Vacuum brake booster conversion

[kenmac87gn]

I'm thinking about swapping brake system to vacuum. Any problems encountered with this switch? Any sources for parts?

 

[TWISTER]

Pretty straight forward. All you need is the brake pedal from a g body and you can buy a reman. assembly from AZ for about $150. There is a good writeup at gnttype. I have a pedal for $22 shipped if you are interested. I picked up an extra from the junkyard as I just finished my conversion. Can be a pain to change out the pedal. Do a search here and youll get alot of info. Sure beats buying powermaster parts. Good Luck.

 

[WE4 WARRIOR]

vacuum

i went to a pick and pull and took out the booster , pedal and vacuum hose and valve all for 25 dollars. bought a new master cylinder for under 30.00 .threw everything in . bled the master on the bench . only bleeding that has to be done. hardest part was putting in the pedal because of location. i duct taped the nut to a wrench, passed the bolt through the pedal and bracket and started the bolt into the nut . its a great feeling to step on the brake and actually stop. almost forgot the vacuum block with extra port for the brakes that i got from a supporting vendor.

 

[Red Regal T]

I'm thinking about swapping brake system to vacuum. Any problems encountered with this switch? Any sources for parts?

I sell complete vacuum brake conversion kits with installation instructions and you'll find my ad in parts for sale. Pedal change is a snap!

 

[GNut]

I sell complete vacuum brake conversion kits with installation instructions and you'll find my ad in parts for sale. Pedal change is a snap!

FOR A MIDGET MAYBE!! Lying on your back crammed into the foot well looking into a dark hole for an hour is no picnic. Trying to get standard sized wrenches into spaces they don't want to fit is by no means a "Snap". It's not rocket science.. but a "Snap"...uhhhh NO!

just playing..

 

[8AV8]

Red Regal is a straight up guy to deal with if you dont decide to do the junkyard hunt

 

[RAMAIR1]

FOR A MIDGET MAYBE!! Lying on your back crammed into the foot well looking into a dark hole for an hour is no picnic. Trying to get standard sized wrenches into spaces they don't want to fit is by no means a "Snap". It's not rocket science.. but a "Snap"...uhhhh NO!

just playing..

I'm not a midget....didn't have a problem. Fun? Not exactly, but not difficult either. I really expected it to be a LOT harder than it was. Actually I had a harder time getting the bolts on the booster lined up correctly and pushed into the firewall. I don't remember where I saw the "tape trick" for keeping the sleeve inside the pedal assembly, but it worked quite well! The whole job was maybe 1.5 hrs, including removal of the Powerbastard.

 

[Red Regal T]

FOR A MIDGET MAYBE!! Lying on your back crammed into the foot well looking into a dark hole for an hour is no picnic. Trying to get standard sized wrenches into spaces they don't want to fit is by no means a "Snap". It's not rocket science.. but a "Snap"...uhhhh NO!

just playing..

You must have done it the hard way. Once you have removed the nuts that hold the power-disaster in place and remove it, there's one more bolt vertically into the frame work that holds the entire saddle and brake pedal in place. Take out that one bolt, and you can lower the saddle and change the pedal. :tongue: That don't take no hour. And for lining up the studs for installation of the booster, it's best to pull the saddle all the way out of the car, and make the 4 studs on the booster line up with the 4 holes in the saddle. Just tap them with a hammer to make them line up. Then replace the saddle with your new pedal, and you'll find the booster will line right up.

 

[bishir]

I'd rather pay Red to send me the parts than have to do this job in the hot junkyard in some heap, then come home and do the same thing on my car. It's cheaper than going to the Dr. for the tenus shot you'll need after you're done at that junkyard.