Understanding and how to turn up my boost

carryon525

Member
Feb 22, 2016
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Abita Springs, Louisianna
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IMG_4482.PNG IMG_4482 (1).PNG On my old GN it was easy as all I had to do was open hood turn a yellow dial to the right or left. The GN I have now I'm not sure I understand how to actually turn up or down the boost on top of that I have the RJC boost controller piece on it which I was under the impression that's how I do it. I also just read this on RJC's site and I noticed it said eleiminate the Y connector? I still have mine one the car???
The RJC boost controller works totally different from the factory set up. you run the vacuum line from the turbos compressor through the controller directly to the WG actuator eliminating the factory “Y” and the WG solenoid. (leave it plugged in electrically to a avoid check engine light).
Can someone explain to me exactly how I do this? Also, a Buick friend of mine mentioned to me that I should check the "puck" to make sure its opening and closing properly and if not clean it? How, where, and what are the steps. Its a shame I'm asking because I had my old GN down pat!
 
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626gn

Well-Known Member
Feb 15, 2009
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Honolulu, Hawaii
1. Remove the factory Y hose assembly.
2. Run a vacuum line from the nipple on the turbo compressor to the straight end of the RJC boost controller.
3. Run another vacuum line from the 90* end of the RJC boost controller to the nipple on the wastegate actuator. No hoses go to your wastegate solenoid with this set up.
3. If you have an adjustable wastegate set your wastegate rod so you have to pull it out about 1/8" to hook it back onto the puck arm (the 1/8" is not critical. the idea here is to leave some tension on the wastegate).

To make adjustments with the RJC unit you have to remove the vacuum line at the 90* end and screw it in (shortening the actuator) to increase boost or unscrew (lengthen) to reduce boost. I like to start with it screwed in a just a couple turns and work my way to where I want my boost to be. Go slow. 1 turn at a time. You don't want to raise the boost set point too quickly or you may be changing head gaskets next. 1 full turn equals about 1psi of boost. Be sure to ziptie the hoses.

Some have used compressed air to dial in boost instead of having to make a test pull after every adjustment to see where your boost is at.


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carryon525

Member
Feb 22, 2016
131
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Abita Springs, Louisianna
1. Remove the factory Y hose assembly.
2. Run a vacuum line from the nipple on the turbo compressor to the straight end of the RJC boost controller.
3. Run another vacuum line from the 90* end of the RJC boost controller to where the factory Y hose plugged into the wastegate solenoid.
3. If you have an adjustable wastegate set your wastegate rod so you have to pull it out about 1/8" to hook it back onto the puck arm (the 1/8" is not critical. the idea here is to leave some tension on the wastegate).

To make adjustments with the RJC unit you have to remove the vacuum line at the 90* end and screw it in (shortening the actuator) to increase boost or unscrew (lengthen) to reduce boost. I like to start with it screwed in a just a couple turns and work my way to where I want my boost to be. Go slow. 1 turn at a time. You don't want to raise the boost set point too quickly or you may be changing head gaskets next. 1 full turn equals about 1psi of boost. Be sure to ziptie the hoses.

Some have used compressed air to dial in boost instead of having to make a test pull after every adjustment to see where your boost is at.


.
How do I do the compressed air thing? Also, am I take the Y connector completely out of the equation? What about the hose thst goes to the wategate itself? I'll try to get some pictures tonight so you can see how I have mine set up. If I currently have it set up like you see in the picture above is it affecting anything??
 

626gn

Well-Known Member
Feb 15, 2009
2,228
311
83
Honolulu, Hawaii
As explained in my post I would remove the Y hose assembly. I edited my post above to better clarify. Basically, the straight end of the RJC boost controller connects to the turbo. The 90* end connects to the wastegate actuator. That's it. No other hoses to connect. Nothing goes to the wastegate solenoid on the valve cover but you have to leave it plugged in so you don't throw a code.

I've never used a compressor to set my boost gauge. But I cut and pasted the following from someone who did: "If you have access to an air compressor with a decent gauge on it, can use it to pre-set the boost level. Set the air compressor regulator for the desired boost level (17 psi in this case). Then use a small volume of air and adjust the boost controller until it just lifts the ball off the seat. Lock it down, install and test".
 
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