What kind of oil to run


10's here i come
What is the best oil and wt to run in my hotair, the guyi got it from ran 5-30 is this a good wt , the temp here is about 60-70.
From personal experience and testing I use only Valvoline Synpower 10w-30. I also have an engine oil cooler. You can't get any more protection. Also using the Valvoline synthetic, I notices the turbo spooled up a little faster. That is probably because the oil is much more slick and allows the bearings to spin more freely. The engine oil cooler is not necessary, but very helpful and extra insurance for your motor. I beleive they actually extend the life of an engine.
My on track testing of many oils has led me to use Quaker semi synthetic blend 10w30. I've tried Royal Purple synthetic, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1 synthetic and almost every imaginable version of conventional oil.

I think that a full synthetic might provide more engine life, but for a 1/4 mile engine that sees regular maintenance I think that the Quaker is the way to go. I noticed an immediate difference going from Mobil 1 synthetic to the Quaker semi syn. 60 foot times were better as was overall MPH. It's pretty much all I run now.
Beware of the SLUDGE!:eek: As most other people know stay away from cracker state.

No flame intended. Everybody has an opinion.
Stephen, again, no flame intended here, but if you re-read my post it says:

Quote "I think that a full synthetic might provide more engine life, but for a 1/4 mile engine that sees regular maintenance I think that the Quaker is the way to go."

Basically, I feel that the Quaker semi-synthetic will make your car faster. Not last longer. If you take apart your engine at regular intervals, and replace bearings etc. like any good race engine should have, I don't think that you'll notice a difference in oils. But you sure will notice it on the track!

By the way, I've had no failures with this oil. INCLUDING no flat cams.

I've flattened 2 cams with Valvoline.
I personaly run Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50. I had a bad expericence with 10w30. The oil got very hot and the turbo bearings broke down. The impeller started to hit the housing. From then on I chose a heavier oil.
That is why I run an oil cooler. You get the benefits of a better flowing oil without worrying about it getting too hot or too thin to protect.

Like I said earlier, everybody has an opinion about oils. I choose to base mine on actual test. I did my high school science project on motor oils (heating them up and freezing them to test slickness and flow). I was a Castrol user until I performed the experement. Mobil 1 did very well though. I found the Valvoline to flow better cold, was slick while other oils tested were no better than water. Also the Valvoline was a cleaner oil.

It really is up to you to decide what you'll use. Best of luck! I do however recommend not using 5w-30 unless the temp drops below 10*F regularly. 10w-40 and 5w-50 is also a No-No. This is from a GM TSB for all cars ever produced. If need be I'll go into detail about that at a later time.
Question 1: What kind of oil cooler do you use. Aftermarket or stock 87 setup in the radiator?
Question 2: So why is a no no to run anything over 40w? Do need you to go into great detail, just need an idea why.
My oil cooler is an aftermarket one made by Hayden. The only problem I had was you need to get two 3/8 pipe thread 90* fittings so the oil hoses going to the cooler won't interfere with the A/C belt.

As for the oil here goes. 10w-40 (and 5w-50) oil is bad. To acheive the great difference between the two numbers you must add a great amount of viscosity suspenders to the oil to acheive this rating. These additives they put in are a thick sludge that does nothing to lubricate and sticks more to the inside of the motor. 10w-40 is made up of about 30% of this sludge. Therefore it does not serve its purpose to lubricate nearly as well as 10w-30 which is made up of far less additives and more pure slick oil.

Many people will say "I've run 10w-40 in everything with no real problems". The only thing I can say is "How much longer could your motor have lasted if you didn't use 10w-40?" and "How much cleaner could your engine have been?"

For people that are concerned about oil thinning out too much, use a high quality oil. Synthetics are worth the $4.xx per quart. Also use an oil cooler. There is no question that an engine and turbo will last longer and work better with cooler oil.

Some companies now offer oil and transmission coolers in one unit. I have not used one personally yet, but every car should have both. You can kill two birds with one stone by using a combination cooler.
I have a problem with synthetics.

