You can type here any text you want

Will ethanol work in our cars?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Little6pack

Active Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2002
Messages
11,676
I had the T today & figured on topping off the tank before Super goes over $2.90 After I was done I noticed the pump mentioning contains ETHANOL.. I did not think we had E in this part of the country.

Will it work OK with our cars
 
Little6pack said:
I had the T today & figured on topping off the tank before Super goes over $2.90 After I was done I noticed the pump mentioning contains ETHANOL.. I did not think we had E in this part of the country.

Will it work OK with our cars

Yeah it'll be just fine. I think it's legal to use up to a 10% blend of ethanol in unleaded gasoline. Most stations have started to switch to it instead of other chemical blends. It's a cheap way to increase the octane on the fuel.
 
If it stated "E85" then it is 85 percent ethanol and 15 percent gasoline. Straight ethanol is 105 octane and the TR's will love it, or any other carfor that matter.

I've alread built a still to brew my own ethanol, I just haven't had the time to get the fermenting process started. It'a actually pretty easy to make too. There are several internet sites that shows how to build a still as well as brewing the ethanol.

I suppose the best part of brewing your own fuel is if you have any left when filling your tank up you can drink it...nothin' goes to waste.

One last tidbit...if you live in a rural part of your county you can legally brew the stuff by applying to the ATF for a permint.


HOW
 
HellOnWheels said:
If it stated "E85" then it is 85 percent ethanol and 15 percent gasoline. Straight ethanol is 105 octane and the TR's will love it, or any other carfor that matter.

I've alread built a still to brew my own ethanol, I just haven't had the time to get the fermenting process started. It'a actually pretty easy to make too. There are several internet sites that shows how to build a still as well as brewing the ethanol.

I suppose the best part of brewing your own fuel is if you have any left when filling your tank up you can drink it...nothin' goes to waste.

One last tidbit...if you live in a rural part of your county you can legally brew the stuff by applying to the ATF for a permint.


HOW

True but I wouldn't suggest using E100 in any car because it'll have a hard time starting during cool temperatures. I also wouldn't suggest running E85 in "any" car. Ethanol is much more corrosive than gasoline and will eat the rubber out of lines and gaskets. You can convert t a flex fuel vehicle using Ethanol compatible gaskets but typically is much more involved than what most people want to do.
 
My car is almost up and running and I have a station near me that is selling E85. I'm going to be trying this out and see what happens. With it's 105 octane rating there's no reason why I shouldn't see the same boost levels on it as I would with my alky kit. If that's the case you'll be seeing my alky kit up for sale really soon! And I don't have to worry about failing emissions! :eek:
 
You guy's got me wondering now. They got that E85 stuff up at the Gas City and was wondering if its ok to run. I did'nt know it was 105 oct. We are shooting alky anyway with the same carosive propertys. Whats the difference?
 
Rick87GN said:
You guy's got me wondering now. They got that E85 stuff up at the Gas City and was wondering if its ok to run. I did'nt know it was 105 oct. We are shooting alky anyway with the same carosive propertys. Whats the difference?

Yup Gas City is carrying it. That's where I saw it. Hell I think this stuff will be better than alky injection! I can't wait to try it!
 
Rick87GN said:
You guy's got me wondering now. They got that E85 stuff up at the Gas City and was wondering if its ok to run. I did'nt know it was 105 oct. We are shooting alky anyway with the same carosive propertys. Whats the difference?

Because everything in your alky injection system is alky compatible, and everything in an OEM gasoline system isn't???

strike
 
d0n_3d said:
Yup Gas City is carrying it. That's where I saw it. Hell I think this stuff will be better than alky injection! I can't wait to try it!


You think so? Your not woried about the fuel system seals? What would we replace the rubber seals with? Viton?
 
Rick87GN said:
You think so? Your not woried about the fuel system seals? What would we replace the rubber seals with? Viton?

DO NOT, REPEAT, DO NOT PUT E85 IN A CAR NOT INTENDED FOR IT.

strike
 
strikeeagle said:
Because everything in your alky injection system is alky compatible, and everything in an OEM gasoline system isn't???

strike

There is not a lot of o ring to change. What if they where all replaced?
How many are there and are they available?
 
Rick87GN said:
Please tell us what you know.

