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While installing new body bushings......

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PaulRV6

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
1,526
I am installing a set of stock replacement bushings that include the #5 gnx bushings. I realized I must have installed these years ago but one thing I did was the new ones in the kit were about 1/2" taller than the GM ones that were in there, so I ended up leaving the GM ones in. The other thing major thing I was concerned about was the location of the top hole in the body does not line up with the bottom hole. I pushed the bushing into the lower hole and the protruding tip of the bushing will just have to get flattened down against the body. The hole is off by about 1" meaning the entire body would have to go forward by that much but all the other holes line up real good. It must have been this way since I put them in cause the center locating stub is bent over. What do you think?

paul
 
No, the gm ones that are in there are not compressed or distorted. The p/n is not twisted and I still has the pink coloring on the bushing.
Paul
 
Is your body centered on the frame. When I did my body bushings, I spend a long time getting the rear centered and the radiator support square with the hood.
 
If the body wasn't centered it has probably been that way for the last 20 yrs and I never realized it being a problem. Even if I thought that the body was mis located I'm not sure I would be able to re-position it with the car being up on jackstands. Maybe if the car was on its tires you could support the entire body and roll it back but that seems like an incredible amount of work. Thanks

paul
 
Basically all the Turbo regals are not sitting on the frame straight even from new. GM was aware of this but never corrected it as they did not feel it was a major concern...I been told this years ago by several Buick people.

Also it has come to light way back when we did the very first 16 by 8 wheels distances in the back would vary.

So, if you are doing the body bushings that would be the time to get the body and the frame in perfect or near perfect alignment.

good luck

denniskirban@yahoo.com
 
It's pretty easy to do. Just look at the rear wheel tubs. They're right at the same width as the frame. Just shove the frame around with a lever. As long as the bolts aren't right it moves pretty easily. ESP if you used the anti-squeek jizz on the bushings. No need to get it off the jackstands to fine tune the body to frame alignment.

If you ever want to run really wide tires this step is very important.

Same thing with the radiator support. If the hood gap is good at the header panel yet the side gaps are tapered, it needs to be shifted a little. I just stuck a 1-1/4 wrench next to the frame and had enough mechanical advantage to make a pretty precision adjustment.
 
I ran into this mess! Found a guy out of Canada that makes the repair kit so looks to be a good time to narrow the frame rails as well!
rust1.jpg
rust2.jpg
 
My frame rail had the same exact rot. I welded in a washer. It was a piece of cake.
 
So this alignment can be done on jack stands? Will I have to use two floor jacks one on each side to raise the body some and try to move it around? Any specific places to jack against? Do I leave the bolts in but keep them loose? Sorry for all the questions but I want to be sure this can be done without causing more problems. Thanks
paul
 
I think I used the handle of a framing hammer to move my body around. When I moved the nose, I used a 1-1/4 wrench between the frame rail and the radiator support.

Moving the body around is easy peasy.
 
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