What's The Best Launch Technique?
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T
TTA89
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Pull the E-brake, Stand on the Foot Brake, Build about 15psi and let it go.
Captain Mark
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Just got my new Hoosiers put on, so I will be trying this launch tonight!
Captain Mark
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Good news!
Former best: 1/8th
8.31 with 1.85 60'
With new tires:
8.14 with 1.77 60' @ 85.88 mph
That time should equal abround a 12.8 quarter. That's more like it.
Very happy with that. But as the night wore on, my e-brake got weaker until it wouldn't really hold past 3 or 4 psi. Is this common? what's up?
Former best: 1/8th
8.31 with 1.85 60'
With new tires:
8.14 with 1.77 60' @ 85.88 mph
That time should equal abround a 12.8 quarter. That's more like it.
Very happy with that. But as the night wore on, my e-brake got weaker until it wouldn't really hold past 3 or 4 psi. Is this common? what's up?
T
TTA89
Guest
Not sure about the e-brake but your MPH is way low for a stock "tweaked car" You should be around 90-91 in the 1/8th.
How are you running it? Your 60ft will get better as you tune the car in and make more power.
What Chip/Boost/Fuel/02s? Locking the convertor?
How are you running it? Your 60ft will get better as you tune the car in and make more power.
What Chip/Boost/Fuel/02s? Locking the convertor?
Originally posted by Captain Mark
Good news!
Former best: 1/8th
8.31 with 1.85 60'
With new tires:
8.14 with 1.77 60' @ 85.88 mph
That time should equal abround a 12.8 quarter. That's more like it.
Very happy with that. But as the night wore on, my e-brake got weaker until it wouldn't really hold past 3 or 4 psi. Is this common? what's up?
Do you have a line lock installed?
If not..heating the discs may be the cuase of poor holding power.
You locking the converter, what were the O2 readings through the traps..On an 1/8 mile track should be 780-800's..any more then your too rich.
I agree with Mike..MPH should be at least 3-4 better,,great would be 90-91 ish..excellent 93-95.. 85 sounds a little low...and MPH has nothing to do with 60 foot..kinda
Almost forgot..congrats on your new best
I would leave at 2-3 lbs with my stock turbo on Nitto's and crank out high 1.6 60 foots on a prepped track..kinda like flashing the converter..on the bigger turbo..way different story.
Also..if you run alky and set it to come on too low..your 60 foot comes down.
I would leave at 2-3 lbs with my stock turbo on Nitto's and crank out high 1.6 60 foots on a prepped track..kinda like flashing the converter..on the bigger turbo..way different story.
Also..if you run alky and set it to come on too low..your 60 foot comes down.
Captain Mark
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Chip - stock
Boost - stock
Turbo - stock
02's - ?
Fuel pressure - 42 psi
Fuel - 104 unleaded, no alky
Line lock - no
Took the car out today and was able to e-brake launch at 10 psi with no problem. I think my pads must have been hot.
I have a power plate, 3" exhaust with no cat, intake, 3"dp, 3200 vigilante stall converter.
So my car should be running more like high 7's to an 8 flat at 92? Sounds pretty quick for stock boost, but you guys are the experts.
I do not have my direct scan hooked up yet. My bad. I need help hooking that thing up. Not real sure how to do it. I need to get help from my local Buick club with that.
I'm still new to this stuff!
Lots of difference in this car and my big block car. These things are complicated, but fun! Now the fun is about to start.
All I know, is this mutha is starting to run, and I like it!
Boost - stock
Turbo - stock
02's - ?
Fuel pressure - 42 psi
Fuel - 104 unleaded, no alky
Line lock - no
Took the car out today and was able to e-brake launch at 10 psi with no problem. I think my pads must have been hot.
I have a power plate, 3" exhaust with no cat, intake, 3"dp, 3200 vigilante stall converter.
So my car should be running more like high 7's to an 8 flat at 92? Sounds pretty quick for stock boost, but you guys are the experts.
I do not have my direct scan hooked up yet. My bad. I need help hooking that thing up. Not real sure how to do it. I need to get help from my local Buick club with that.
I'm still new to this stuff!
Lots of difference in this car and my big block car. These things are complicated, but fun! Now the fun is about to start.
