What to do with rearend?

[ringman]

So I took my rearend to a local rearend shop. My car should run between that 10.5 to 11.0 range, so I was going to do Moser 30 spline axles, new posi unit, new gear set, rear cover, and longer studs. My concern is with the c clips. My options they gave are....do what I just listed, and hope the axles don't break. For $200 more do c clip eliminators, which they basically guaranteed WILL leak, and they recommend not going that route. And the last option is a different ends, which is $400 more, but I'll need all new brakes from an early 70s Camaro/Chevelle. The last option would eliminate the possibility of the axles flying out if broken. I really don't want to piece together a brake set. Any thoughts or ideas would greatly be appreciated, thanks

 

[scojack_2001]

No issues here with my 8.5". Eaton 30 spline, Moser axles, TA girdle, original 3.42s. No problems at all. Been 1.54 in the 60' on slick at full weight. Looking for mid 10s here.

 

[balanegra]

I agree with scojack, I do 1:48-1.50 all the time. No issues. If you feel the need for the C clip eliminators they can be installed and not leak. They need to follow the instructions and check the fit of all the parts. It's not that hard. If they "guarantee" leaking axles they are doing something wrong and not willing to learn.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Nascar83Fan]

I would find another place to have do the work if they are telling you that they can't keep it from leaking if they do the c clip eliminator install.
That would raise a few red flags. Doesn't sound like they really know what they are doing and the last thing you need is to have something fail from lack of abilities of the people working on the rear end.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Chrisk]

I installed c clip eliminators and they don't leak.

 

[ijames]

Well, NHRA says you need C clip eliminators in the 10's (sorry, having a brain fade and can't remember the exact et but it is either 11.50 or 10.99). I have one friend who broke an axle when he was in the 13's, and that was exciting enough just to hear about it. I'm not that quick yet but I had an axle seal start leaking and the axle was scarred so I needed new ones anyway so I had my rear rebuilt with moser 30 spline axles, eaton 30 spline posi, and the Ford weld on ends. The axles are all the same price and you have to buy axles with c clip elinators so it's no more expensive there. The ends are about $150 and then the labor to get them welded on by a shop that has the right fixture to keep it all straight. Then you need brakes. I went with the lowest cost, loaded 9"x2" Ford drum brakes. Again, you just tell them what lug pattern you want on the axles and drums, there is no extra cost, so my TR wheels bolt right up. I was shocked but with a little finagling to get the emergency brake cables threaded through the Ford backing plate they hooked right up and didn't even need adjusting. So, I think the brakes were $300, the ends $150, and the extra to get them welded on was maybe $300?, and now I have a legal rear that will never leak and has much beefier axle bearings than the c clip eliminators. The rear brakes stop really well, and are a good complement to the front B Body brake upgrade with 12" rotors. With a 3000ish stall Yank 9" converter I could easily hold 18-20 psi of boost at 3500 rpm on the footbrake. Too bad the Nittos would only hold 4-5 psi . There are disc brake options, I think from an Explorer, that would add several hundred more $$ if you want to got that way. Anyway, I just didn't want any part of the leaks and frequent bearing replacement of the c clip eliminators (I was told by a Moser engineer that their c clip eliminators would need new seals and bearings every 8-10,000 miles on the street). Oh, you can go with the 70's A body ends and brakes, but I think the Ford parts are beefier and the brakes better and all the parts are readily available, just get shoes and drums for a big station wagon from the 80's.

 

[coach]

Well, NHRA says you need C clip eliminators in the 10's (sorry, having a brain fade and can't remember the exact et but it is either 11.50 or 10.99). I have one friend who broke an axle when he was in the 13's, and that was exciting enough just to hear about it. I'm not that quick yet but I had an axle seal start leaking and the axle was scarred so I needed new ones anyway so I had my rear rebuilt with moser 30 spline axles, eaton 30 spline posi, and the Ford weld on ends. The axles are all the same price and you have to buy axles with c clip elinators so it's no more expensive there. The ends are about $150 and then the labor to get them welded on by a shop that has the right fixture to keep it all straight. Then you need brakes. I went with the lowest cost, loaded 9"x2" Ford drum brakes. Again, you just tell them what lug pattern you want on the axles and drums, there is no extra cost, so my TR wheels bolt right up. I was shocked but with a little finagling to get the emergency brake cables threaded through the Ford backing plate they hooked right up and didn't even need adjusting. So, I think the brakes were $300, the ends $150, and the extra to get them welded on was maybe $300?, and now I have a legal rear that will never leak and has much beefier axle bearings than the c clip eliminators. The rear brakes stop really well, and are a good complement to the front B Body brake upgrade with 12" rotors. With a 3000ish stall Yank 9" converter I could easily hold 18-20 psi of boost at 3500 rpm on the footbrake. Too bad the Nittos would only hold 4-5 psi . There are disc brake options, I think from an Explorer, that would add several hundred more $$ if you want to got that way. Anyway, I just didn't want any part of the leaks and frequent bearing replacement of the c clip eliminators (I was told by a Moser engineer that their c clip eliminators would need new seals and bearings every 8-10,000 miles on the street). Oh, you can go with the 70's A body ends and brakes, but I think the Ford parts are beefier and the brakes better and all the parts are readily available, just get shoes and drums for a big station wagon from the 80's.

You sir...did the correct thing. The Ford ends and brakes are the best way to go. I am narrowing my rear about 1.5" per side. The Ford ends and brakes are going on for sure.
As for the original post...if you put 30 spline axles in...the only way your gonna break one is if it is a failure in the manufacturing process. You wont overpower it and break it.
As for the c-clip elim...95% leak...and the other 5% just havent started yet. I dont think it has anything to do with the shop...it has to do with the tubes used on the rear end from the factory. Some tubes were just a little more true then others. They seal better. I have a spare housing, and the end of the tube is not as nice as the one in my car.

 

[GBGN1]

Get the eliminators and dont look back...... You guys know what year and model the brakes would come off of ?

 

[coach]

Get the eliminators and dont look back...... You guys know what year and model the brakes would come off of ?

If you use the Ford ends...you can pick from a dozen models of car. You just need to find the backup plates to start, and then get the hardware kit and wheel cylinders.
The GM brakes, I would call HR Parts or someone who knows the A bodies pretty well.

 

[jpwalt1987]

If you do C clip eliminators use the Strange brand. Its a roller bearing instead of a ball bearing like the mosers. I used Right Stuff sealant and they don't leak.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[coach]

If he uses 30 spline internals...forget the eliminators. He is not going to break an axle unless its a fluke...not going 11's

 

[novaderrik]

i'd get the Ford 9" housing ends with the GM flange pattern... this allows you to use pretty much any rear brakes off any Chevy passenger car made from the mid 60's (Chevelles, Camaros, etc) to the mid 90's (Impala SS/ Caprice) except for 78-88 G and 82-90 F bodies and the 80's S series trucks and have it bolt right on..