welp,i just signed up to the board, im in the market for a ttype or GN,always loved them and wanted one and now im looking...first id like to know what the best year range is..ive been dealing with Thunderbird Turbo Coupes for a while and know them pretty good but i just want a turbo buick! can someone list or give me a page that gives all the specs of the GN and ttypes orjust tell me some info about them...good and bad...thanks in advance!
VERY NEW,need turbo buick specs
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onefastjackass
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86-87 are the intercooled version and are the most desirable.
See this link for further buying info http://www.rennie-macintosh.com/general/buyguide.html
See this link for further buying info http://www.rennie-macintosh.com/general/buyguide.html
onefastjackass
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Also a couple of things they didn't mention are to check for the correct 200 tranny should have a tag that says BRF and the 8.5 rearend.( a lot of people replaced them with monte carlo weak 7.5 rears due to the value)
Not sure if it talks much about the block but it is a 109 and if you are looking for one that is numbers matching will have a stamped number on the block by the starter pad or driver side just opposite.(can't remember which side one is the cast 109 number and one is the stamped one i think)
Not sure if it talks much about the block but it is a 109 and if you are looking for one that is numbers matching will have a stamped number on the block by the starter pad or driver side just opposite.(can't remember which side one is the cast 109 number and one is the stamped one i think)
The biggest problems if you find a stock one (rare) is the Fuel pump, the right side upper control arm bushing (gets cooked), the powermaster braking system, rust and general motor problems caused by owner neglect/abuse/corrosion. Stuff like sensors, relays for the little stuff and headgaskets and main bearings for the big end. It depends on the car.
You can buy a 90K mile one that has been well kept and have a pretty reliable 18 year old car.... Or it can be a huge money pit.
Low mile ones cost more and may require more replacement of sensors, etc. (that would have been replaced already on a driven car) but will be worth more in the future.... And yes, these cars will be worth more in the future.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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Dennis Kirban sells a book on specs. and how to buy a Turbo Regal.
Kirban Performance Products is the business name and it should be on his website.
Great technical source for the types of cars, problem areas, and what to look for when buying one.
Most likely worth the money for a newbie, prolly sell it for most of what you paid for on Ebay, might be able to get a used copy off there too.
Kirban Performance Products is the business name and it should be on his website.
Great technical source for the types of cars, problem areas, and what to look for when buying one.
Most likely worth the money for a newbie, prolly sell it for most of what you paid for on Ebay, might be able to get a used copy off there too.
JadeMonkeyStang
TRs on the Brain
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onefastjackass
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If you just look at the specs you may be dissapointed.
These cars with a few simple mods are much quicker then the specs and there has always been somewhat of a disagreement over what they went stock.Example someone may quote 14.8 another 13.2 etc.But really Many people are running mid to low 12's with basic mods on better fuel and higher boost.
Weight is dependant upon options generally goes from 3500 to about 3800 pounds.
If you have the money go with a 1986-1987 car.They are intercooled cars versus the 84-85's that are hotair cars.Also the engine ecm and wiring are different so go with the 86-87 years.
If you're in MD, THE go-to guy is Brian (bweavy). I think his web page is www.gbodyparts.com. Heck of a guy. Best published 1/4 mile time for a stock 86 was 13.8 (don't remember the magazine but it was a gun-metal grey t-type). Second the idea of checking Kirbans website. he has published several guides on these cars.
onefastjackass
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That is why I told you to look for a intercooled one the problems and expense you would have converting it would not be worth the difference in price.
It's not just the intercooler it's many more things.Exhaust headers, intercoooler,ecm,wiring harness etc etc etc.
TurboJunky
Fire the Federal Gov't
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Be wary of moderately/highly modded Turbo Regals. They need to be modded with the proper combination of parts in order for it to perform well and not take longivity from the engine. Detonation/knock is KILLER to these engines and if mods aren't done properly engine life may suffer. The LC2 powerplant is extremely tough contrary to the stories that turbocharged engines die quickly.
