Voodo cam any good??
- Thread starter gn_steve
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
Go roller if all possible. Just better all around. Those specs are decent...not familiar with the voodoo lobes tho.
Last edited:
Thanks for the info but roller will have to wait until next year budget is pretty much broken right now lolol
Anybody have good experience with these cams?
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,022
While I am not familiar with how lunati rates there seat - seat cam timing [.006?] what I see from
looking at the specs you have posted.....256/213 this would indicate a faster ramp cam that can require a bit more spring pressure and a slower leak rate lifter to make full use of the cams potential. The faster ramp cams can also have noisier operation.
When you take the seat timing and subtract the @.050 timing [256-213] =43* this gives you an idea of how aggressive the open and closing flanks are....over 52*=slower less aggresive,
48-51*= average and 47* and less indicate faster more aggressive on the ramps.[using .006"]
Of course you would need the @.200 numbers to get a better picture, but in general the more aggressive the opening the more so overall.
The buick club used to offer some lunati cams and I ran the 200/200 with good results.
Your cam has about 4-5 degrees more duration at .050 than I would like to see on a mild build but since you have it and as long as it was broken in properly give it a try and let us know how it works. HTH, Fastblack
looking at the specs you have posted.....256/213 this would indicate a faster ramp cam that can require a bit more spring pressure and a slower leak rate lifter to make full use of the cams potential. The faster ramp cams can also have noisier operation.
When you take the seat timing and subtract the @.050 timing [256-213] =43* this gives you an idea of how aggressive the open and closing flanks are....over 52*=slower less aggresive,
48-51*= average and 47* and less indicate faster more aggressive on the ramps.[using .006"]
Of course you would need the @.200 numbers to get a better picture, but in general the more aggressive the opening the more so overall.
The buick club used to offer some lunati cams and I ran the 200/200 with good results.
Your cam has about 4-5 degrees more duration at .050 than I would like to see on a mild build but since you have it and as long as it was broken in properly give it a try and let us know how it works. HTH, Fastblack
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,022
As I understand it you are correct. After ultradyne dis appeared Harold went to lunati.
I think Bullet racing cams has the old UD cam masters now.
With my combo stock botom end this lunati cam gn1 aluminium head td roller rockers gn1 uper intake 72mm accufab throtle body a 5857e ball bearing precision turbo t/a performance headers and a 3 inch downpipe with external westgate
You guys think i can see some high 10 second passes???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You guys think i can see some high 10 second passes???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thundertoad
Lurker
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2012
- Messages
- 37
I'm no expert by any means, but I have a voodoo cam in my build. I run the step below your cam.
http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCard.aspx?partNumber=66500
I was going to use that 204/214 that was pretty popular, but supposedly that grind is discontinued? At least summit told me that. So I searched for days about info on the voodoo stuff and hardly anything came up. I said eff it and went with it anyways.
Still need to finish up a couple upgrades before it sees a dyno or track later this year, but it's fun as hell on the street, which is 99.5% of its life anyways.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCard.aspx?partNumber=66500
I was going to use that 204/214 that was pretty popular, but supposedly that grind is discontinued? At least summit told me that. So I searched for days about info on the voodoo stuff and hardly anything came up. I said eff it and went with it anyways.
Still need to finish up a couple upgrades before it sees a dyno or track later this year, but it's fun as hell on the street, which is 99.5% of its life anyways.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,022
The potential is there...torque converter, suspension and tuning will determine your success.
25+ pounds boost, sixty foot in the mid 1.5x and a converter that couples up with that combo
and does not slip up top.
I'm almost positive the VooDoo cams are the series with the very high ramp speed in the lobes. Now on paper that's a GREAT way to make some extra power using the same seat and lift numbers. Having a faster ramp speed puts more flow 'under the curve' when the curve gets bulged out. That being said.....
There's no way in hell I'd risk an engine, turbo and oil cooler over a flat tappet cam. And taking something that has a good chance of failure THEN making the lobe more aggressive... not going to happen here.
