Which Head studs to use

[BOP4ever]

I see there are two listed one 12 point and the other is a pro series.
What is the difference ?
Using Stock style gaskets if that matters.

Thanks

 

[proptop]

Use the best studs that your budget allows. The 12 points would be easier to re-torque on the engine if your car still has the heater box. Remember to cycle the studs a few times so the final toeque is not affected by stretch.
Bob

 

[karolko]

can you please elaborate on what you said in regards to cycling the studs a couple of times...

Adrian

 

[S10xGN]

can you please elaborate on what you said in regards to cycling the studs a couple of times...

Adrian

This info is on ARP's site. You lube the nuts and washers, then torque-cycle them 5x's by torquing and then backing off. Each time you do this, you'll see the nut turn a bit further (and easier) as the pieces "bed" together.

 

[villain1]

never recycle the studs unless you want to change head gasket again ARP head bolt are the best for the price i got them on with cosimatic head gasket's cooper run 25psi still running good

 

[villain1]

arp bolt are only 38dollar that i remember for Jegs performance

 

[villain1]

just tork them to the spec no more then what it says

 

[villain1]

i don't know if you can recycle arp bolt but stock one no

 

[S10xGN]

never recycle the studs unless you want to change head gasket again ARP head bolt are the best for the price i got them on with cosimatic head gasket's cooper run 25psi still running good

Or use an old gasket to do it, but do it regardless. If you don't, you will be thinking you're getting xx foot pounds but in reality you might only get 50% of that value on the first torque cycle (or until the fasteners bed in together). Of course, if you don't believe me, just check with ARP. It's all there to be read if you're willing to learn...

 

[big reazon]

never recycle arp head studs?

 

[williamsGN]

never recycle arp head studs?

No, that is completely wrong, factory bolts were not reusable (TTY). Studs are.

 

[big reazon]

Thanks that what I had thought

 

[turbofabricator]

Yes......YES.......DO as stated with NEW studs. They MUST be cycled to get the proper torque value and corresponding clamping force. No need to change head gaskets, either, as you do not reach full torque value until you have "cycled" the nut/stud five times to set the "stretch". Do a little research before assembling anything.
So here is how I do it: Torque the heads down to full torque value in five steps following the proper sequence. I start at 40 ft./lbs, then 50, then 60, then 75, then let 'em sit for 10 minutes, then one at a time following proper sequence, I loosen the nut and then retorque to full value, then repeat five times. Then move to the next stud. And if you rally want to be "expert" let it sit for 10 minutes and go back and loosen each nut and retorque to full value one at a time. When redoing your head gaskets in the future (because you KNOW you're gonna) you do not need to cycle the studs. They have already been done. Be sure to use the suggested lube on both sides of the washer and the stud threads. Use you favorite thread sealer on the block side. (that is a open debate many times on here)
When using ARP head bolts, it's wouldn't hurt to follow the same process, though everytime you torque a bolt into cast iron you are "wearing the threads out". Though I have heard about this for 35 years I have never seen worn out threads in a cast iron block. Stripped, boogered.......yes, worn out....never. I suppose if you use a rattle gun and remove/replace the bolt a thousand times with out lube.......Ya, OK....that doesn't sound like a good idea.
This process is also true when using NEW ARP rod bolts, too. Use a stretch gauge for them, though. Do it in a vise.
This process costs nothing but time. Best to make sure it is done right the FIRST time.