What am I missing here???

[GNRick]

Per Thrasher website, if you get TPS to 4.0 then you are good, for PE mode. This is 80% of 5.0. See #6 in this link. http://www.thrashercharged.com/chips_htm/cal_hints.shtm#5

 

[buickGN3:16]

690 is lean readings for wot, how much boost when the 690 occurs?


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[jopaustu]

Too much. Have factory waste gate acuator and saw it creep near or at twenty surprised me. Didn't think it would allow it.. maybe malfunctioning?
I really haven't got into the throttle since I had no scan tool until now.

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[earlbrown]

touch the three rubber hoses connecting the turbo to the wastegate. If your fingers turn black, replace them with new hoses.


If they don't turn black, replace them anyway.

 

[jopaustu]

Pulled off the actuator. Hoses rotted. Have oil in actuator.. normal? Or is my turbo beginning to go. No oil in the vacuum line from turbo. Oil around vacuum block though .. going to get hoses this evening

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[TexasT]

Pay attention to how the y is situated. It needs to go back like it was.

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[Buick Mark]

PE mode iirc starts at 3.7 volts or close to that. Dont waste your time sawing holes in the sensor if your close to 4.0 volts

 

[jopaustu]

No need to saw holes. Was able to hit near target TPS. Any one know at what boost the factory wastegate opens at? Appears to be working aside from some oil inside.

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[jopaustu]

touch the three rubber hoses connecting the turbo to the wastegate. If your fingers turn black, replace them with new hoses.


If they don't turn black, replace them anyway.

Thank you Earl. Hoses replaced. Boost not going over 15 psi. At WOT. zero knock. 690 on O2.
Have some numbers at idle and was hoping for some feed back
AF 04
L8 33
BAT. 13.6
INT 128
BL 150
CLT 182
ATS 132
R 800
TPS .44
IAC 34
CC 217
MAL 00
O2 667
I really appreciate you guys

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[GNRick]

BL should be 128 +- 10. You have a vacuum leak. Do a search for boost leak detector. Possible areas to leak are vacuum hoses, egr valve, throttle body shaft seals. Also search for smoke machine. they are around $1000 new but I bought mine off Craigs List for $300 from a shop that was closing up. Best tool I ever bought. Oh, TPS should be .42.

 

[jopaustu]

Pop like the tranny TV cable ratcheting probably why the WOT TPS reading was off.


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Finally put some miles on the car this evening. Notice the shift getting funny, especially from first to second. Kinda a slipping. Reset the tv cable per vortex buicks. Back to nice firm shift.Larrym right on the money. Working on vacuum leaks as far as hoses and connections, but can't get my BL off of 150 at idle. Noticed a cracked check valve from the vacuum block before it tees to the egr and points sorta uknown at this time. I'm gonna order a block off plate for the egr and try to remove as much un needed vacuum hose as possible.Other than the simple connections, what needs to stay?
Is there a write up for egr removal?

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[earlbrown]

EGR removal:

Step 1) Remove EGR

Step 2) Block off hole. Enjoy much cleaner looking intake.


Make sure you have a chip that doesn't want the EGR there.


With your BLM's maxed out, are you sure the engine is lean at that moment and actually wants the fuel? Have you welded up the cracked DS header yet?

 

[jopaustu]

I have welded te DS header though it has recently began its "tick tick" again I am very green to "tuning" and understand little of the Bl (more tonight than Friday when I installed scanmaster). I have been reading TT and vortex write ups. Was told it was a probable air leak though. Have TT chip. Not sure if it uses EGR. I truely appreciate all the help and insight through this forum. - Joe


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[jopaustu]

Earl- the car exhaust smells very noxious and rich at idle. My wife won't even ride in it.. lol.. I'm not sure where you were going with the last bit of your post, but I'm willing to learn. Thank you

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[earlbrown]

When the drivers side header cracks, raw air sneaks it's way into the exhaust system. When the o2 sees that foreign air, it tells the ECM to start adding fuel.

What you end up with is high BLMs at idle and stinky rich idle mixtures.

Then when you kick the crap out of it and pressurize the manifolds, your boost suffers because the exhaust energy gets blown out the crack with that 'tick tick' noise you've been hearing.

Might be time to see if there's a new crack running right along side the previous repair bead.