From Wikipedia:

E85 Ethanol is not all good, it can also do damage, like prolonged exposure to high concentrations of ethanol may corrode metal and rubber parts in older engines (pre-1988) designed primarily for gasoline. The hydroxyl group on the ethanol molecule is an extremely weak acid, but it can enhance corrosion for some natural materials. For post-1988 fuel-injected engines, all the components are already designed to accommodate E10 (10% ethanol) blends through the elimination of exposed magnesium and aluminium metals and natural rubber and cork gasketed parts. Hence, there is a greater degree of flexibility in just how much more ethanol may be added without causing ethanol-induced damage, varying by automobile manufacturer. Anhydrous ethanol in the absence of direct exposure to alkali metals and bases is non-corrosive; it is only when water is mixed with the ethanol that the mixture becomes corrosive to some metals. Hence, there is no appreciable difference in the corrosive properties between E10 and a 50:50 blend of E10 gasoline and E85 (47.5% ethanol), provided there is no water present, and the design was done to accommodate E10. Nonetheless, operation with more than 10% ethanol has never been recommended by car manufacturers in non-FFVs.

Operation on up to 20% ethanol is generally considered safe for all post 1988 cars and trucks. This equates to running a blend of 23.5% of E85. Starting in 2013[3], at least one US state (Minnesota) already has legislatively mandated and planned to force E20 (20% ethanol) into their general gasoline fuel-distribution network. Details of how this will work for individual vehicle owners while maintaining automobile manufacturer warranties, despite exceeding the manufacturer's maximum warranted operation percentage of 10% of ethanol in fuel, are still being worked as of late-2005. However, the choice of transitioning to a 20% ethanol blend of gasoline is not without precedent; Brazil, in its conversion to an ethanol-fueled economy, determined that operation with up to 22% ethanol in gasoline was safe for the cars and trucks then on the road in Brazil at the time, and the conversion to a 20% blend was accomplished with only minor issues arising for older vehicles. Recently, conversion to a 24% blend was accomplished in Brazil.

In addition to corrosion, there is also a risk of increased engine wear for non-FFV engines that are not specifically designed for operation on high levels (i.e., for greater than 10%) of ethanol. The risk primarily comes in the rare event that the E85 fuel ever becomes contaminated with water. For water levels below approximately 0.5% to 1.0% contained in the ethanol, no phase separation of gasoline and ethanol occurs. For contamination with 1% or more water in the ethanol, phase separation occurs, and the ethanol and water mixture will separate from the gasoline. This can be simply observed by pouring a mixture of suspected water-contaminated E85 fuel in a clear glass tube, waiting roughly 30 minutes for the separation to occur (if it does), and then inspecting the sample. If there is water contamination of above 1% water in the ethanol, a clear separation of alcohol (with water) and gasoline will be clearly visible, with the colored gasoline floating above the clear alcohol and water mixture.

For a badly-contaminated amount of water in the ethanol and water mixture that separates from the gasoline (i.e., approximately 11% water, 89% ethanol, equivalent to 178 proof alcohol), considerable engine wear will occur, especially during times while the engine is heating up to normal operating temperatures, as for example just after starting the engine, when low temperature partial combustion of the water-contaminated ethanol mixture is taking place. This wear, caused by water-contaminated E85, is the result of the combustion process of ethanol, water, and gasoline producing considerable amounts of formic acid (HCOOH, also known as methanoic acid, and sometimes written as CH2O2).

In addition to the production of formic acid occurring for water-contaminated E85, smaller amounts of acetaldehyde (CH3CHO) and acetic acid (C2H4O2) are also formed for water-contaminated ethanol combustion. Nonetheless, it is the formic acid that is responsible for the majority of the rapid increase in engine wear.

Engines specifically designed for FFVs employ soft nitride coatings on their internal metal parts to provide formic acid wear resistance in the event of water contamination of E85 fuel. Also, the use of lubricant oil (motor oil) containing an acid neutralizer is necessary to prevent the damage of oil-lubricated engine parts in the event of water contamination of fuel. Such lubricant oil is required by at least one manufacturer of FFVs even to this day (Chrysler).

For non-FFVs burning E85 in greater than 23.5% E85 mixtures (20% ethanol), the remedy for accidentally getting a tank of water-contaminated E85 (or gasoline) while preventing excessive engine wear is to change the motor oil as soon as possible after either burning the fuel and replacing it with non-contaminated fuel, or after immediately draining and replacing the water-contaminated fuel. The risk of burning slightly water-contaminated fuel with low percentages of water (less than 1%) on a long commute is minimal; after all, it is the low temperature combustion of water contaminated ethanol and gasoline that causes the bulk of the formic acid to form; burning a slightly-contaminated mix of water (less than 1%) and ethanol quickly, in one long commute, will not likely cause any appreciable engine wear past the first 15 miles of driving, especially once the engine warms up and high temperature combustion occurs exclusively.