All I know, is this mutha is starting to run, and I like it!
T
TTA89
Guest
Why are you running the stock chip and Boost? Spend the 20 bucks for a chip and up the boost and add 60hp to the car.
Why did you put a convertor in it?
Why did you put a convertor in it?
Line lock will keep your rear pads cool...
The stock chip really isnt a performance chip..even tho it has 26 degrees total timing ..like a race chip..but a lot of its parameters are not intended or set for racing.
Racing the car without a scantool is russian roulette..its not a 350 chevy..you rattle the motor with knock retard you'll be picking up pieces off the track...especially running that high timing stock chip..
Direct scan is nice..but you need to see knock as it is happening..not after. In other words..if you cannot see the retard numbers increasing..recording when it blows a head gasket doesnt do you any good.
Seriously look at a scanmaster or get a knock guage with lites. this should absolutely be the very first mod the car gets..a way of seeing knock immediately.
for a car running stock boost levels..your MPH is rite. If you added a chip, upped the boost to low 20's, the mph will go up..but at 16 PSI..85 is all she wrote. Add 60 hp..then 90 becomes a reality.Make sense.
Mark, ya got a great incentive..Mike TTA89 got me set in the rite direction..he's my teacher ..now I reciprocrate the favor... Cranks are like hens teeth for these motors...Ya have to monitor knock..I cannot say this term enough times..."if" you run without knock, there is practically no limit to the performance potential of the stock motor..trust me when I say you cant hear 6 degrees of retard..but this 6 degrees will destroy the bearings in short order..I probably have 500 passes minimum and zero engine related failures..never been opened...just need to follow a couple rules..knock is absolutely RULE 1..no other will save your motor.
Sorry to sound like a broken record..you may think recording the runs on a laptop is quirky..once you get your system going..you'll be happy you did.
as far as your DS..get a spare ECM from the junkyard..as long as the 7148 prefix is on it..it will work with our cars. 86 Lesabres, Delta 88's,GM 3.0 FWD motored cars..a lot used them..just look at the motor..if it has the same coil pack as ours..the ecm should be the same. Cut that one for your DS hookup..leave your original ecm alone..and you'll need the little calpak chip from your TTA ecm..its next to the stock chip.
You have tires, tranny, inclination..and are having fun with the world's easiest car to mod.. get the electronics to verify whats happening and safeguard your investment..do it now or after a rebuild.
Feel free to email me if needed..no problemo
The stock chip really isnt a performance chip..even tho it has 26 degrees total timing ..like a race chip..but a lot of its parameters are not intended or set for racing.
Racing the car without a scantool is russian roulette..its not a 350 chevy..you rattle the motor with knock retard you'll be picking up pieces off the track...especially running that high timing stock chip..
Direct scan is nice..but you need to see knock as it is happening..not after. In other words..if you cannot see the retard numbers increasing..recording when it blows a head gasket doesnt do you any good.
Seriously look at a scanmaster or get a knock guage with lites. this should absolutely be the very first mod the car gets..a way of seeing knock immediately.
for a car running stock boost levels..your MPH is rite. If you added a chip, upped the boost to low 20's, the mph will go up..but at 16 PSI..85 is all she wrote. Add 60 hp..then 90 becomes a reality.Make sense.
Mark, ya got a great incentive..Mike TTA89 got me set in the rite direction..he's my teacher
..now I reciprocrate the favor... Cranks are like hens teeth for these motors...Ya have to monitor knock..I cannot say this term enough times..."if" you run without knock, there is practically no limit to the performance potential of the stock motor..trust me when I say you cant hear 6 degrees of retard..but this 6 degrees will destroy the bearings in short order..I probably have 500 passes minimum and zero engine related failures..never been opened...just need to follow a couple rules..knock is absolutely RULE 1..no other will save your motor.Sorry to sound like a broken record..you may think recording the runs on a laptop is quirky..once you get your system going..you'll be happy you did.
as far as your DS..get a spare ECM from the junkyard..as long as the 7148 prefix is on it..it will work with our cars. 86 Lesabres, Delta 88's,GM 3.0 FWD motored cars..a lot used them..just look at the motor..if it has the same coil pack as ours..the ecm should be the same. Cut that one for your DS hookup..leave your original ecm alone..and you'll need the little calpak chip from your TTA ecm..its next to the stock chip.
