Vaccum Levels

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GrndNatnl

Regal of the Dark Order
Joined
Aug 28, 2001
Messages
839
Just checking up on some things.

I have a 30 in/hg & 20 psi vac/boost gauge. What should my vaccum be at idle? And what should it be at about 2000 rpm? Car is stock setup. I just want to make sure everythings running right.

And why does the vac jump to zero when I blip the throttle? If I blip it real quick and hold it, it jumps then goes back down to drawing vaccum. Anyone that can explain how this works? Never clearly understood why it does that.
 
I have a 30 in/hg & 20 psi vac/boost gauge. What should my vaccum be at idle? And what should it be at about 2000 rpm? Car is stock setup. I just want to make sure everythings running right.

And why does the vac jump to zero when I blip the throttle? If I blip it real quick and hold it, it jumps then goes back down to drawing vaccum. Anyone that can explain how this works? Never clearly understood why it does that.


…Okay.
Warm/hot idle in park: 17-18in/hg (cold closer to 20)
2000 rpm cruise in gear: 15-18in/hg depending of gear and angle of foot.

The engine vac drops with throttle position due to a closer relationship to atmospheric pressure found in engine operation sucking speed. Engines are air pumps. The opposite applies when you let off.

When you enter positive pressures (boost) it is a whole new game. ;)

HTH,
 
In gear at 750-800 RPM, expect 12-14 inhg for a good running T-R.
 
Vacuum dumps to zero

While I'm no expert, this is typical of all internal combustion engines.

The "Source" of the vacuum reading in this case is taken at the intake manifold, where the intake stroke (piston moving down) during a constant RPM (like at idle) creates a negative pressure, or vacuum, within the manifold.

So, atmospheric pressure, or "0" vacuum, is attempting to force its way past the throttle and into the intake at this stage. This differential (or difference in pressure) is measured by the vacuum gauge. For lack of a better term, the downward stroke of the piston is attempting to "Suck Air" and fill the volume of the cyl, with the throttle "Preventing" the air from filling that volume. Thus, RPMs are controlled (Along with a number of other factors, such as fuel metering.)

So, when the throttle is opened rapidly, there is a slight delay in piston reaction, meaning, the rpms do not increase to compensate for the incoming rush of air right away. At this point, most or all vacuum diminishes (bleeds off) and there is no longer any differential to measure... Vacuum has been momentarily lost.

BUT.. The piston speeds or RPMs are increasing, and if the throttle is held partially open (no boost yet), they "Catch up" and a vacuum is once again created. When you snap the throttle closed, the air is almost shut off, but the piston speeds are still quite high... You will see a spike on the vac gauge... almost 30 in/hg... a perfect vacuum, before it levels off.

We haven't even talked about supercharging yet! Basically, supercharging is a method of further increasing the pressure differential. Rather than only relying on the pistons ability to "Suck" air in, we want to go beyond atmospheric pressure and force even more air into the cyl. volume... "Fake Cubic Inches" if you will!

If you really think about it, the relationship between "Bigger" camshafts and resulting lower vacuum readings begin the make sense... Not due to lift, but because of valve overlap (When the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time) In this case, the more overlap you have, the more likely atmospheric pressure "sneaks its way in" from the exhaust side and lowers the pressure differential. The throttle is no longer the only "Point of entry" for holding back the atmospheric pressure.

I'm sure that others will correct my oversimplifications, but I hope this helps you out!
 
Wow.. Thanks guys. You've covered everything I questioned. I have a much clearer understanding. Before it was only vague.

6=8: You should be a teacher or instructor of some sort. That was good. :cool:

I've taken the vac numbers given down in notes, and next time I fire the car up, I'll check to see that they're within range. Everythings been running good, I just want to make sure.

What would the signs be of a blown head gasket on the vac gauge? Lower vac? Bouncy reading?

Thanks again fellas.
 
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