TTA after storage

[erock841]

Hey everybody. I'm a little new to this whole muscle car thing and I'm looking for a little guidance. I'm working on selling a TTA I inherited from my grandfather but I have a few problems. He lost the keys for a few years so it sat in his garage for 5-7 years. The car runs and everything works but it idles VERY rough and when cruising around 1500 rpm the car is very rough. It accelerates great and is very quick but around idle it just doesn't feel right. The car only has 5000 miles so I don't think it's ever had a service. The problem is I'm in Sweden and US car parts are hard to come by. I want to try the easiest things first. New spark plugs, etc... Do you guys think it's going to be an easy fix?

My second problem is the radio antenna worked the first 3 or 4 times I drove the car but now it gets stuck and won't go all the way up or all the way down. Is there an easy way to fix this? Greasing the antenna?

Thanks
-E

 

[iwantatta]

Here is a good site to help with getting it running right again.

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

It shouldn't be too bad. I believe these cars run a little bit rougher than other cars at idle.

When i bought mine it ran rough. Just did the basic tuneup. Spark plugs, changed the oil, fuel filter, air filter, and pcv valve.

There are a couple of people i've seen on here that live in sweden and also own one. They maybe of some help on how to get parts.

 

[Lee_Burough]

Welcome!

Chances are that the car will run better as you drive it more. I bought a TTA that was not driven much in California, and the car ran a LOT better after driving it home to Colorado (1500 miles later).

A car that has set that long may have some vacuum hoses that leak air....That will cause a rough idle.

Do you have access to a scan tool? Scan tool numbers may be helpful.

In addition to the steps outlined in the Spring Cleaning guide, I'd recommend a specific fuel injector cleaner: Techron Fuel System Cleaner (sold in the USA by Chevron and Texaco).

Good Luck

 

[Scott89TTA]

Factory chips pretty much suck...mine ran rough and surged up and down...replace it with a TurboTweek 93 street chip and ti was beautiful. Also if it sat all that time I would replace all the vacuum lines along with plugs and fuel filter. Probably needs the IAC and TPS adjusted as well.

Wow why would you sell a 5k mile car...get it squared away and enjoy it while the value continues to climb...should be worth an pretty penny already.

-Scott

 

[erock841]

Thanks

Thanks for all the replies everybody. I'll get to work right away and hopefully get this great car running smoothly. Scott, I wish I could keep it but I'm only in Sweden for the summer. I'm still in college so my dad isn't too thrilled about the idea of me driving such a fast car. And he doesn't really have anywhere to put it at home... I'm working changing his mind but it's tough haha

-E

 

[Jan Larsson]

Hi or should I say hej Swede living in the UK since many years and a TTA owner.

Just to confirm is this Thomas Wiren's TTA? And if so are you his grandson?

Could you confirm the VIN ends with 247074 please as I keep a record of all the TTA's out there so just want to confirm the details before you sell it. Also I got the milage down as 1300 miles back in 2000 what is the current milage?

On the driver side door you find a PAS sticker/decal with two dates on it one being the GM build date (month/year) the other PAS build date (again month/year) could you share this please as this helps paint a good picture of when our cars been built.

Also on the upper radiator support you find a rivited id plate with a 6 digit number (somthing like 07-4567) this is the sequence number when built on the Van Nuys assembly line, can you share htis as well.

Sorry about all the questions but trying to build a as accurate as possible list of all the TTAs.

As mentiend above there's a number of TTAs in Sweden (6 in total) and some of the owners are on this board. Ulf Erikson in Vasteras is very knowledgeble and in fact if this is the car I think it is then he were in touch with your grandfather many years ago when he tried to touch base with all the TTA owners in Sweden. I suggest you drop him an email and say I recommended to talk to him try emailing him on KRY987s@tninet.se or 021.335004@telia.com (I think the later of the two addresses should work); this is his old web site Turbo Uffe

I hope you get the car running and if I can be of any help let me know (Jan Larsson - jlarsson@london.com)

How much do you plan to sell it for?? Also what documentation do you have to go with the car? You can email me directly on the address above.

Vi hores
Jan

 

[erock841]

Again, thanks for all the tips guys. Now, I've ordered a fuel filter, an air filter, and some plugs and they should be in tomorrow. I was wondering if anyone has detailed instructions on how to replace the air and fuel filter: ie where each is located and the proper procedure on home to replace each. Sorry if these are stupid questions, I just want to make sure I do this right. I don't want to break anything on this car. BTW, I took a look at the link provided but I believe it's for a regal right? So our air and fuel filters are in different places right?

-E

 

[Jan Larsson]

Erik,

For the air filter it's in the front driver side black box ... if you remove the clamp holding the black plastic elbow to the black box you will find a nut on a threaded rod so just remove the nut and the black box lid will come off and you can replace the airfilter then just reverse the procedure to put it all back together again.

The fuel filter is located just underneath the driver side rear seat. Make sure to relief the fuel pressure before you start, I normally pull the fuel pump fuse then run the car till it dies and crank it a couple of times and also remove the fuel filler cap.

Make sure to use two wrenches when you remove the fuel filter not to ruin the fittings holding the "nut" on the fuel filter fixed then turning the nut on the fuel line with another wrench loosening it all at both sides. Note that fuel will come out so be ready with some rags Also each fuel line have an o-ring on them so make sure they look good before installing the new filter ... also the new (and old) filter have an arrow on the for the flow direction so make sure you install the new one in the same direction as the old one.

Hope this helps

Jan

 

[Lee_Burough]

...Snip....BTW, I took a look at the link provided but I believe it's for a regal right? So our air and fuel filters are in different places right?

-E

Same engine and basically same placement of those filters.

 

[erock841]

Yikes

Ok well thanks for all the help guys. I managed to put new plugs in in replace the air filter. Even with these two simple things. The car ran much much smoother. I started it up and it was purring like a kitten. The car didn't shake anymore when idling and it was just so much better. I thought I was on easy street... but I was wrong... I stepped on it and the car downshifted and I heard a faint crackling/popping coming from what seemed like the air filter. I tried it one more time with a smooth acceleration in second and once the car hit 4000 rpms the same thing happened. I have a feeling the air hose connecting the turbo to the air filter may be cracked. Could this be the problem?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

BTW. thanks for all the great advice already, I don't think I would be able to get this car in the condition it deserves to be in without you guys.

-E

 

[erock841]

Ok so today I installed the fuel filter and it was fairly easy. I took the car for a spin and there was no crackling but the car couldn't hold the boost. It used to go off the scale when I floored it but now it sloooooooowly gets to around 16 or 17 and then drops down to 10. It's frustrating because the car is really running well but it's so slow with the turbo not working properly. Which hoses do you think could cause the turbo to fail to build up pressure?

Thanks
-E