You have tires, tranny, inclination..and are having fun with the world's easiest car to mod.. get the electronics to verify whats happening and safeguard your investment..do it now or after a rebuild.
Feel free to email me if needed..no problemo
Mark,
The right custom combo-specific chip will wake it up quick!
Eric at www.turbotweak.com or Bob Bailey come HIGHLY recommended!
HTH
Captain Mark
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2002
- Messages
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Sorry boys, I should have mentioned I DO have a Casper Knock guage. I make sure there is no knock when I run at the track.
As for the 3200 stall, it was on the car when I bought it.
I also have 2 thrasher chips that came with the car. A 92 and a 100. When I try either one of these chips, upon power braking at launch, the car runs really rough and I can't build rpm, or boost?!? Kinda sputters
So for now I am running the stock chip. Does any of that make sense.....bad chips maybe?
Can't raise the boost in it's current state. It came with a Tial external wastegate that is old technology. It has to be taken apart and replace springs in it to up the boost, a real pain, and I want to replace it. I am just trying to get all I can out of the car in it's current state. I like the thought of optimizing what i have before I start modding any more. I think I may be getting all I can get now in it's current state.
Appreciate the help. Time to get the DS setup, up the boost and get a good chip.
You boys are awesome, thanks
As for the 3200 stall, it was on the car when I bought it.
I also have 2 thrasher chips that came with the car. A 92 and a 100. When I try either one of these chips, upon power braking at launch, the car runs really rough and I can't build rpm, or boost?!? Kinda sputters
So for now I am running the stock chip. Does any of that make sense.....bad chips maybe?Can't raise the boost in it's current state. It came with a Tial external wastegate that is old technology. It has to be taken apart and replace springs in it to up the boost, a real pain, and I want to replace it. I am just trying to get all I can out of the car in it's current state. I like the thought of optimizing what i have before I start modding any more. I think I may be getting all I can get now in it's current state.
Appreciate the help. Time to get the DS setup, up the boost and get a good chip.
You boys are awesome, thanks
T
TTA89
Guest
The Thrasher chips may have the "stutter" code in them, I don't remember much about it but its supposed to "stutter" at a certain RPM to help give you consitant launches or something, so basically it will keep the car at 3000rpm at each launch.
Thats my guess
Time for a new chip though... And the Knock gauge doesnt really do you any good. How do you know if you have 1 degree of knock or 20 degrees of knock?
Get the DS setup, but you really should buy a Scanmaster.
Thats my guess
Time for a new chip though... And the Knock gauge doesnt really do you any good. How do you know if you have 1 degree of knock or 20 degrees of knock?
Get the DS setup, but you really should buy a Scanmaster.
Captain Mark
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After researching the Thrasher chip, you are correct. The stutter is programmed in. Can't say I like it, but I will experiment with it. Thisnk I'll put it in and take it to the track this week and see what happens.
Where is the best place to buy a scanmaster? If you guys are tryin to scare the hell out of me about blowing my engine up.....it worked!
Where is the best place to buy a scanmaster? If you guys are tryin to scare the hell out of me about blowing my engine up.....it worked!
T
TTA89
Guest
I think every vendor sells a scanmaster, just pick one and order it. Order a chip while your at it.
The stutter I wasn't a fan of either.
The stutter I wasn't a fan of either.
Originally posted by Captain Mark
After researching the Thrasher chip, you are correct. The stutter is programmed in. Can't say I like it, but I will experiment with it. Thisnk I'll put it in and take it to the track this week and see what happens.
Where is the best place to buy a scanmaster? If you guys are tryin to scare the hell out of me about blowing my engine up.....it worked!
I would feel like I was doing you a dis-service by not warning you... Ramchargers, Postons etc sell them..
My buddy Roy and Laz run a scanmaster on their 9 second GN..believe it or not..
I bought mine off the board here and paid like 125. but that was a steal. Usually they sell used for 180-200 dollars and new for 250..worst case scenario..when you go sell it..you lose 50-70 bucks..I dont think you'll ever get rid of it as long as you own your car tho.
Contact me off board for a chip...
Julio