I know it's better oil by far, but what I don't understand, is WHY does "any"w-50 weight synthetic have all the viscosity of anti-freeze? It's nowhere near the viscosity of regular 10w-30 oil! I know all oil thins out when it's hot, but still, synthetic is too thin for me! WHY can't they thicken it up a bit? I'd LOVE to use synthetics, but I won't until they actually come up with a thicker oil! (I guess this is why there's semi-synthetic?)

I tried Mobil 1 5w-50 in my harley after it was broke in. I drove it about 3 miles, and I stopped to check to see if my oil pump was broke! Nope, oil's flowing fine...that poor engine couldn't have made more racket if I'd used water! I drained it, put in some new 50 weight, and all was quiet!

If the oil won't cushion the moving parts from making racket, then it's too thin to do much good in my book.
Bfh - I tend to agree with you, but I run the stuff with the viscosity of antifreeze (mobil1 15-50) and have way better oil pressure than 10-30 and even 20-50 (the stuff that takes ten minutes to empty a quart into the engine). I don't know how it does it but it does.

BTW I took my pan off to change my rain main and everything was spotless......about 15k on her now (I know low miles.) My point is I trust Mobil1, and it only.......just me tho

With comparable viscosities, my car has about 10psi less oil pressure with synthetic than conventional oil. Any oil leaks also seem to leak more with synthetic. I run conventional oil but I have a big oil cooler. In the winter time I have to put duct tape over half of the cooler (no thermostat) or the oil pressure will never go below 40psi at idle. Before when I would push the car really hard when it was 100 degrees outside the pressure would get as low as 10psi. With the cooler it never goes below 15psi and within a couple minutes is back up to 25psi.
Of course a Harley is a completely different kind of motor. Air cooled instead of liquid cooled (like a lawn mower). It's viscosity needs are very different. Let's say that you were having mechanical noises in your Buick from 10w-30. You would have some problems that require attention. The Buick engineers weren't as dumb as some people thing when they recomended 10w-30 year round in our cars.

One more thing, better oil pressure isn't really any better for the motor. As long as the oil pressure is within factory specs with 10w-30, stay with it. If it is too low, find out why and fix it.:)
I agree with you Stephen on the coolers. I made sure to install both oil and trans coolers in my car for a little extra piece of mind. Car runs a lot cooler now with the oil cooler, and feels as though it has more power after a long night of cruising. I got a Derale unit from Summit for 60 bucks. The combo cooler is an even 100. When I pull my A/C, I'll consider it :)
I realize a harley is different, but racket is racket, and how an engine is cooled shouldn't mean much (especially when in my experiment, the engine wasn't even warmed up yet). Harley's merely flow oil thru, at very little pressure. (4psi @ 2000 is normal on mine) Oil is pumped to the rockers, then it's pretty much splash-n-spray after that. And it's very apparent to me that the reason for all the racket I got, was because the splashed synthetic oil was NOT viscous enough to fill the spaces between the cam ends and bushings, cam gear teeth, piston-to-cylinder wall, rods-to-wrist pins, and all the roller bearings! IMO, racket=metal-to-metal.

I Understand the difference between the ball-bearing shaped molecules of normal oil, and the spagetti-shaped molecules of synthetic oil. I also understand that a synthetic oil molecule is nearly impossible to destroy, unlike a normal oil molecule. But until they figure out how to squeeze enough molecules between the moving parts of MY engines to keep them quiet, I ain't using it!
so many people using synthetic huuummmm

lots of people wiping cams and having oil leake problems too..

i would not put another synthetic oil in anything and would not recomend it to anyone..

i have had motors with thousands of miles on them that were fine and switched to mobil one and motors got noisy ate cam gears that run distribiter and wiped lobes off cams that were fin for several thousand miles before hand..

one of my elcamino's i was running a 350 motor and a super t10 4 speed and i started running mobil one sythetic gear oil in it and the damn thing didnt want to shift right well i learned to live with it till first couple passes at the track it broke teeth off the input shaft and it wont from over powering it...crab didnt run but high 12's and anyone that knows 4 speeds that's nothing for a super t10

point is it sucks in any case unless you need to lube your palm it might be good for that..
I agree with REDS and BFH about synthetics. I think the more important thing is how often you change the oil. I change it every 2,000 miles or at each blown headgasket, whichever comes first. :)