For those making their own E85, the risk of introducing water unintentionally into their homemade fuel is relatively high unless adequate safety precautions and quality control procedures are taken. Ethanol and water form an azeotrope such that it is impossible to distill ethanol to higher than 95.6% ethanol purity by weight (roughly 190 proof), regardless of how many times distillation is repeated. Unfortunately, this proof ethanol contains too much water to prevent separation of a mixture of such proof ethanol with gasoline, or to prevent the formation of formic acid during low temperature combustion. Therefore, when making E85, it becomes necessary to remove this residual water. It is possible to break the ethanol and water azeotrope through adding benzene or another hydrocarbon prior to a final rectifying distillation. This takes another distillation (energy consuming) step. However, it is possible to remove the residual water more easily, using 3 angstrom (3A) synthetic zeolite pellets to adsorb the water from the mix of ethanol and water, prior to mixing the now anhydrous ethanol with gasoline in an 85% to 15% by volume mixture to make E85. This absorption process is also known as a molecular sieve. The benefit of using synthetic zeolite pellets is that they are essentially comparable to using a catalyst, in being infinitely reusable and in not being consumed in the process, and the pellets require only re-heating (perhaps on a backyard grill, in a solar reflector furnace, or with heated carbon dioxide gas collected and saved from the fermentation process) to drive off the water molecules adsorbed into the zeolite. Research has also been done at Purdue University on using corn grits as a dessicant. [4] Once the ground corn becomes water logged, the corn grits can be processed much as the zeolite pellets, at least for a number of drying cycles before the grits lose their effectiveness. Once this occurs, it is possible to run the now water-logged corn grits through the natural fermentation process and convert them into even more ethanol fuel.

Running a non-FFV with too high of a percentage of ethanol will also cause a lean air fuel mixture. A lean mixture, if allowed to persist over considerable periods of time, will cause overheating of pistons and will eventually cause engine damage. It will also cause premature catalytic converter failure. This is also why the check engine light will illuminate if you mix more than around 50% to 60% E85 by volume with your gasoline in a non-FFV. If this happens, just add more 87 octane regular grade gasoline as soon as possible to correct the problem. (Some premium blends contain up to 10% ethanol; to correct the problem as quickly as possible, always add regular grade gasoline, not premium grade gasoline.) These lean mixture problems will not happen in a properly-converted vehicle.

strike
 
Well I guess that sums it up. Accept for one thing. 90% of us shoot alcohol.
From what I gathered, We are doing the same damage with the acception of the fuel system. No?
 
I think Razor would be more qualified to respond to the effects of injecting methanol using one of his systems, but I believe I read that he was satisfied based on his experiences over a few years and many, many cars that there are no ill effects. I suppose that spraying a fine stream of methanol into the bulk charge air now and then is rather a different condition than running E85 as a primary fuel continuously.

strike
 
From everything I have read, real world results of high ethanol concentrations in fuel systems like ours have immeasurable effects to the fuel system.

I want to know if the nay sayers have actually tried it or are just repeating the cons which are more closely related to METHANOL rather than Ethanol.

Methanol is rather corrosive, ethanol not so much at all.

There are plenty of forum threads about guys running E85 in non e85 vehicles if you look around.


to reiterate

METHANOL
and ETHANOL

are two DIFFERENT fuels
Methanol is more corrosive than Ethanol by far
 
OK I found out that the ethanol was just a replacement for MBTE because NH had some deal with EPA to use MBTE then they found it was polluting the water supplies.

We also have NO EMMISSIONS testing YET in New Hampshire. I am sure that will change with the influx of NY,NJ, MASS & Mexicans moving up here. You know how those liberal Demogogs want everything at someone elses expense.
 
Pablo said:
From everything I have read, real world results of high ethanol concentrations in fuel systems like ours have immeasurable effects to the fuel system.

I want to know if the nay sayers have actually tried it or are just repeating the cons which are more closely related to METHANOL rather than Ethanol.

Methanol is rather corrosive, ethanol not so much at all.

There are plenty of forum threads about guys running E85 in non e85 vehicles if you look around.


to reiterate

METHANOL
and ETHANOL

are two DIFFERENT fuels
Methanol is more corrosive than Ethanol by far

Your are correct Pablo, there many a farm truck/car/tractor that runs straight ethanol with little to NO adverse affect. Several members of some of the ethanol forums are running straight ethanol in newer cars/truck also without harmful effects.

I'll be letting everyone know soon how the ethanol will affect the fuel delivery system in the TR's.

I have access to several acres of farm land to grow just about anything that will produce the best bang for the buck in ethanol making. I've recently retired and actually plan to sell the ethanol to the public that is if the ATF boys will okay. When selling to the public I'll have to collect road tax and some state/local taxes, but heck at this point I'll be able to make the ethanol for around $1.50 to $2.00 per gallon.

HOW
 
Well, there you have it, from the "experts". So go ahead, throw it in, see what happens...

strike

:cool:
 
Back
Top