Trunk Mounted Battery and Hotwired Pump(s)

[CTX-SLPR]

Howdy,

Well I'm going to be running my battery in the tunk to free up underhood space and make room for a Powerstroke or simular intercooler and/or a wider radiator if I decide to hack the coresupport. The question I have is I'm planning on hot wiring a doublepumper setup and why run a seperate wire all the way to the front of the car when I can tie into the main power buss at the back of the car where the alternator feed wire comes back to charge the battery? With a 200A alternator I'll be running an 6ga wire from the front buss to the rear buss which will then connect to the battery through another 6ga cable, the amplifier via a 10ga wire and then 2 10ga's to each of the fuel pumps. The start solenoid is also rear mounted with a 1/0 starter wire running to the starter so that draw won't be on the main wire. Even with Air ride and a sub pulling 150W more out of the amp do ya'll see a problem with this setup?

Another question is how to wire a kill switch with a rear mounted battery, hotwired injectors and ignition coming off either the main front buss or the alternator itself? I was thinking killing the grounding side of the battery with one leg of the switch, then have the second leg open the batt to buss line and trigger a relay that killed the Alternator feed to the front buss and the switch 12V to the ECM. Am I going to fry or shorten the life of something this way?

Thanks,

 

[S2V6RACER]

If you must use a separate charge wire back to the batt, use a Painless alternator cutoff relay along with your main cutoff.

I would just run a 0GA wire from the rear batt to the starter and use a 4 pin disconnect(Moroso makes them) and run your key 12V (brown wire) back to it and have the disconnect interrupt the alternator brown wire(regulator) just like if you were to shut the ignition off.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Thanks for the advice, I'm guessing the Moroso switch is the dual sided one with hot and ground side cut offs? And this is a '64 Riviera so I have no idea without looking it up as to the colour of my wires but I get what you are saying. Cut the Run circiut so that everything thinks you have killed the car.

 

[49-blues]

Check out: www.MadEnterprizes.com in Calif-They were a great help when i did mine-schematics ,wiring diagrams and explanations to save amperage and safety for nhra rules.

 

[Scott Atk]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...ne-running-double-pumper-metco-fuel-cell.html

There's a few pics of my setup in this thread. I basically did what you're trying to do. The only hitch is I run both pumps full time with a -6 return which made the wiring very simple. On the battery, I ran a cable through the switch and to the starter then ran a 4 ga. from the starter to the alternator. I extended the orange ECM wire to the cutoff switch for engine kill. This setup won't work exactly the same on yours since you have a rear mount solenoid. I chose the use a 150 amp ANL type fuse instead for simplicity.

 

[salvageV6]

If you run a 200A alternator front to back wire, use 2 gauge wire for that long run.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Do not kill the system using a switch in the ground side of the circuit.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Do not kill the system using a switch in the ground side of the circuit.

Porque No?

 

[S2V6RACER]

You will run the alt wire to the starter lug, run a 0 ga wire from the battery shutoff in the trunk only.

The moroso has a separate set of contacts (small ones) for interrupting the alternator +12v (Key on) regulator supply. (for non-self exciting regulators)

This is not possible to do with a one wire setup, you need to run the disconnect, or to the 12v batt side of switch, but that wire will ALWAYS be hot, and I am not crazy about that.

The 150V fuse is a great way of protecting the wire as mentioned above. I used the Painless alternator disconnect, I don't want hot wires anywhere when it is shut down.