Who restalls 9/11 or 10/12 converters?

[Firechicken]

I have a custom made 10/12 converter which I need to have restalled. Who does this and is the best? (hopefully at a reasonable cost)

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

Pat's converters.

 

[49-blues]

I second that.

 

[Firechicken]

Thanks guys.

I sent them an email, and they told me that assuming no internal damage in the converter, it would be between $150 and $225, depending on what had to be done, to lower the stall. Seems reasonable.

I also emailed PTC in Alabama, who have a huge reputation in the racing community as well, and they too quoted "around $150".

I hate decisions. lol

 

[Firechicken]

Well, I decided to send it to PTC. It came down to the numbers. A couple of votes for Pat's, but a googling Kenny Ford, the main man at PTC, came up with hundreds of positives. In fact I couldn't find any negative posts at all.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[broke1]

Well, I decided to send it to PTC. It came down to the numbers. A couple of votes for Pat's, but a googling Kenny Ford, the main man at PTC, came up with hundreds of positives. In fact I couldn't find any negative posts at all.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

I wouldnt go as far as to say theres nothing negative out there but they do build nice convertors for nitrous cars....

I think Dusty Bradford is running one in his turbo SBC.

 

[1ARUNEM]

Kenny is a great guy. I have run MANY PTC convertors and there are currently PTC convertors in three cars I race (69 camaro tube car, sbc powered toyota truck, 82 malibu wagon) plus my street car.

Kenny just did a convertor for one car and missed the stall a little, I sent it back and in a couple days he had it back to me and it worked great..

 

[Firechicken]

Well, here are the pics of the internals of the converter I sent to PTC. Needless to say, they built me a new converter. This one is junk.

hey explained to me that the welds on the fins are a joke, the bent fin and the ballooned turbine is a joke and the clutch apply piston is a joke too. The apply piston is missing a spring, 2 arms and the two that are there are all cut up for whatever reason.

 

[Firechicken]

Until they send me the pics of the insides of my converter, here is a pic of a YANK turbine for comparison.

 

[Intercooler]

What brand converter is that?

 

[Firechicken]

It isn't a brand name converter. It is a converter that a friend had made locally and when he bought his new trans which came with a free converter from Art Carr, he gave the old one to me. I tried it in my car and it was loose as oh hell. It would flash over 5000 and foot brake to 4500. On the street it would slip like crazy and the trans would run HOT.

 

[WSLN 6]

What were you running for times with that converter? What combo, and what were the symptoms?

 

[Firechicken]

The car I was using it in is a 1980 Firebird, .030 over 455 (462ci) Pontiac, 10.5;1 compression, Comp Hydraulic roller 288HR, 3.42 gear and 26.8 tall tires. The engine makes close to 500 HP and 600 ft/lbs and the car, without driver, is about 3900 lbs. Of course I am using my 2004r which I built myself using Chris' manual.

I haven't had a chance to go to the track using this motor, let alone the converter, as the car is really just a street car which I like to flog it every now and again. I estimate it should easily be in the 12's somewhere.

For the street the converter was really slushy and would slip quite a bit at part throttle. The enigine would make lots of noise, but the car would barely move. Because of this ineffciency at part throttle, just city driving, the trans would run much hotter than normal.

Foot braking it to 4500 was ridiculous, as I shift it at 5500, and is a huge loss of power as this cam starts building power around 3000 rpm. The less than 1000 rpm this converter was creating was too small of a window for my combo, and is why I wanted it restalled.

 

[WSLN 6]

Did your rpm drop on shifts at all?