Vacuum Brake Conversion Parts and How-to

Cbring

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Can anyone help direct me to a how-to forum and/or a parts list for a vacuum brake conversion.

Parts needed list:

87-88 Monte carlo brake booster
master cylinder
brake pedal
vacuum block w/gasket
vacuum line w/ valve

do i need anything else? Is the install that simple? do i keep my distribution block i have? do i change anything besides the above things?
 
Can anyone help direct me to a how-to forum and/or a parts list for a vacuum brake conversion.

Parts needed list:

87-88 Monte carlo brake booster
master cylinder
brake pedal
vacuum block w/gasket
vacuum line w/ valve

do i need anything else? Is the install that simple? do i keep my distribution block i have? do i change anything besides the above things?

Booster from any G-body, 83 thru 87 is the same. You don't have to change the vac block either.


http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...320921-basic-instructions-pm-vacuum-swap.html
 
The single is only found on the Monte Carlo, perhaps between 81 and 84 or 85. No other G-body, BOP, two or four-door came with the single diaphram. They must of had a bunch left over at the Chevy plant. :D
 
I have the comp cams 212 camshaft. Am I gonna need a vacuum canister or vacuum pump to provide adequate vacuum at all times to assist the brakes?
 
Unfortunately, it still doesn't state what year pedals work. Just don't want to spend my time and money picking a part that isnt right.
 
very important

make sure you hose clamp all vacuum lines because while under boost they are pressurized and may blow off:eek: no brakes not fun.....
 
Every G-body with vacuum brakes, which is nearly all. Even the earlier montes and Cutlasses, lemans, and regals from 78 thru 80.
 
I have the comp cams 212 camshaft. Am I gonna need a vacuum canister or vacuum pump to provide adequate vacuum at all times to assist the brakes?
 
brakes

I will problem get stoned for this (one reason I'm a big reader and not so much on the posting) i have the 212/218 cam And my vacuum brakes suck I've tried 3 different boosters 2 master cylinders and want to believe in it.But I'm to the point I'm going to put a hydro boost on and be done.Now I'm sure some people have and will tell you how great their's work, mine you have to be on constance alert and keep your distance or it's disaster time.I hope I didn't open a can of worms I'm just one person and this is just one car.Results will very And no I don't have vacuum leaks and there is nothing wrong with my car.look at my photo albums I restore cars for a living so I'm not some dumb ass.
 
HI I just changed mine today .called a couple of junk yards found a 87 cutlass and bought the m/c booster and pedal . bolted it in and put a t fitting in and had brakes . It took 2-3 hours with some frainds , :cool:
 
I sent my powermaster setup to A1 Cardone through O'reilly's auto parts for 379.99. They told me about a 1 week turn around, which is fine with me. There is salt on the roads here and she ain't coming out n e ways. So while i was at it i rebuilt the front end(ball joints,inner & outer tie rods,adjusting sleeves), rear end, front and rear brakes, installed my b&m megashifter, new speakers and radio, eibach springs,bilstein shocks, rust reform painted all metal in fenderwells, and undercoated. I guess i'll start a thread to show the pics.
 
I will problem get stoned for this (one reason I'm a big reader and not so much on the posting) i have the 212/218 cam And my vacuum brakes suck I've tried 3 different boosters 2 master cylinders and want to believe in it.But I'm to the point I'm going to put a hydro boost on and be done.Now I'm sure some people have and will tell you how great their's work, mine you have to be on constance alert and keep your distance or it's disaster time.I hope I didn't open a can of worms I'm just one person and this is just one car.Results will very And no I don't have vacuum leaks and there is nothing wrong with my car.look at my photo albums I restore cars for a living so I'm not some dumb ass.

you need at last 15" of vacuum at idle to make pretty much any brake booster work efficiently.
one thing you could try is a master cylinder with a slightly smaller bore to lessen the pedal effort- if you have a 1.25" master cylinder, then try a 1.125". of you already have that, try a 1". the tradeoff is that you will have to push the pedal farther to get the same braking power.
 
used all of the parts for my install last year and it took longer to crawl up under the dash and remove the pedal assembly than anything else, but overall not a big deal. Hardest part for me was finding a vacuum brake pedal. Ended up getting one from a cutlass at a salvage yard near by. I have a real mild cam in mine and the brakes work great.
 
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