What next?

[blueta]

Ok, I'm looking to give my car a big kick in the butt...what should I do next. I want to be close to...or if not in the 12's if possible. I was thinking of some ideas:

Making a home made intercooler setup if possible (I saw someone figured out how to make one out of an intercooler off a volvo)...

Pro pain kit

Headers

used turbo

Which one would be the best bang for the buck? I was thinking if I could do the intercooler cheap enough I can possibly do another...we'll see. Any other ideas are welcome..the car just doesn't seem to be as fast as it should be..I thought it was because I was reading 900 volts on the OTC monitor 85, but someone stated that OTC's measure about 100 volts higher...anyone know if this is true? Thanks.

 

[blueta]

Oh yeah, I am only planning on doing ONE of the above things.

 

[WH1]

Since you're only going to do one, I would get a bigger turbo. As far as headers go, they're expensive if you go after market. But if your's are cracked then you're losing potential boost. So you might have your's checked and rewelded if needed.

 

[blueta]

The headers have been re-welded so they should be ok for now. I was also thinking of the turbo too. I already have a 2800 stall. Anyone have any suggestions for a turbo that would really benefit my combo?

 

[WFO]

anything up to a ta-60 should run fine with your 2800 stall once you get it tuned.i'd also go with the turbo.

fwiw,there's no magic o2 mv #.just because you are running a certain # doesn't mean you're done tuning.you need to set your boost to a reasonable #(16-17#)then make a pass in 3rd gear and monitor knock counts.keep leaning it out until you get a little kr then put a little back in.

you need to install your fuel pump and regulator before you start tuning.

later,sean

 

[b4black]

Originally posted by blueta
..I thought it was because I was reading 900 volts on the OTC monitor 85, but someone stated that OTC's measure about 100 volts higher...anyone know if this is true? Thanks.

Connect a digital multileter directly to te oxygen sensor and compare the readings to the OTC. You'll also be able to see the how slow the ALDL upadtes to the info the the OTC.

 

[blueta]

b4black, I don't have access to a digital multimeter..do you? Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have an otc 85 too? How does it compare to the meter? Is it really about 100 higher like someone told me? What volts are you tuning yours around...900's or low 800's??

WFO, I know that there is no magic o2 volt, but I was just looking for a starting point. Just someone mentioned that they read different then the other scan tools. Also about turbo selection. I want to keep the stock injectors as long as possible because of $$ reasons (that's why I can only do one of the above mods). Is there any direct bolt on turbos that would work fine with what I have now?

I got this quote (I forget off hand what company this is):
The upgrade would be like a super 60 wheel with the competition prep done. That's the balancing of the entire rotating assembly together and not each wheel seperate. This allows for longer turbo life and better spool up. 30 lbs. per minute at 15 lbs. of boost can get you 275 plus horsepower. $175
You think this is worth it? Or just b/s? Thanks

 

[b4black]

Yes, I have a OTC 85. I didn't notice any difference vs the DMM, but I wasn't really looking either. I use the DMM because the OTC's update is so slow (a result of the ALDL/ECM).

You can get DMM's dirt cheap at radio shack. Just pinch a wire in the O2 sensor connector (+) and run it to the cars interior. Use the dash/chassis for the ground (-).