Who here has replaced their frame to body bushings?

"Turbo-T"

V6 on steroids
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
I'm considering doing mine but before I do I wanted to get an ideas of what kind of difference can I expect? Less squeaks and rattles? What about rounding corners...will the car feel more glued to the road even if the control arms all still have the stockers?
 
I don't know if I can tell you changing your bushings is going to make you TR feel like a formula 1 racer, but if you're going to keep the car for a while, it's just an upgrade you should do if you feel your present rubber bushings are shot.
 
Well John actually I was under my car doing something, looked up and was greeted by a cracked and splitting body mount bushing.

However IMO the car doesn't really drive bad, well maybe a little sloppy but probably because it also has the stock control arm bushings.
 
Well John actually I was under my car doing something, looked up and was greeted by a cracked and splitting body mount bushing.

However IMO the car doesn't really drive bad, well maybe a little sloppy but probably because it also has the stock control arm bushings.

Well, if your bushings are shot, then it would just be something to make your car better. It's bound to tighten it up. ;)
 
well kind of pain in the butt. just time consuming. Then hope you don't have any rusted out bushing holes :eek::cool:
 
It will tighten it up, the poly's even more. I haven't done alot of street driving since I changed mine to poly's, but there is a definite difference. Not the easiest task in the world, remember to coax those body bolts out, not exactly the easist fix if you break them.
 
Yeah that has me wondering how much of a PITA it is to replace them and if a lift of some sorts will be required to get the body just enough off of the frame to do the swap.

Also is it common for the body bolts to break?
 
I dont know how bad your's are, but some of mine were literally missing in the rear of the car. Over large bumps the body would actually bang against the frame.

I replaced them with the poly bushings and what a difference. Car is super tight now. Maybe too tight, I would go with stock rubber if I had to do it again. Install is a bitch, broke a few of the nuts from the body removing the bolts, had to tear up the floor, reweld new nuts in, then put the floor back in. If the car doesnt have much rust/low miles you should be ok. If nothing breaks on you, its not a bad job at all. Use an impact to get the bolts out if you can, less chance of breaking stuff.
 
Yeah that has me wondering how much of a PITA it is to replace them and if a lift of some sorts will be required to get the body just enough off of the frame to do the swap.

Also is it common for the body bolts to break?

Depends on the amount of rust in the car. Mine was from Buffalo and had flat out cancer. I only broke one, but was very careful. Luckily it was the back on and access was easy, just cut a hole in the trunk and there is was.

As far as lifting, takes about 4" clearance to change them out. best to have everything that connects like steering, brake/fuel lines, ect.. unhooked. I used two floor jacks and some assorted lumber including 4x4's to rest the between body and frame once separated.

It's also a good time to go ahead and address any hard to reach rust spots or cleaning that needs to be done. Go ahead and get everything done you can while you have the body and frame separated. Not a job you want to do twice.

Oh yeah, above post is correct, might want to think about replacing with original rubber bushings if a stock like ride feel is what you are going for.
 
If you do it, I'd say pass on the rubber bushings. I didn't feel any significant difference other than the car felt tighter upon replacing with the poly bushings. What you can do is go around and see how much rust you have. Try to break loose the bolts without going crazy. If you have signicant rust in the frame, it's really a pain in the ass. I don't even know how guys with northern cars can even do the job without being able to weld in sections that will rip out.
 
Let me ask this...The bolts that run thru the bushings....are the heads attached to the car's body itself? Is that the issue in breaking one or cutting away the floor pan if one is broken?
 
Im not sure but i think its the nuts that are attached to the body that rip out when trying to remove the bolts and the and the bolts run thru the frame and thru the bushing...
 
The retaining nuts are trapped in a cage inside the frame. As you turn to remove, the nut locks inside this cage so you can continue to remove the bolt. The bolt can be rusted solid to the "nut" and it can break out of the cage and then the whole thing spins, or another scenario is ripping out part of the cage. Then what you have to do is go in through the top to access the whole mess and then repair the damage. If you think you have rusted in nuts and bolts, you can drill a hole over the retaining nut and saturate it with penetrating oil before you start breaking them loose.
 
Thanks John for the clarification. I see how tricky and intensive this can be.

Pretty sure my car is an NC car but it does have surface rust on the frame so I'd definitely do the WD-40 thing before hand. But I again appreciate the clarification.
 
I would buy new bolts while you are at it.

Also, I put blocks of wood between the frame and body just in case the jackstand slipped - no reason to crush a hand or finger doing this.
 
Thanks John for the clarification. I see how tricky and intensive this can be.

Pretty sure my car is an NC car but it does have surface rust on the frame so I'd definitely do the WD-40 thing before hand. But I again appreciate the clarification.

My Red car was a Florida car. I had no problems with it but I did attempt to do a car I owned that apparently was from the North somewhere. I ripped out a big chunk of the body under the back seat trying to get one of the fasteners loose. With that, I understood, some cars aren't worth bothering with. I quit and sold the POS.

 
Id saturate them with PB blaster atleast 2-3 times a weeks for about 2-3 weeks prior to replacement - also use a torch if available and heat the bolt up CHERRY RED this will help too - ask me how I know :) I just had to open up to holes in my truck to remove to broken bolts...
 
My bolts were quite easy...but my car has been in SoCal for 20 of its years. :)

I did poly bushings and wish I'd done stock replacement rubber. Too harsh.
 
Become best friends with your local body shop owner. I took mine to a body shop where he had the power tools, lift, and 30 years of experience. :)That's my .02 cents. Make sure you loosen the rear bumper or you will break your bumper fillers. Also, many folks suggest adding bushings where the factory left them out. If you add these missing bushings, your car will ride firmer. You might actually like the soft mushy ride better. Plus it is less work if you don't replace those bushings. One last thing- I broke the rusty fuel line when the body separated from the frame. So keep an eye on that.
 
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