Where do I begin?!?

[sullivan711]

I finally started my engine after rebuilding it for 2 years (school is tuff on the walet). It fired up on the first turn which was exciting but at the same time depressing when black smoke was coming out of everything. Well not everything, I have a leak in my up pipe which will be welding shut soon and it is running unbelievably rich. Once the up pipe is sealed again I will through it on the scanner to get some numbers. I guess my questions are
1) what are some good o2 voltages, blms, etc that i need to shoot for?
2) could setting the cam sensor 180degrees off cause a super rich run?
3) how can i test the FPR to see if it is working properly (the pressure was at 38# at idle, when it did idle and not choke itself off.)

I'll hopefullt get back tonight with some numbers. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[redhotrod]

heres some help for ya,

1) try to dial your boost/fuel pressure at WOT to about 800mv. I run my fuel pressure with my setup at 37lbs static(vacuum line off), but everyone should vary a little, depending on whatcha got. At idle, 02's should jump all over the place. but peak around 800-840 mv.

2)I'm not sure, never "tried" it. I know that the fuel would be sitting in your chambers for a bit longer, so maybe. Its pretty simple to check, pull out the spark plug on the front drivers side, crank the motor over slowly until your on the compression stroke(100+psi of air will come out of the spark plug hole) then look at your balancer and take a piece of tape(I think 1.58") to the right of the mark and turn it by hand until the end of the tape is parallel with the timing indicator. then turn your cam sensor until the voltage drops to 0v, your all set now.

3) with the vacuum line off, you should have somewhere around 38 psi. with the vacuum line on it should fluctuate, with any amount of boost you should have 1 psi fuel pressure to each psi of boost above your static setting and on the vacuum side(at idle) it should be lower than your static setting.

hope this helps some.
Good luck

 

[sullivan711]

I didn't get a chance to throw the scanner on the car today, but I did try to turn the cam sensor 180 degrees and it didn't really change anything so I put it back. Tomorrow I think I will rest the cam sensor. My other problem, or main problem however you wish to look at it is that the engine won't rev up for crap! It idles rich but doesn't cut out until you try to give it throttle and then it just stumbles and nearly dies unless you play with the gas a little bit. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I was also thinking it might be the injector/s being stuck wide open but I don't lose fuel pressure when the engine turns off, which to me means the injectors must be closed. Another friend of mine said his FPR was junk and caused a rich run conditio, any ideas????
Thanks again for all the help, it's very much appreciated.

 

[sullivan711]

Another thing, I was rereading the cam sensor setting info on the sticky and it says the high voltage values are between 5-12 volts and a low is 0-2 volts. When I set mine the other night i was getting a high value of 12 but a low value of 7.8volts????? Would this mean my cam sensor is junk? If so, am I able to get just the hall effect sensor or do i need the whole shaft?

Thanks again.

 

[boostmaster]

Try This !!!

First check your tps setting to make sure it's set up correct, should be between .37-.42 volts @ idle. If that's okay my guess would probably be a bad maf. Try diconnecting it and see if you problem clears up and it idles better. And on the cam sensor setting make sure you set it after rotating and marking the crank 25* past TDC or your readings won't be right, but could also be reading strange because you got it 180* out.

 

[sullivan711]

Thanks man. I just got back and read your reply. I reset the tps to right at .40volts and when I unhooked the MAF it allows me to at least rev up a little better b ut it can't idle yet. With the MAF sensor plugged in it was giving reading up to 30 which is way tooooo much for idle!! So I'll pick up a new one to give it a whirl. The O2 numbers more around just fine and the BLM is almost always right at 128 +/- a few points. Tonight I'll try out the new MAF and have a buddy help me reset the cam sensor.

 

[sullivan711]

Hey guys... I have an update. Last night we reset the cam sensor and now it won't start well if at all. Then sensors are working fine and giving good values but the KV is down to 0.5 and that was tested using Snap-on's scope. The coil resistance turns out to be infinite (or off the scale for the perticular setting on the scope). Tomorrow morning, well later this morning I plan to try and find a coil and ignition module upgrade from the junk yard. I searched the pages to find out more info on how to rewire the existing plug on my car and the gnttype website is down. Anyone have the pages saved on their computer by chance? I would really like to read all I can about it.

Thanks for the help once again.