After my car was stolen the cam was all I had left to buy for a couple of years. My car sat until I could buy the roller lifters and camshaft.
There's no way in hell I'd risk an engine, turbo and oil cooler over a flat tappet cam. And taking something that has a good chance of failure THEN making the lobe more aggressive... not going to happen here.
After my car was stolen the cam was all I had left to buy for a couple of years. My car sat until I could buy the roller lifters and camshaft.
I hope your gamble pays off.
Then again I'm sure it won't be much more money than buying a roller instead of a flat.... if you ended up buying a flat, then a roller, then a turbo, then a radiator, then an oil cooler, and add a full rebuild. Oh, and possibly turning a crank too.
Percentage wise it's a lot more money but as far as dollars go, the insurance is cheap.
And for god's sake when you risk your engine DO NOT use tappets that are missing the hardened feet.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
Youve been warned
Normally I'd say something snarky, like ''Don't worry about the hardened feet or a good cam blank then... you have ZDDP!".
But this lesson is going to hurt. It's truly not going to be funny.
Years ago when I was just about to enter the track the first time at racing school I asked my instructor "I heard if you crash you fail. Is that true?"
He replied "Not if you learn something".
But this lesson is going to hurt. It's truly not going to be funny.
Years ago when I was just about to enter the track the first time at racing school I asked my instructor "I heard if you crash you fail. Is that true?"
He replied "Not if you learn something".
Well i rebuilt the engine of my first 1987 regal turbo t it had a flat tappet comp cam in it i reused it with no problem and i raced the shit out of the car plus its still going strong 4 years later with 0 problems? So why all this hate on flat tappet?? I was a small block chevy guy before ran mechanical flat tappet in all my engine never ever had a problem ???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
deezdad
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,317
Is there any scenario a flat tappet cam can perform well and live a long life in our motors? Mine was rebuilt with 194/204 cs1112r, pardon the hijack starting to worry a little bit..
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,022
Flat tappet cams can survive providing they are broke in properly, they do not have excessive spring pressure.....faster ramps and higher rpm and turbo demands need more spring.
A high quality oil is used, brad penn and VR1 are good oils, zddp additives help. I would not run a cheap oil or synthetic with a flat tappet. IMO
There are the oem GM lifters with the hard cap on the lifter face that are the best and everything else wishes they were as good.
The Turbo Regal engine block has an unusual flaw in its design...the #3 exhaust lifter bore offset is different than the rest and this can interfere with lifter rotation unless a reverse taper is called out for that lobe when the cam is made.
It used to be fairly common for our engines to lose the #3 exhaust lobe.
Now I like and recommend using a roller cam when your wallet allows it, But they are far from foolproof and there is plenty that go wrong with a roller cam set up. Link bars loose and noisy, wheels chew through improperly hardened
bodies, needle bearings fail, cam lobe surface chips off, thrust bearing and cam retainer plate issues to name a few.
Bottom line is the camshaft is a highly stressed component in your engine and there is no guarantee that either type will be trouble free. Do your research and make sure you understand the pros and cons of each set up.
A high quality oil is used, brad penn and VR1 are good oils, zddp additives help. I would not run a cheap oil or synthetic with a flat tappet. IMO
There are the oem GM lifters with the hard cap on the lifter face that are the best and everything else wishes they were as good.
The Turbo Regal engine block has an unusual flaw in its design...the #3 exhaust lifter bore offset is different than the rest and this can interfere with lifter rotation unless a reverse taper is called out for that lobe when the cam is made.
It used to be fairly common for our engines to lose the #3 exhaust lobe.
Now I like and recommend using a roller cam when your wallet allows it, But they are far from foolproof and there is plenty that go wrong with a roller cam set up. Link bars loose and noisy, wheels chew through improperly hardened
bodies, needle bearings fail, cam lobe surface chips off, thrust bearing and cam retainer plate issues to name a few.
Bottom line is the camshaft is a highly stressed component in your engine and there is no guarantee that either type will be trouble free. Do your research and make sure you understand the pros and cons of each set up.
