Tunning with Direct scan?

[1chance]

First of all, I have never used anything,but a Scan2.0. Now what i need to know is How is injector duty cycle changed, can you set cam sensor by this, and what other things can be done by using this tool. I know it maybe out dated, but it all i can do. I was thinking you tune the car thru the laptop, thats wrong right? I do have TT chip to move timing, and fuel so that still done thru chip, right? Also have alky.

 

[BlackBandit]

All direct scan does is monitor and record data. You don't use it to directly do any tuning, you use the information it provides you to tune with, through your TT chip for example. Also, it isn't "outdated" per se, it's just that there are some technologically superior options that do some more things. However, there always seems to be something a little bit better so if you have direct scan use it. When you get accustomed to it and start wanting more data then see what else is out there. Hope that clears some stuff up. james

 

[1chance]

Thanks for the reply James. Now the injector duty is going to be adjusted by adjt FP regulator right?

 

[BlackBandit]

Thanks for the reply James. Now the injector duty is going to be adjusted by adjt FP regulator right?

No, the duty cycle is coded in the chip. When you pull fuel via the chip what happens is the duty cycle is reduced in that area. Example if you pull WOT fuel in 3rd and 4th then the inj duty cycle will be reduced in those areas. What I would do is drive around and then look at the blm cells in direct scan. You want to shoot for about 128 on those so if you drive around a bit (not wot) and look at them and they're all a little below that then the computer is pulling fuel. In that case you should raise the FP a little bit and do it again. Lower the fp if they're all a little high and leave it alone if they're close to 128. It's worth noting that the bottom row of cells are not used for blm fuel adjustments in the newer TT chips so don't pay attention to those. After you get that dialed in then work on tuning your WOT. Just make a run and do the fueling adjustments in the chip. (which will change WOT inj duty cycle) After you get WOT fuel where you want it move on to timing. HTH. james

 

[bmackinnon]

You want to shoot for about 128 on those so if you drive around a bit (not wot) and look at them and they're all a little below that then the computer is pulling fuel. In that case you should raise the FP a little bit and do it again. Lower the fp if they're all a little high and leave it alone if they're close to 128.
james

Thought process is correct, but you got it backwards... If the blm's are low, the computer is pulling fuel because the fuel pressure is too high, so lower the fp and the computer will pull less fuel, and the blm's will go up..... and vice versa for blm's too high....

 

[1chance]

Cool info, thx guys. So to be clear. The cam sensor has nothing to do with the injectors, it just tells them when to fire? Now i had no idea about the BLM.Im thinking this 4.1 will need a lot more fuel, and alky. Any ideas on plug Gap? Planning to get as close to 20psi as i can without stressing car. Also will the Direct Scan give any info for the trans? Also i only have a stock IC with a DW neck, is that good for low 11s?

 

[bmackinnon]

Cool info, thx guys. So to be clear. The cam sensor has nothing to do with the injectors, it just tells them when to fire? Now i had no idea about the BLM.Im thinking this 4.1 will need a lot more fuel, and alky. Any ideas on plug Gap? Planning to get as close to 20psi as i can without stressing car. Also will the Direct Scan give any info for the trans? Also i only have a stock IC with a DW neck, is that good for low 11s?

cam sensor.... uhhhh... yes, kinda, sorta....

4.1 will need whatever fuel and alky it will take to run whatever boost you want to run at the proper a/f ratio WITH NO KNOCK..... which will display as 780-ish mV O2 voltage and 0 deg. (or very little) knock retard on the scan tool...

Plug gap a tight .032"

LOW 11's?..... certainly possible...... likely???? :wink:

I feel you would benefit alot from reading this.....

Block Learn Multiplier and Integrator

and probably alot more at Turbo Regal Web Site ...

Good luck!

 

[BlackBandit]

Thought process is correct, but you got it backwards... If the blm's are low, the computer is pulling fuel because the fuel pressure is too high, so lower the fp and the computer will pull less fuel, and the blm's will go up..... and vice versa for blm's too high....

I switched the raise and lower thing huh? :redface: Good catch, I really could have caused some frustration with that. Thanks, james.

 

[1chance]

Thx for the link!

 

[1chance]

Finally installed Direct Scan.

I have no idea what to do, i know these issues may have been beat to death. What i want to know is, at idle the TPS on the DS shows 86, but my scan2.1 shows 44. Do i adjust, or do i need to reset the settings. Also the RPM shows 5475 all the time. The number are a little confusing. It reads temp right, i see it has a triger set for 3.0, dose that mean that it will reset when the TPS reach 3.0, if so its rainning now and i cant go WOT.

 

[bmackinnon]

Sounds like you don't have the ecu card edge cleaned up good enough for the DS.... if you are getting irrational data, further cleaning of the contacts is required... it's a real PITA to get it clean enough.... I know it took me at least an hour of acetone, scrub, acetone, scrub, scrape, wipe, acetone, wipe, etc, etc.... the coating on the contacts is a real beItch to get off. Fingernail polish remover, goof-off, etc. works fine, just go slowly, carefully until when you are scraping, you can see scratches forming on the gold contacts.... and make sure no gunk has got into the female cable connector that plugs into the ecu card from trying it, removing, etc.... those contacts have to be clean-clean!! "86" for TPS, and 5475 rpm, not changing is irrational.... the DS readings should be damn close to scanmaster.... (except, actually correct... ie. '44' for tps on scanmaster will show up as 0.44 volts on DS).... now get back to cleaning!!

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Sounds like you don't have the ecu card edge cleaned up good enough for the DS.... if you are getting irrational data, further cleaning of the contacts is required... it's a real PITA to get it clean enough.... I know it took me at least an hour of acetone, scrub, acetone, scrub, scrape, wipe, acetone, wipe, etc, etc.... the coating on the contacts is a real beItch to get off. Fingernail polish remover, goof-off, etc. works fine, just go slowly, carefully until when you are scraping, you can see scratches forming on the gold contacts.... and make sure no gunk has got into the female cable connector that plugs into the ecu card from trying it, removing, etc.... those contacts have to be clean-clean!! "86" for TPS, and 5475 rpm, not changing is irrational.... the DS readings should be damn close to scanmaster.... (except, actually correct... ie. '44' for tps on scanmaster will show up as 0.44 volts on DS).... now get back to cleaning!!

The best way to clean the contacts is a product called Goof Off. The best and easiest way to tune is a Powerlogger, wideband o2 sensor, 3 bar MAP, and a TT chip set for the wideband. Set fuel pressure to 43 line off and you are set. DS and Scanmaster are basically extinct now. This setup allows you to see everything going on with your car. Changing A/F ratio targets, timing, converter lockup is so simple that it takes only minutes. No more fooling around with the fuel pressure regulator. You know where you are and can directly program the chip and quit guessing. Good-luck. Brad

 

[1chance]

Do you have to get them down to the gold color? I got them down to the chrome color, and when i saw markings on them i stopped

 

[1chance]

Any chance its reading right? Because my dash RPM stay pegged all the time. That whats showing on the DS. Do the MAP sensor have anything to do with that? I pulled the vacum line off it a while back, and it had rusty water comming out of it? Who sells MAP sensors?