Tom Tom Turbo
Turbo Goes Woo Woo
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2002
- Messages
- 1,943
Guys, I am really struggling with this decision. I have a hardtop 1986 WH1 T-Type with 106K on the chassis. My father bought the car new, I've had it since 2000 and its been my off and on project since then. I got some quotes to repair the rust/repaint the car but I just don't know that I can justify the cost when I can probably go buy what I want for the same money or less. I'll list the good and bad, but I'm just trying to get an idea of what this car might be worth, either whole or minus engine and trans.
Interior: 7/10. The seats have no rips or tears in them, very clean but the seat foam is weak. Carpet is slightly faded but all there and not torn. Newer headliner, dash pad is cracked but I have a near mint dash to go with it. Digital dash works, but fuel level is occasionally off. Pioneer CD player, all speakers replaced with Infinity or Rockford Fosgate units. Wired for amp and subwoofer as well. Full list of AutometerUltra-Lite gauges (boost, FP, temp, oil, volts) Innovate wide band 02, Scanmaster 2.1. A/C has been retrofitted, reman'd compressor, new heater core as well.
Exterior: 5.5/10. Here's the problem....car sat outside from 2000-2006. All the bumper fillers are shot, driver side rocker is crumbling, both rear quarters have blistering, trunk lid is rotting in the corners and underneath. Doors are 95% rust free, just some minor surface stuff on the inside lower lip. Fenders and hood are good, header panel is nice, for the most part the body is straight (minus a few little dings)
Engine: less than 1,000 miles on new SG1 block. Stock bottom end, ARP bolts, HV oil pump and front cover, 206/206 billet roller cam, heads have been ported, polished, larger valves and o-ringed. Ported upper and lower intake, EGR removed, 50 lb injectors, 1.55 T&D roller rockers and pushrods, PowerPlate, 4" inlet pipe, brand new PTE stock location IC, brand new PTE 6262 SP turbo, new Razor's alky kit, new 3" GN1 external gate downpipe, 3" ATR exhaust, TurboTweak SD chip with powerlogger. Hasn't seen more than 15 PSI since built, but still pulls hard.
Trans: Jimmy's level 2 rebuild less than 4,000 miles ago. Precision 3200 multi-disk lock-up converter, big cooler, shift-kit, Kirban D/S loop etc. B&M Pro-Stick shifter in factory console.
Rear: less than 8,000 miles on rebuilt 10 bolt with Auburn Pro locker, Moser 28 spline chrome moly axles, Moser girdle, stock 3.42 gears. Stock brakes with aluminum drums.
Suspension: Bilstein shocks, rear airbags, ATR rear swaybar, Kirban springs. SLP 17x8 hyperblack ZR1 wheels (tires are dry cracked and have about 20K miles on them but are 9 years old)
Interior: 7/10. The seats have no rips or tears in them, very clean but the seat foam is weak. Carpet is slightly faded but all there and not torn. Newer headliner, dash pad is cracked but I have a near mint dash to go with it. Digital dash works, but fuel level is occasionally off. Pioneer CD player, all speakers replaced with Infinity or Rockford Fosgate units. Wired for amp and subwoofer as well. Full list of AutometerUltra-Lite gauges (boost, FP, temp, oil, volts) Innovate wide band 02, Scanmaster 2.1. A/C has been retrofitted, reman'd compressor, new heater core as well.
Exterior: 5.5/10. Here's the problem....car sat outside from 2000-2006. All the bumper fillers are shot, driver side rocker is crumbling, both rear quarters have blistering, trunk lid is rotting in the corners and underneath. Doors are 95% rust free, just some minor surface stuff on the inside lower lip. Fenders and hood are good, header panel is nice, for the most part the body is straight (minus a few little dings)
Engine: less than 1,000 miles on new SG1 block. Stock bottom end, ARP bolts, HV oil pump and front cover, 206/206 billet roller cam, heads have been ported, polished, larger valves and o-ringed. Ported upper and lower intake, EGR removed, 50 lb injectors, 1.55 T&D roller rockers and pushrods, PowerPlate, 4" inlet pipe, brand new PTE stock location IC, brand new PTE 6262 SP turbo, new Razor's alky kit, new 3" GN1 external gate downpipe, 3" ATR exhaust, TurboTweak SD chip with powerlogger. Hasn't seen more than 15 PSI since built, but still pulls hard.
Trans: Jimmy's level 2 rebuild less than 4,000 miles ago. Precision 3200 multi-disk lock-up converter, big cooler, shift-kit, Kirban D/S loop etc. B&M Pro-Stick shifter in factory console.
Rear: less than 8,000 miles on rebuilt 10 bolt with Auburn Pro locker, Moser 28 spline chrome moly axles, Moser girdle, stock 3.42 gears. Stock brakes with aluminum drums.
Suspension: Bilstein shocks, rear airbags, ATR rear swaybar, Kirban springs. SLP 17x8 hyperblack ZR1 wheels (tires are dry cracked and have about 20K miles on them but are 9 years old)
I did a ton of reading on how to repair them and welded new rear quarters on myself. The drivers side isn't perfect but I doubt when I get it painted you'll be able to tell the passenger side was ever replaced unless you open the trunk, and it's all metal. What you have is a good solid car that needs some work, and if you take the time to learn how to do it, you can do it yourself which will make the car even more special than it is right now.
Mine's not done yet but I still keep plugging away at it. If you've got kids it would also be a good "family" project which would help them to understand how a car's put together and how to work on it. 
It's Charlie from the Smyrna AZ.