Standard doctrine is that 1986-87 intercooled versions are most desired for performance purposes. For rarity, the 1984 GN, 86-87 Turbo Regal Limiteds are up there next to the 1982 GN.
Some of these have already been mentioned but I'll hit'em here:
- Sensors may be bad. My 1st GN had one under the hood that rusted out causing the electric fan to stay on. Buick didn't make it waterproof - it's a common problem.
- Doors can rust out if they're from northern states and winter driven (road salt).
- Original paint was horrible.
- Power antenna may freeze.
- Original parts are getting hard if not impossible to find.
- Transmission TCC solenoid usually goes out quickly. This causes very premature torque converter lockup. Inexpensive, but messy fix.
- Powermaster break system (not sure why Buick tried to re-invent the wheel). Buick has an electric motor to create vacuum instead of it being drawn naturally from the engine. Pontiac chose to draw off the engine instead in the TTA, a no brainer.
I've owned 2 GNs and one 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A and have had virtually NO mechanical problems to report, though most of my LC2 cars have been low mile cars. I had my 1st GN from 17,000 mi - 78,000 and had the TCC problem, sensor problem, powermaster break issues and due to my neglence blew a head gasket....that was it.
I haven't had the money pit problems some report. I suspect those cars have been run hard and/or been high mile daily drivers including possible hard winters. Aside from some of these problems outlined here I'd recommend a Turbo Regal to anyone looking for a ride offering comfort, good fuel economy, creature comforts, trunk space, a bit of rarity/legend and the possiblilty of [cheap] KILLER performance if one chooses. I've been in some pretty tough performance cars and what the TR offers makes them pale in comparison. I'll have one forever.
Standard doctrine is that 1986-87 intercooled versions are most desired for performance purposes. For rarity, the 1984 GN, 86-87 Turbo Regal Limiteds are up there next to the 1982 GN.
Some of these have already been mentioned but I'll hit'em here:
- Sensors may be bad. My 1st GN had one under the hood that rusted out causing the electric fan to stay on. Buick didn't make it waterproof - it's a common problem.
- Doors can rust out if they're from northern states and winter driven (road salt).
- Original paint was horrible.
- Power antenna may freeze.
- Original parts are getting hard if not impossible to find.
- Transmission TCC solenoid usually goes out quickly. This causes very premature torque converter lockup. Inexpensive, but messy fix.
- Powermaster break system (not sure why Buick tried to re-invent the wheel). Buick has an electric motor to create vacuum instead of it being drawn naturally from the engine. Pontiac chose to draw off the engine instead in the TTA, a no brainer.
I've owned 2 GNs and one 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A and have had virtually NO mechanical problems to report, though most of my LC2 cars have been low mile cars. I had my 1st GN from 17,000 mi - 78,000 and had the TCC problem, sensor problem, powermaster break issues and due to my neglence blew a head gasket....that was it.
I haven't had the money pit problems some report. I suspect those cars have been run hard and/or been high mile daily drivers including possible hard winters. Aside from some of these problems outlined here I'd recommend a Turbo Regal to anyone looking for a ride offering comfort, good fuel economy, creature comforts, trunk space, a bit of rarity/legend and the possiblilty of [cheap] KILLER performance if one chooses. I've been in some pretty tough performance cars and what the TR offers makes them pale in comparison. I'll have one forever.
TurboJunky
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If your area uses road salt the inevitable will happen. Underbody rust will occur and I'm not a huge fan of undercoating sealant. The only suggestion I can offer is WASH, WASH, WASH. Get as much road grime/salt off the car and underbody as possible.
onefastjackass
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Yes! Get a scan tool first!! Then adjustable wastgate .Gut the cat or put a straight pipe with cutout.Good fuel pump(340) with adjustable Fuel pressure regulator,Denso o2 sensor( for high octane race fuel) Accurate fuel pressure gauge.A good Boost gauge.A good chip.
That should get you into the sold 12 second range after you tune it and learn how to drive it.
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