tube a-arms and pulleys installed

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The steering box is off a S-10.. i later changed to a TRZ manual rack and pinion.
If i had to do it over again i would have left the power steering on ;)
 
What do they do besides look different.
are they anything like these.
http://www.scandc.com/suspensions.htm#streetcomp2

Those arms are made by UB Machine. My question is, are they the same ones that fix the suspension geometry or just OEM replacements?

I called UB Machine directly and had mine custom made to specs designated by a guy named Michael Crawford who runs a grass roots shop called Hellbilly Hotrods. They will improve suspension geometry just like the SC&C arms, but require you to use shims to do your alignment. They also use 80's Chevy C10 upper ball joints which are beefier and 1/2" longer, but have the same taper. I also got 1/2" longer lower ball joints from PowerPerformanceMotorsports.

I have them installed, but the car is still apart so I have no idea exactly how well it will work when it's all together.
 
The steering box is off a S-10.. i later changed to a TRZ manual rack and pinion.
If i had to do it over again i would have left the power steering on ;)

is it because is mostelly a street car?My car is a race car an I want to lighting up and I considere going with s-10 steering box.
 
Those arms are made by UB Machine. My question is, are they the same ones that fix the suspension geometry or just OEM replacements?

I called UB Machine directly and had mine custom made to specs designated by a guy named Michael Crawford who runs a grass roots shop called Hellbilly Hotrods. They will improve suspension geometry just like the SC&C arms, but require you to use shims to do your alignment. They also use 80's Chevy C10 upper ball joints which are beefier and 1/2" longer, but have the same taper. I also got 1/2" longer lower ball joints from PowerPerformanceMotorsports.

I have them installed, but the car is still apart so I have no idea exactly how well it will work when it's all together.

went on there site now proforged, but couldnt find the part # for lower ball joints, do you happen to have it? and price would be great help.

thanks
Dave
 
that very nice. buck thirty for uppers sweet.mite as well do the lowers are they a cheap. will have to call brian and find out nice work.
 
that very nice. buck thirty for uppers sweet.mite as well do the lowers are they a cheap. will have to call brian and find out nice work.
 
is it because is mostelly a street car?My car is a race car an I want to lighting up and I considere going with s-10 steering box.

Yes, steet car.
Not sure on the weight savings of the s-10 box, but its several pounds and cleans up the engine bay
 
went on there site now proforged, but couldnt find the part # for lower ball joints, do you happen to have it? and price would be great help.

thanks
Dave

proforged

The tall lowers are part #PROK6145.5SP

The tall uppers are part #PROK5208.5SP

I had my UCA's built custom so they use the upper ball joints out of a C10 from the mid 80's. That way my tall ball joints are a standart part #. The lowers are the tall ones mentioned above.

Don't put the tall uppers on stock UCA's. They will bind. I think they used to sell UCA relocation kits, but it's a bandaid. I would rather get the correct UCA's for what you are doing.
 
proforged

The tall lowers are part #PROK6145.5SP

The tall uppers are part #PROK5208.5SP

I had my UCA's built custom so they use the upper ball joints out of a C10 from the mid 80's. That way my tall ball joints are a standart part #. The lowers are the tall ones mentioned above.

Don't put the tall uppers on stock UCA's. They will bind. I think they used to sell UCA relocation kits, but it's a bandaid. I would rather get the correct UCA's for what you are doing.

Thanks Mike


I have the SPC Pro-Lite Lightweight Adjustable uppers w/NASCAR Screw-in Ball joints, and tubular lowers just wanted the taller ball joints for the lowers with out having to pay 80+ each for the howes

Thanks
Dave
 
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