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There's a few other things to take into consideration here too.
In reading your post and sig, it appears that your car is very heavy. The T-Top cars already weigh more, per the extra bracing and glass tops. Then it appears you've also added to the problem with a big stereo system. I've learned over the years to sacrifice the tunes for the ET's! Anyway, you're already a little handicapped per the weight of the car issue. Hopefully you yourself don't weigh more than 150-175. :)

Back in the early 90's, the PitBull chip was all the rage. It was the best upgrade at the time, but that is ancient history now! I don't think ATR has changed their chips in a long time, and today's fast cars are now running low timing and high boost. The PitBull is notorious for higher timing levels, and often prone to detonation. Detonation = slower ET's and broken parts! However, you aren't going to run worth a flip with your stock chip either! Back in 1992, I went 12.61 with a stock fuel pump, stock injectors, PitBull Street chip, and about 20psi. However, it was a 50/50 mix of C16 and 93 octane. I wouldn't recommend it now!

This was also when it cost $250+ for a good external fuel pump upgrade, before we had these wonderful Walbro $110 intank options. With pumps being so inexpensive and readily available these days, it should absolutely be the first thing you do, before playing a game of Russian Roullete with your car, and hoping you have enough pump to support it! By the time you hear it clattering audiblely, it's often too late. If by chance you decide to go ahead and run it, PLEASE be conservative on the boost (18psi), and run a good mix of high octane race fuel. If you don't, then you'll have no sympathy from anyone on this board when it pops a head gasket or grenades a ring-land!

One final step I would recommend, for good measure, would be to get a volt meter and check the power output at the pump. It's easy to check, and don't be shocked if you see it reading extremely low. If it reads low, it should be another red flag for not taking it to the track until you upgrade the pump. The stock injectors will get you mid 12's with no problem, as long as they have a pump that can feed them. I also recommend buying that set of 36's from Red, if you can afford em'. They're a great first step upgrade, and will support up to mid 11 ET's.
 
Originally posted by JToups386
There's a few other things to take into consideration here too.
In reading your post and sig, it appears that your car is very heavy. The T-Top cars already weigh more, per the extra bracing and glass tops. Then it appears you've also added to the problem with a big stereo system. I've learned over the years to sacrifice the tunes for the ET's! Anyway, you're already a little handicapped per the weight of the car issue. Hopefully you yourself don't weigh more than 150-175. :)

Back in the early 90's, the PitBull chip was all the rage. It was the best upgrade at the time, but that is ancient history now! I don't think ATR has changed their chips in a long time, and today's fast cars are now running low timing and high boost. The PitBull is notorious for higher timing levels, and often prone to detonation. Detonation = slower ET's and broken parts! However, you aren't going to run worth a flip with your stock chip either! Back in 1992, I went 12.61 with a stock fuel pump, stock injectors, PitBull Street chip, and about 20psi. However, it was a 50/50 mix of C16 and 93 octane. I wouldn't recommend it now!

This was also when it cost $250+ for a good external fuel pump upgrade, before we had these wonderful Walbro $110 intank options. With pumps being so inexpensive and readily available these days, it should absolutely be the first thing you do, before playing a game of Russian Roullete with your car, and hoping you have enough pump to support it! By the time you hear it clattering audiblely, it's often too late. If by chance you decide to go ahead and run it, PLEASE be conservative on the boost (18psi), and run a good mix of high octane race fuel. If you don't, then you'll have no sympathy from anyone on this board when it pops a head gasket or grenades a ring-land!

One final step I would recommend, for good measure, would be to get a volt meter and check the power output at the pump. It's easy to check, and don't be shocked if you see it reading extremely low. If it reads low, it should be another red flag for not taking it to the track until you upgrade the pump. The stock injectors will get you mid 12's with no problem, as long as they have a pump that can feed them. I also recommend buying that set of 36's from Red, if you can afford em'. They're a great first step upgrade, and will support up to mid 11 ET's.

Oh man, I weighed it last year at the track, but can't remember what it was...First off, my amp and box probably weight like 30-35 lbs. (box is small). Nothing too major. The spare tire was just thrown out (rotted), so I take that into consideration too. I am a lightweight! 5'10 and 145 lbs. :)

One thing to note, I just put got the free flowing exhaust (read the sig) done yesterday, and I feel a big difference. The other guys on the board said I could see 12's with my setup now, but I'm not sure I want to run it with my pump. I'll wait until I get everything fuel-ralated first, like those 50 pounders, PTE 93 chip, Walbro 340 and hotwire, and fuel pressure guage (coming any day). Just to note, I have never put a 160 degree thermostat in, but one is coming in the mail from Kirbins. How necessary is this anyway?

So, you think I should add some race fuel when I finally go to the track? I was planning on just running 94 octane with the PTE chip (two weeks I'll have everything). Also, what is your prediction of what I'll run (with the 340 and injectors)?

As for buying the 36 pounders from Red's, I almost did, but couldn't get in touch with him, so now I'm back to the deal with the 50's. :)
 
Originally posted by TurboTer
As for buying the 36 pounders from Red's, I almost did, but couldn't get in touch with him, so now I'm back to the deal with the 50's. :)

out of 13 people that emailed me about them you were the only onle to offer less than i quoted which was a real good deal.

$279 for the injecters
$75 for the chip
+ shipping and handling

so i offered then at almost $100 cheaper than they costed which i would consiter a killer deal since they are still in the package they came in.

oh yea they sold very quickly..:cool:
 
Originally posted by REDS HOT AIR
out of 13 people that emailed me about them you were the only onle to offer less than i quoted which was a real good deal.

$279 for the injecters
$75 for the chip
+ shipping and handling

so i offered then at almost $100 cheaper than they costed which i would consiter a killer deal since they are still in the package they came in.

oh yea they sold very quickly..:cool:

It doesn't matter anymore, now that my car is near totalled. :( Read this thread:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=55059
 
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