can cause a back fire, but in my case, it was a bad TPS sensor. It checked out fine with key on, but under load my scan tool caught the volts dropping to -0- and them picking up again. A new TPS sensor fixed it.

 

[Joe Kelsch]

It looks like the cam sensor is in the wrong position. My brother said the window should be in the 4 o'clock position when you're standing in front of the motor with the crank at #1 TDC. Mine's in the 1 o'clock position. I'm surprised it's even running.

 

[RATROASTER]

The car was definitely out of time. The guy who built the motor....two owners ago, set the cam sensor off by 90 degrees (window at 1 o'clock). I don't know how the heck he did this, but I put the cam sensor in the stock location with the window at 4 o'clock and the car wouldn't fire. THen we put the cam sensor 180 degrees out at 10 o'clock and its right with no hesitation or backfire. Can someone explain to me how the car is set up? - The other Kelsch

 

[Just a Six??]

Go to vortexbuicks-etc.com & read the basics page Of course take a look at the rest as well. There is a TON of Great Info there!!