Wiped EVERYTHING...

SITHV6

Move against the Jedi 1st
Joined
Sep 21, 2002
OK...heres what happened...during rebuild come to find out my timing cover was cracked, so i used a spare factory one that was pretty old (original) yeah i know, DUMB. So not long later I get that tapping sound of death and lo' and behold...the oil pump had failed, guess it was the warped timing cover seizing the pump gears. Removed the intake and found all but 4 lifters spooned and wiped! NOT pretty! Only safe to assume the PTE 218/224 tappet is history huh? heheh. Well...I ordered a new Gbodyparts HV timing cover and it had a hairline casting crack that seeped oil, no biggie right? Now it seems HV covers are on back order and I need a new cover ASAP. I have a brand new stock cover from a dealership down here. Sooooo WHO STILL SELLS A Kenne Bell style Booster Plate? Or better yet...Who Eles Supplies the HV timing covers? Oh Also found out PTE doesnt sell their 218/224 tappets anymore...when it rains it pours. Any good things to say about the Revolution X series cams?
 
The cam failure and the cracked cover may not be related. Id look into this a lot more to be sure you have all areas covered before firing it once you get it together again. Fwiw i never ran a booster plate or HV gears on anything ive had in the last 10 years and never had a bearing problem. I feel HV gears cause a new set of problems in cold weather because they try to move too much oil.
 
The cam failure and the cracked cover may not be related. Id look into this a lot more to be sure you have all areas covered before firing it once you get it together again. Fwiw i never ran a booster plate or HV gears on anything ive had in the last 10 years and never had a bearing problem. I feel HV gears cause a new set of problems in cold weather because they try to move too much oil.

Cracked cover was from last mechanic i fired when he DROPPED my motor from a few FEET from a forklift! COLD Weather? in MIAMI???? ummmmmmm....
 
Cracked cover was from last mechanic i fired when he DROPPED my motor from a few FEET from a forklift! COLD Weather? in MIAMI???? ummmmmmm....
Lol. I didnt even look at your location. But even on a cool 50 degree night if the oil is cold the pressure will be very high. You still need to figure out why the cam failed.
 
I have a Revolution XR4 220-224 roller cam from Full Throttle for sale if you need one. It's new.....never been used. It's listed in the parts for sale section.
 
You can go to Oreilly's or almost any parts store that sells melling oil products to buy a high volume kit. it will come with tall oil pump gears and a spacer plate. You can also order a "wear" plate that is the same as the booster plate from Kenne belle, but in cast iron instead of aluminum.

You shouldn't have had a problem reusing your stock cover, unless a motor has blown and bearing material put grooves into it.
 
hope i got it right...

Original timing cover was warped and groved all right... when my mechanic got the new factory one it came without gears or anything, so i ordered a oil pump rebuild kit AND an oil booster plate from Postons hoping it will give me a decent safety net oil wise. My original Kenne Bell blue booster plate got misplaced.
 
I have 1 "NEW" still in box 214-224 flat tapped camshaft for sale.I bought 4 of these camshafts for customers engines I built.I've had good luck using 15/40w shell rotella with no valvetrain problems its the only oil I know for sure that still has zinc.
 
Royal Purple bad for tappets?

Type of oil you were probably using. Today's oil has no more or very little zinc additive for the flat tappet cams.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Was using Royal Purple 10w30 ... Does Royal Purple have the ingredients to help keep flat tappets alive? Should the car see ONLY Mobil 1 ? =P.
 
Was using Royal Purple 10w30 ... Does Royal Purple have the ingredients to help keep flat tappets alive? Should the car see ONLY Mobil 1 ? =P.

Verify your spring pressures. I actually use a pair of worn out stock springs for the break in then switch to a set that has around 100 lbs on the seat + or -5. Use a container of GM EOS on the break in with Rotella oil. Use 1/2 container of EOS on every oil change. Mobil 1 does not have a zinc additive so EOS is a must with it. I dont know about Royal Purple but wouldnt run without at least 1/2 container of EOS. I have never had a cam failure attributed to break in. You want to eliminiate as many risk factors as possible on break in. The break in with weak springs is very important for longevity imo.
 
GN1 spring too brutal?

Verify your spring pressures. I actually use a pair of worn out stock springs for the break in then switch to a set that has around 100 lbs on the seat + or -5. Use a container of GM EOS on the break in with Rotella oil. Use 1/2 container of EOS on every oil change. Mobil 1 does not have a zinc additive so EOS is a must with it. I dont know about Royal Purple but wouldnt run without at least 1/2 container of EOS. I have never had a cam failure attributed to break in. You want to eliminiate as many risk factors as possible on break in. The break in with weak springs is very important for longevity imo.
I'm still using my GN1 heads and their spring pressures are rated at 110#s or so arent they? that too much? I have a set of my original factory heads laying around...should i use those springs?
 
I'm still using my GN1 heads and their spring pressures are rated at 110#s or so arent they? that too much? I have a set of my original factory heads laying around...should i use those springs?
110 is a little on the high side for break in imo. You want to eliminate that risk factor. Changing springs is cheap insurance. Id use a stock set. I actually have a set with no dampers that is really weak. The lifters spin very fast right away on start up so i know i will have a decent cam life even though i hardly ever use flat cams anymore. Then i switch to a good set after break in.
 
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