Search results

Looking for a nice condition aluminum radiator core support shipped to 06784 or if a forklift is needed for delivery 10549.

From what I understand the pro has a stiffer sidewall than the regular et street radial, designed primarily for very fast radial cars. Not certain how the s/s differs from either other than the obvious increase in tread void area.

You can only run as much boost as the weakest cylinder will allow. Even if the plate by itself cost you a few hp as is, the ability to increase the boost by evening out the air distribution will more than make up for it. Cars much faster than mine run them with good success so clearly it isn't...

I had a 6157bb with a stock converter for a bit and I thought it was a decent match, it would be a bit better with a slightly looser converter but it depends on your tolerance for lag and what tires you use. With supporting bolt ons set on kill 10's are possible.

I don't see a fuel pump listed on your car but that should really be done especially if you plan on increasing the boost. Boost alone isn't a good measure of determining the converter stall. You should look at the RPM's through the trap which will tell you more.

If they have a little surface rust look them over extremely carefully, if they've developed ANY pitting that is where they'll break.

I had a lockrite in my big bronco and currently have had one in my jeep for ~80,000 miles with no issues. Although the jeep and bronco are both heavy, they're low powered and I've been careful with the throttle to not shock the diff as that will definately break it. There is a certain amount...

People have gone into the high 10's with stock long blocks but that's about the limit and requires hero amounts of boost to do it. Unless money is super tight I see no reason to not get the best heads you can, it will only make your goals easier to achieve and do it at less boost.

I run my car like that and I dont think it really matters what the construction is if you have skinnies up front.

Amsoil AMO in 10-40 is a "racing" oil that has a higher level of zinc, I run it in my car.

Handling is going to be laughable afterwords but you'll save a little weight up front and free up the front suspension slightly. Removing the front sway bar only makes sense to me if you're combining that with skinnies/light wheels etc. On a street car with fullsize tires it's probably not a...

I've been very happy dealing with Brian and his transmission in my car. If I ever need any trans work in the future it'll be with Brian.

It's not considered ideal but countless people including myself have done it.

The kit installs very easily, the most time consuming part for me was deciding where and how I was going to mount the control boxes. The only thing I would recommend would be to read the instructions several times through before you start turning wrenches. Alcohol has got to be the single best...

Other than boost adjustability, the real function of the controller is to improve the spool up time ONCE you've already started making boost rather than allowing the wastegate to slowly bleed off exhaust pressure as the turbo is building boost. The stock turbo comes up on boost quite fast as...

On my old mustang and current jeep I use brembo solid rotors and hawk hps pads. Both cars stopped predictably with good bite but take a stop or two to really work optimally.

I have 275/60 mickey thompson dr's in the back and 26x4.5 bias sportsman's up front AND no front sway bar. I don't have any instability issues and drive the car on the highway at 70mph, through the hills around me etc. With a front tire as skinny as this I don't think it really matters what...

I put an rjc crank pulley on my car and it's quite a bit lighter than the stocker. Every little bit of weight helps especially rotating weight, but it's one of those things worth purchasing if you have money to burn or have already tapped out other avenues for speed. If you're in new milford...

Stock d5's have gone atleast mid 11's and I know some freaks have gone quicker than that. Going ballbearing allows you alot more freedom in turbo selection as far as the stock converter is concerned. Any ballbearing turbo 61mm or smaller will spool up well with a stock converter and a stock...

I've been using the amsoil AMO in my car for almost two years now without adding zddp or anything else. So far so good :confused: